if you really must go down the carb route, which it looks like you are, then at the very least pay some attention to the ignition system, the one you have now is very limited in its adjustability- this may sound like a minor thing but it really really isnt, firstly any ignition system has less time to soak (charge) the coil as rpm rises and therefore spark energy drops, hence the twin coil systems found on a huge number of modern family wagons, plus if you actually succeed in getting a meaningfull increase in airflow at high rpm/full throttle (the hard bit) and get the right amount of fuel in (the easy bit if you arent bothered about part throttle accuracy too) and get it properly atomised (harder than it sounds) you will need LESS spark advance for a given engine speed- this is because the denser air/fuel charge will alow the flame front to propogate more quickly, the only way to achieve this with a dizzy twisting setup is to retard the spark under all circumstances which will cost economy and driveability, similarly when you get to your desired cruising speed and let off to say 20-30% throttle the amount of air introduced to the engine is reduced enormously and so the spark advnce should be increased to suit, hard to explain but trust me.
as for the 14.7:1 ratio? yes, that is the stoichiometric ratio and the one aimed for by a narrowband lambda, however just whacking a lambda in will get you no closer to achieving your desired ratio without an ecu capable of reading the information it provides and making adjustments based on them. Also stoich/lambda 1 ratio is fine for things like mid-high rpm cruise and light load, or ticking over when warm but under hard acceleration a richer mixture is what you want so a k-jet system that works properly won't just maintain a constant lambda ratio, and isnt supposed to either, its far more complicted than that. it may sound like i hate k-jet but i dont at all, its what gave us the all important little 'i' on the back of our cars and in its day was fitted to some very exotic, expensive, and high performance cars, its just that the day in question was 20 years ago..... also it was a BIG step forwards from carbs and the first one towards the great systems on offer today. Even bikes are almost all running port throttles now, progress you see
the megajolt system
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MegaJolt_Lite_Jr._-_A_DIY_Programmable_EDIS_Ignition_Controller_-_Users_Welcome! is probably the cheapest setup and uses ford edis parts (escort/mondeo/ka/fiesta etc) so it is very easy to source parts too, properly installed and set up it is capable of giving a healthy and accurately timed spark under any of the conditions your engine will encounter. the shape of a fully trimmed advance curve when drawn on a graph is nigh on impossible to achieve by mechanical/vacuum means and the cost of the dyno time to get close would far outweigh the cost of something more capable in the first place.
A.G Bell has written various books on engine tuning such as this one (the one i have and has served me very well)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Four-stroke-Performance-Tuning-Graham-Bell/dp/1859604358 if you get a copy read it from cover to cover once, then possibly again, then research every detail of what you want to do by going through the relevant parts and actually working it out. the earlier editions were written at a time when the golf 8v/16v were considered current but before a properly mappable ignition or injection system was readily available to home tuners on a budget so one of the later editions would perhaps be a good idea as well as. oh, and shop around, the link i showed was just first one that came up when i searched- you should get one for peanuts on ebay.
you said you had your carbs already but the bodies i mentioned are up for 150, the injectors are peco type but i may-hopefully- have the connectors for them to go on a suitable loom too. they taper from 50mm diameter at the in end down to 43mm at the out end and are in very very good clean condition. the only thing that needs doing to them is the holes for the secondary ecu operated throttle shaft need plugging or welding- not a hard job if you know what you're doing. plus the obvious like as suitable manifold/trumpets etc to suit
