Bypassed my n249 however.........*Worrying issue, need your input please*

[golfyste]

Just noticed you have got the black pipe from the sai going to atmosphere but haven't got the black pipe going too the sai?
I would remove the sai altogether including pump and pipe work also remove the n112 and get rid of that plate and the hardlines then take the vacuume hose from the bottom of the inlet to the boost gauge and tee off from that with the NOn return valve to the Recirc valve and the. Go from them eliminate any possible kinks or blockages and less stuff to think about. 

[GTi_James]

he hasnt had a remap though so removing the SAI could cause further issues at the mo. i was thinking of why all those valves were still there, theyre just taking up space so removing that would be a bonus, or perhaps get constructive lol

[golfyste]

Shouldn't need a remap to remove the sai it's only recirculating exhaust gasses.
Just use a blanking plate and a resistor.

[Nino]

Im going to move the dv from the fpr and T it off the one way valve after alot of research and BaV saying in his topic about the problems it casued when he did a sai removal of a standard map

[golfyste]

Did he use resistors?
All the sai does is recirc exhaust has for 90 secs so after that it shouldn't really affect anything.
But I was just sayig it's a option to simplify the system
Can think if what else may e causing your problems 

[Nino]

Yeah i know what you mean bud no he didnt use resistors but i dnt think the sai would have anything to dao with my problem would it?

[golfyste]

Not directly...I'm just suggesting it as it allows you to remove the pipe under the plate which hold the n112 and all the egr etc and simplify the system to allow you to see everything easier and eliminate any possibilities 

[dom]

Removing the SAI system does not require you to have a remap, as long as you use the correct resistors and a blanking plate it will not cause any problems.

[Nino]

Well I find it strange how under low pressure e.g my boost going from -30 to +3 PSI it sounds exactly how is should. Soon as I give it abit of welly e.g 5+ PSI I hear the chatter as well as the Tsssssssh. Performance does not change, car drives and pulls no different and the car has not popped any codes "yet".

The only thing I can think of that makes any logical sence to me is after reading this....
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Turbo+compressor+stall

It says that under boost mt DV should be completely close and when I release my foot the pressure should be fed through the inlet? But it's not its going the other way cause the chatter sound because the turbo is stalling? So I'm guessing that the DV is not keeping itself closed on boost or, is not opening quick enough for the pressure to release down to the inlet. The only thing I can think that is causing this is that ether when I close my bonnet the pipe on top of my DV is bending restricting air from pushing down on the piston (highly doubt it as I had the same pipe on top before with no problems) or the spring in my DV is not reacting quick enough to spring the piston back up to release the pressure back into the inlet so the puts sure is going the only way it can back to the turbo which would make more sence because by doing my bypass I have effectively increased the amount of pressure to my DV so I would need a stronger spring to push the piston up before the air has chance to go the wrong way.

My other trail of thought was that because I have fed my boost gauge and DV from the FPR the amount of pressure in that line has been weakened e.g 100% of the pussure has been devided by 3 so in essence the pressure is weaker. So I plan to move the DV to the other line on the "one way valve" in a hope that is works. Or I could also try and get a yellow spring from somewhere or try my OEM DV and see if that helps?

What are your thoughts on this guys?

[GTi_James]

firstly. the SAI doesnt do anything but help out with cold starts as i have just read and been told, secondly move the DV T for you gauge closer the to DV so you can eliminate any equalisation issues and 3rdly give the yellow spring a try and see how deep the rabbit hole really goes