G60 Losing power

[monzablue16v]

It will do I just know the blue temp sensor is a common 8v complaint for sh!t running for the few quid they cost from VW it's worth a punt

[993turbo]

Blue temp sensor changed for a vag one yet?

Been checking on the the Temp sensor. One thing is for sure, when I unplug the sensor, the engine nearly stops....

Any way to check the Temp Sensor..........?

[clipperjay]

Yes the blue temp sensor unpluged will make the car feel like its about to stall if there is no changed in idle the blue temp is at fault!
Are you sure the car is not running on safety mode everything checks out except no power when the car goes into safe mode the ECU is reading two sensor faults or the ECU is at fault!
I haven't read the whole thread, but if idle is fine and its just got no power its usually the ECU or dizzy hall sender messing with timing of the spark and fuel.
What colour is your plugs lean or rich?
 
Ok just reading some posts on your thread, if disconecting the Lambda made no difference the Lambda is your number one dud sensor is should have driven worse unconnected! which explains two sensors have gone down and the the ECU is in safe mode. You need to cure that first, then restart all other possible faults again!

[993turbo]

The color of the plugs indicate rich........

You mention the ''dizzy hall sender'', what are we looking at here and how can I check it?

[rubjonny]

the sensor only costs £13 from the dealer, its not really worth messing about if you suspect it might be a problem.

[clipperjay]

The color of the plugs indicate rich........

You mention the ''dizzy hall sender'', what are we looking at here and how can I check it?

Yes rich is safe mapp for the ECU so it doesn't lean out and melt a piston!
But like Rub Johnny said for £13 change out the blue temp sensor, but you will notice a drop in revs right away if working correctly when unplugged from idle! IF NO CHANGE in idle GET A NEW ONE!
Hall sender is the body of the ignition system the phat bit that connects to a crank shaft and the distributor rotor & cap. The Hall sender signals for correct spark timing as your main crank moves in time with the cams and valves so your have a efficient combustion.
Second hand hall senders are about £50-£80 depends where you get one might get one on Egay for £25-£35.
No real way of testing hall senders unless you know the frequency of the signal and compare a regular oscillations and a broken one? 
Do cheap things first as why its in safe mode:
Lambda: check unplug report back
Blue temp: Which would f**k your idle up at warm, but sounds like you have decent idle from previous posts
ECU/Hall sender/coil/ Plugs and HT leads/rotor & Dizzy cap cost from expensive to cheap.
So come back and report what are the symptoms on the above?
Jay

P.S check all earths for corrosion from ECU and extra Ground cable to gear box it doesn't hurt to re-ground the earths could have cause part failure in the first place!
Essential that all boost pipes have no leaks others wise no point so that 1meter pipe to the ECU must be bang on!

 

[993turbo]

Thanks, good info... 

Will check and write up a summary.

[993turbo]

the sensor only costs £13 from the dealer, its not really worth messing about if you suspect it might be a problem.

Changed, no difference.

[993turbo]

Ok, here is the summary of what has been done so far. My 90' G60 is losing power. The best way to describe it is like its the car is powered by a 30 hp engine. It does not rev up (max 3500 rpms or so), and it cannot handle uphills at all.

Symptoms:

No misfire, No overheating, No strange sounds, No uneven running, it just lack the power / torque.....The car idles perfectly and starts perfectly.

What has been checked:

-The obvious vaccuum leak locations around the intake and hoses to from G-lader - intercooler - intake.
-Airfilter is new
-Fuel Filter is new
-Fuel Pump is new
-Hose between Intake - ECU is new and exact 1m and correct dia.
-Blue Temp sender is new
-Coil is good
-The spark plugs have been checked they look very good, not wet, but seems like it runs a bit rich. Rotor and dizzy cap looks good.
-Full opening on the throttle body is achieved when fully depressing the gas pedal.
-ECU relay is working fine (relay 30)
-Tried disconnecting the Lambda sensor but no difference
-Checked virtually all connectors in the whole engine bay and sprayed with El spray.....
-Boost pressure is fine
-No oil in intake or hoses

Not checked:

-HT leads
-Dizzy hall sender
-ECU???
-Lambda sensor
-Lamda Relay
-Earth points

 
 
 
 

[clipperjay]

This is the hall sender unit with the jack plug. Its too much effort to strip a distributor down just to change this part, so its best to buy it with the drive shaft not in this picture, but Google an image I'm sure you will understand.
My money is the Hall sender mate, but I think you need to get out of safe mode to determine what’s happening?
1) First thing I would do is borrow an ECU and iron out anything the ECU is doing wrong.
2) if its still doing the same no power your ECU is proberly fine.
3) Change the Hall sender distributor and re test if there is anything different.
4) If power is back and still stinks of fuel afterwards or still running rich bad MPG change the Lambda because the Lambda is only active at part throttle and idle not WOT.
5) Check your WOT switches its on the throttle body two of them, one for idle and one for WOT. You can check them by pulling the throttle cable back and forth and you can see metal arms hitting the micro switches. Push them by hand and listen for the click sounds.
6) When the car is running just run your hand along the HT leads if you feel no pain they should be ok but before I even attempt the above I would have just unplugged each spark plug and arc it against the rocker cover to check the spark its academic because you have ruled out any misfire and bad idle!
7) Two major earth points one is the ECU to the block on the right check for green oxidisation and furring clean them up they spike sensors and ECU's can cause issues. The on there one is the major ground to your battery just hook another one to the gear box Bolt you can just buy a braided one and bolt it anywhere there is large metal frame/chassis areas.
 
That should keep you busy fella just PM me or ask Rubjonny he is a good lad and can help with specifics as I'm not always around the forum these days!


Jay