Author Topic: Official MTB thread  (Read 114542 times)

Offline murraymint

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #70 on: 13 January 2012, 00:06 »
Hy guys, I've got a kona scab, can't remember the forks make but good travel, what rear cassette would you put on, tempted to single speed it tbh as I usually prefer them that way?
Btw, it is a scab, not a stab, I got it off an old e gland velodrome coach who had it as a prototype I beleive?
Will get some pics up tomoz!

Sounds interesting, looks forward to the pics
josh


95 Mk3 golf 1.6 CL, 96 Mk3 golf gti 16v, 89 Mk2 Jetta GL97 Mk3 golf gti 16v, 99 bora 2ltr se, 83 mk1 golf 1.1, 15 polo 1.2 tsi

Offline rob.043

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Re: New toy!!! (mbk related)
« Reply #71 on: 13 January 2012, 10:08 »
That's good, I hate full suspension bikes!

Lock out rear shock FTW :cool: Climbs nice and is great going back down

What rear shock do you have? Mine doesnt seem to fully lock out still giving around 20mm of travel and if I hit it hard even more. It also looks a tad oily. Does this look ok to you? This is after my ride having switched from lockout to short and long travel all through the ride.



fox shox's dont 'lock out', the system only stiffens the shock to reduce bedal bob. so expect it still to move. given that the rubber ring isnt pushed right down on the stanchion- your not getting full travel, so run a bit less air to get it maxed out and get the full benefit. or leave it stiffer for better climbing if thats your preference.

Fox shocks always weep a bit of oil, its nothing to worry about too much, but it does mean that their super short service intervals need to be kept to, in order to maintain optimum performance. see your users manual. removing the air can is simple enough to clean out and replace that lubricating oil

Offline Sam

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #72 on: 13 January 2012, 11:01 »
Anyone reckon I could build myself anything half decent for about £250?

No not really, you will be best buying a complete 2nd hand bike.  :smiley: just think about all the sh!t you will need.

Frame
Bearings
Wheelset
Tyres
Tubes
Chain
Crankset
Pedals
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur
Cables
Front Brakes
Rear Brakes
Stem
Seatpost
Bars
Grips
Bar Ends
Seat
Forks

Even then Im sure there are a couple of bits I have missed, this works out that on average you will spend £13 per part to stick to budget. Forks will be £60 at least and a good frame will set you back £80 at least and wheelsets are always a kick in the nads.
« Last Edit: 13 January 2012, 11:08 by Sam »


The entire world is a Money Pit, you just have to pick yours.

Offline bobbarley

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #73 on: 13 January 2012, 11:46 »
Lol ok point taken, just have to keep my eyes peeled in that case.  Just thought it might be a good way to build up a bike, buying a couple of bits every month until I have everything  :smiley:

Offline R32UK

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #74 on: 13 January 2012, 11:51 »
buy a cheapish bike and then put a little money to the side as you go along... that way you can replace parts as and when you need.

That was my idea anyway... problem is i dont know much about parts... or bikes for that matter  :grin:

WOuld be very interested in hearing which parts of my bike are not so good/ I could replace with better bits..  :undecided:

FRAME Specialized M4 fully manipulated alloy frame, fully butted, ORE DT, asymmetrical seat stays, forged dropouts w/ replaceable derailleur hanger, disc only
 
FORK RockShox Recon SLite, 80/100mm, 1 piece magnesium lower, alloy steerer, 32mm alloy stanchions, coil spring, preload and rebound adj. w/ LO
 
HEADSET 1-1/8" threadless, Campy style semi-cartridge bearings
 
STEM 3D forged alloy, reverse 4-bolt, 7 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp
 
HANDLEBARS Butted alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 660mm wide, 8 degree back sweep, 7 degree up sweep
 
GRIPS Specialized Enduro, dual compound Kraton, no flange, 131mm
 
FRONT BRAKE Avid Elixir 4 hydraulic disc, alloy backed organic pads, 160mm G3 Clean Sweep rotor
 
REAR BRAKE Avid Elixir 4 hydraulic disc, alloy backed organic pads, 160mm G3 Clean Sweep rotor
 
BRAKE LEVERS Avid Elixir 4
 
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Deore, 34.9mm clamp, top swing, bottom pull
 
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano RD-M772 Deore XT Shadow, long cage
 
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano SL-M531 Deore trigger
 
CASSETTE Shimano HG50, 9-speed, 11-34t
 
CHAIN KMC X9 w/ reuseable Missing Link
 
CRANKSET Shimano FC-M521, Hollowtech, Octalink spline
 
CHAINRINGS 44A x 32S x 22S replaceable
 
BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm
 
PEDALS Alloy body and cage, 9/16"
 
RIMS DT-Swiss 445D, 26", alloy double wall disc, pin joint, eyelets, 28h front and 32h rear
 
FRONT HUB Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, 28h
 
REAR HUB Forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, cassette, 32h
 
SPOKES 2mm (14g) stainless


p.s. I am always looking for ways to waste money.. so any help would be appreciated  :grin:


Offline murraymint

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #75 on: 13 January 2012, 21:25 »
If your looking to upgrade id say start by upgrading your drivetrain and maybe new forks?
josh


95 Mk3 golf 1.6 CL, 96 Mk3 golf gti 16v, 89 Mk2 Jetta GL97 Mk3 golf gti 16v, 99 bora 2ltr se, 83 mk1 golf 1.1, 15 polo 1.2 tsi

Offline thai-wronghorse

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #76 on: 13 January 2012, 21:48 »
Yeah forks and pedals would be next for upgrade if it was mine.

Offline R32UK

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #77 on: 14 January 2012, 08:19 »
Are my forks no good??  :huh:

Just seen the price on some new rockshok forks  :shocked:

Offline thai-wronghorse

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #78 on: 14 January 2012, 08:57 »
They're not particularly bad forks, its just that if you're after improving your bike the suspension is always a good component to upgrade and these ones are very middle of the road. (im not a big fan of Rock Shox either, but that's just my personal preference) I've always liked Marzocchi or Fox myself.

Offline dTEA

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Re: Official MTB thread
« Reply #79 on: 14 January 2012, 09:46 »
nowt wrong with the shocks....depending on how serious you are....100mm travel is okay...if you want to do bug stuff then 150mm travel can be had for reasonable money...

no-one mentioning yeti frames??

Edition 30 / T5 T32 Kombi