GTI FUEL PUMP

[Guy]

i can give you a general purpose relay that was in place of my fuel pump relay that allowed the fuel pump to prime constantly 

  Hi, I never said thanks for the offer, as you can see from above above post I got her going but spades in the front of the fuse box isnt the best long term.  Does this relay only kick in when ignition is on?  if you don't need it, does the offers still stand? give you some money for it if needs be?... cheers mate.

sure does... PM sent

[rubjonny]

i wouldnt recommend this for the same reason guy isnt using his, its unsafe if you have an accident as the relay wont cut off if engine dies. gsf will have the one you want, cheap and it'll be safe

[SoundillusioN]

i wouldnt recommend this for the same reason guy isnt using his, its unsafe if you have an accident as the relay wont cut off if engine dies. gsf will have the one you want, cheap and it'll be safe

yeah, i know it sounds bad but its only for while i'm working on the car.  The proper relay is fine but its not being triggered to run once the engine starts due the incredible amount of wiring issues in the car as can been seen in my other post on here. The car has so much more than standard due to the Clifford Concept 50 and a preveious system that wasn't uninstalled!.. When th car is in nearer to being on the road, I hope to have rectified the problem properly.

[rubjonny]

was it the right relay in the first place? the proper k-jet ones need a rev counter signal, and a live & earth thats it so hopefully wont be too hard to sort.  from your other post i see you have the later type fusebox so all the signals are internal, if your rev counter works then so should the relay

[SoundillusioN]

was it the right relay in the first place? the proper k-jet ones need a rev counter signal, and a live & earth thats it so hopefully wont be too hard to sort.  from your other post i see you have the later type fusebox so all the signals are internal, if your rev counter works then so should the relay

Defo right one (position 2 in the box) and its where I have my manual fuel pump switch wired at the mo.  Dash is dead! apart from MFA and LED's.  FUEL and TEMP read full/max when ignition on... Trust me there's a lot to do.  I did post this http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=121281.0 but only Guy really came back with something and that was gonna cost money I havent got right now so I had to take desperate measuress to make sure she ran ok.  (which she does!!!!)

[SoundillusioN]

was it the right relay in the first place? the proper k-jet ones need a rev counter signal, and a live & earth thats it so hopefully wont be too hard to sort.  from your other post i see you have the later type fusebox so all the signals are internal, if your rev counter works then so should the relay

  Oh and PS, if you have any more useful information on wire locations/colours etc on this then it would be much appreciated. 

[rubjonny]

i mean was it the right relay, guy had a '53' relay in slot 2 which made the fuel pump come on with the ignition, if you had tried a 67, 167 or 80 from a digi then it wouldnt work at all.

round the back of the fusebox the only wire you need to worry about is the red/black rev counter feed from the coil to D/26. But like i say if your rev counter works then this should be fine, unless someone bypassed the fusebox and wired the cluster direct to the coil wire

[SoundillusioN]

i mean was it the right relay, guy had a '53' relay in slot 2 which made the fuel pump come on with the ignition, if you had tried a 67, 167 or 80 from a digi then it wouldnt work at all.

round the back of the fusebox the only wire you need to worry about is the red/black rev counter feed from the coil to D/26. But like i say if your rev counter works then this should be fine, unless someone bypassed the fusebox and wired the cluster direct to the coil wire

As i said before , dash is dead at the moment, the relay is correct because the car was 100% 5 years ago and nothing has changed (other than the obvious like the engine has been removed and quite a few wires were cut in the process.)  My concern over what wires are what is because the clifford was obviously inbetween anything relating to the fuel pump and coil as both of these are what I have had to bypass.  I will look into sorting the dash electrics out and trace the black and red wire you mention.  Its so hard to find VAG wires as there is easily double what there should be masked by clifford wires and heat shrink.  Again thanks for your help on this so far... at least i got her started, thats really got me in the right frame of mind to crack on!

[rubjonny]

ok cool, we know the main power and output wires are fine since jumping the relay socket makes the pump run, and the earth/ign live wires are internal to the fusebox so they should be ok since car does run.  I'd be looking at the coil wires next, make sure the red/black and green wires are on the terminal 1 side of the coil, and the black wires are on the terminal 15 side of coil, then check the wire to the D plug is ok and not hacked up between the fusebox and coil. if all that checks out then you should be good to go!

If it was me i would find the alarm control box and any keys/readers for it, and follow the wires back.  chop it out, and as you go rejoin any wires that were spliced into by the alarm fitter.

luckily since your engine is k-jet there is next to bugger all required in terms of wiring needed to make it run!

[SoundillusioN]

I had done a lot before i posted anything, took me a while to get her started.  The coil wires are all good as you describe bar one black positive on T15 which I have had to put on a switch to the battery.  the alarm is a crazy bit of kit, if you look here http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=121281.0 you can see the extent of what i'm working with and thats not all of it!  there are still short chopped wires behind the fuse box that i have no idea what they were for, do you know which D plug i am looking for, quite a few of the plugs have been hacked. I think as far as the pump goes there is a broken trigger wire or something. The other problem is its previous alarm was never unistalled either so tracing is a nightmare and I'm a bit of whimp when it comes to not wanting to make things worse!  As far as your point on chop bits out where the fitter spliced, thats the plan, just being very careful! Again, thanks for your info!!!