Hi TT,
Thanks for the info and your thoughts on the clutchpack. 
Your welcome.
A few answers for you TT
Yes, I am getting clutch slip from the off, but only on hard starts, if I set of normally or even on three quarters throttle then there is no clutch slip. 1st, 3rd and to a lesser extent 5th all get clutch slip under full accelleration. It doesn't last for long, but is long enough to fook up any chances of good 1/4 mile times.
OK. So, as you indicated earlier in the thread, you suspect just the outer "set" of the clutch pack is troublesome, which rightly concurrs with the "odd" numbered gear ratios, and initial thoughts would seem to back up this. However, thinking more (and I don't doubt you, it's more just trying to ponder some other questions) - there is quite a difference in diameter between the outer and inner clutches. The larger the diameter, the more torque it can handle. So, you state you get slip in ALL odd gears - 1st, 3rd and 5th
Righty, if you try to follow my "engineering" logic - 2nd gear has a greater torque multiplication factor than 3rd and 5th - yet 2nd (and presumably 4th and 6th) are not slipping ?? If that IS the case, then whilst the inner "even" clutch is perfectly OK, I would strongly suggest that the outer "odd" clutch is fcuked.
OK, it may only be slipping under very high loads - but it is those very "high load slips" which really do the greatest damage. If you think about a manual car - you slip the clutch every time you move from stationary in 1st or reverse. That is normal operation, and clutches of those kinds of "treatment" can reasonably expected to achieve well over 100k miles before needing changing. However, take the other extreme - a "drving school" type of car, or even those muppets on those "think you are a good driver" type of TV programme, where you see smoke belching from the clutch when someone tries (attrociously) to parallel park on a steep hill - those kinds of occurances can totally bu&&er a clutch extremely rapidly - the TV shows are extreme, but some learner driver cars can need new clutches after 5 or 10k miles.
Now, I'm certainly not trying to call into question your driving, but you are putting your clutch through some very extreme and harsh punishment, and because of this, I would concurr that your clutch (the odd one) is indeed knackered. Now, it
may continue to work under "light duty" for a while, however, I really wouldn't risk leaving it without changing it. It may just completely give up one day - the plates may actually break, and they could then cause considerably more damage to the bell housing, or even the dual-mass flywheel.
Also the transfer from 1st to second is pants under full load. The engine hits full revs and then bounces off it as it can't engage 2nd cleanly (doesn't do this in other gear shifts as much, if at all)
Do you mean it's actually "holding on" to the rev limiter, and delaying the change? Or is it trying to change, but can't, and the result is the engine momentarily running away with itself?
Does it also do it if, say, you only use half throttle (you'd have to be in manual mode), and wait for the box to reach the red-line to change from 1st to 2nd?
I'm wondering if your oil is actually contaminated in some way. In terms of time, the change from 1st to 2nd (accelerating from standstill to redline, and therefore the next gear ratio) is going to be the shortest (maybe around a second), when compared to the time it takes for the box to go from 5th to 6th (still accelerating, and taking the time immediately from when 4th goes 5th, and then accelerates to the red line for 6th - six seconds, maybe?). Because of the extremely short duration, maybe the oil is slightly clogged, and not
releasing the outer clutch quickly enough?? That may be the cause of bouncing on the revlimiter at 1st to 2nd.
It probably doesn't affect the higher gears, because maybe the oil has had a longer period of time to "flush" the clutch release actuation cylinder. Or maybe you have a "lazy" solenoid in the mechatronics module.
I've covered nearly 11k miles from new. and the car has been remapped from around 2k.
OK, so every 10k for a DSG oil and filter change would seem good "insurance". Maybe 10k is still too long, maybe 5k ?
Power has been dropped back to just over 300bhp and 300lbft and at this level the gearbox is behaving itself even on hard starts.
What was the max power and torque you've had going through it? Did you increase the power in "steps" or stages, or did you go from the standard map of 230PS, straight up to the max? If you evolved it through stages, can you remember at what stage/bhp it started to play up?
I think I'll go for the service and ask to see what the oil is like that is already in the 'box.
If the oil looks okay then would it be safe to say that the problem may not actually lie with the clutchpack?
Hmm, your call - but I would personally recommend changing the clutch as a matter of urgency.
If you don't change the clutch, weather the oil is "clean" or not (maybe the filter is very efficient and "overengineered"), once clutches have started to slip, they will give up the will to live much sooner.
Going back to an old skool manual, with a cable operated clutch, once they start to slip, you may adjust the cable to take into account the different "bite point", but they rapidly go down hill, and you reach the end of the adjustment on the cable very quickly. Just before I met my wife, she bought a Ford Capri, and her "so called" friend of the family "mechanic" knew the clutch was slipping, tried to adjust it, and fcuked the flywheel - Richard, you are incompetant waste of oxygen!
There
may be other reasons which toasted the clutch, but weather there are other reasons or not, IMVHO the clutch does need changing.
