Author Topic: Weber 32/34 upgrade - Electrical and start up issues  (Read 6796 times)

Offline InsightMusic

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Hey everyone,

Finally purchasing a Weber carb for my 1.8 Golf GL this week as I have had nothing but issues with the Pierburg 2E for the last few months.. I've had issues where the revs have gone a bit mad and are stuck at around 3k, making sat in traffic not much fun. Then the massive over run when you kill the engine which just sounds awful.. Pretty sure this is related to the waxstat and fast idle speed, but i'm sure a new carb will help solve many of these issues.

I'm pretty excited for the build as i'm buying a Weber brand new, but I have a few questions..

1) Whilst the old carb is off, is it worth be changing the 'Channel O Ring' (Think that's what it's called..) - I have a new one ready to be fitted, so is it worth doing that before fitting the Weber?

2) How easy is it to fit the manual choke that comes with the Weber kit? I've tried to find some info on this online but failed. Is there an easy way through, any photos of where is should sit inside the car?

3) I'm not a huge fan of how much space the original air intake set up takes up. Would it be worth while fitting a bolt on air filter such as K&N or RAMAIR to bolt on to the carb? Would this more likely cause carb icing? Also, where would the connections/pipes go that are currently set up in the original air flow system?


Thanks for all your help,
Stefan

« Last Edit: 07 May 2016, 11:05 by InsightMusic »

Offline lemski

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Look to left of stearing wheel theres a cap on the dash. I put my manual choke in there. I also chose a gromit thats close to go through. Youll have to look and see as I camt remember off top of my head.

I kept standard air filter. My mates got a knn on his. I donr know where pipework is though

Fit it if its there. Meams its a problem that shouldnt occur later on

Offline InsightMusic

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Thanks for the reply, very helpful!

The Weber arrived last night and I started fitting it straight away. Not as difficult to fit as I first thought, however the one piece I need to take off the Pierburg is the 'Heater Element', but the original is almost on it's way out.

Can you buy these anywhere online? Or is it best going to a scrap yard?

I'll take a look at fitting the manual chock this evening, hopefully it's not too hard to fit!

Also, I'll be sticking with the original ait intake system, but may invest in a K&N filter to fit the original system :)

Thanks!

« Last Edit: 05 May 2016, 12:12 by InsightMusic »

Offline lemski

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You could try gsf or tps. Or eBay.
One should have it. Glad I could help

Offline InsightMusic

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What does the 'Heater Element' do exactly? Would I still be okay testing the new Weber even if the heater element isn't attached?

Thanks

Offline lemski

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Aids cold starting I believe. So in this type of weather shouldnt be a problem

Offline InsightMusic

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Thanks for that!

Just installed the carb, but I'm unsure what to do with a pipe which leads out of inlet manifold? It used to go into the right hand side of the Pierburg, a coolant pipe I think, any idea where it should go now?

Thanks,

https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo/full?photo_id=9166486358

Offline InsightMusic

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All sorted now :)

I believe everything is fitted correctly, my only concerns are the electrical connections I have left over.

Obviously there's the 'Heater Element' which has recently snapped so isn't currently connected, but now I have a few other lose connections.

https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo/full?photo_id=21178055362

https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo/full?photo_id=21178055407

Im also not hearing the starter motor click when I turn the key in the ignition.. Quite odd..

Thanks

Offline lemski

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Re: Weber 32/34 upgrade - Electrical and start up issues
« Reply #8 on: 07 May 2016, 11:15 »
Photos arnt working. So cant tell you whats what.
Is it running?

Offline InsightMusic

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Re: Weber 32/34 upgrade - Electrical and start up issues
« Reply #9 on: 07 May 2016, 11:38 »
Hmmmmm, that's annoying..

It's not running no. Everything looks to be connected how it should, apart from the few lose electrical connections.

I'm not getting anything at all when I try to start up.

I've had jump leads on the car in case the battery was flat, but the lights, CD player and everything else is working.

Starter motor was fine before, surely it can't be an issue now?

Thanks