Is a forge actuator a must to pull Chris's power? My turbo is about a year old now but if it needs one to make sure it holds the power I'll get one.
Stock actuators wont make good power, some find it hard to make 220bhp. When I first brought my AUM I maxed the map out and only could get 190bhp due to 150k miles on actuator spring. New forge one fitted and the same map 220bhp out the tin on a stock engine, then 240bhp+ will all my stage 2 mods.
The only k03s I have had 240bhp on the stock actuator was a 2007 1.8T Polo GTI with around 15k on the clock, full stage 2 spec.
Is changing the actuator a turbo-out job?
It can be done by dropping the turbo down by 50mm and taking the manifold off. To drop the turbo you need to remove the down pipe and the bolt which mounts the turbo to the block, this will drop the turbo enough to get to the lower nuts on the manifold. Once manifold is off you can "just" get the top 10mm actuator bolt out, which is very close to one of the feed banjos, it looks impossible to do but with a little effort it will come out. If you find it too hard getting the 10mm bolt from next to the banjo you will need to remove the banjo and replace the washers. Re fit the manifold with a new gasket and 13 new nuts and washers.
I am sure the combo of your carbon map with a the forge actuator/ yellow spring will be awesome, Nick might have to clip the N75 I control in the midrange to stop it over boosting..
Nick
