Snapped Manifold bolts :(

[bmouthboyo]

really? it says it gets up to 1300 degrees !!! that not enough?

Is the one posted by danny better to get?

[sidecarphil]

yes i think so

the other one might be ok then but not 1300 degrees

[danny_p]

it's not the tempriture of the flame so much, it's the amount of heat it can throw out as well.   would be suprised if the 3 in 1 torch posted chould put out more than 100w of heat the manifold will just conduct all that away and hardly get warm,  you need something that can add heat to the area your working on faster than the "work" will conduct it away. that is where oxy torches are king  but mapp gas is the most accsesable effective means.    

[bmouthboyo]

ok thanks, i bought the one recommended by danny. I often come across suborn bolts so im sure it will come in handy.

Where can you get the refills from normally? and do they cost much?

I have bought some easygas, the solder blowtorch and some good quality mole grips.

Touch wood them b!tches are coming out.

Is there anything i should be aware of when using the blowtorch near the head?

[wil0]

I have used a couple of sets of stud extractor kits, the grabit type and some halfords ones. Both times they have snapped when trying to remove the bolts

Can't understand how its remotely possible to snap a stud extractor - they're sturdier than a standard socket. (See image).

I was talking about the screw type, see image. didnt think a socket type stud extractor would actually work as he cant really get the manifold off, therefore cant access the remaining thread.

[danny_p]

builders merchants  and diy stores ect, they are top favoret of plumbers.

don't worry about the head if you have to get nasty enough to upset it, it's time to give up on doing it with the head on and rip it off and put another on,  ive used oxy torches with anger on head studs and got away with it every time

[bmouthboyo]

I like your style

[Diamond Hell]

The elephant in the corner that half of the people here might not have spotted is that because the head is on an engine in the back of a T25 it is sitting over at 50 degrees.  The broken studs are on the underside of the head.

With that many snapped studs, get the head off, because you're going to be looking up at anything you're trying to do and just solving one of those is going to waste a LOT of your time.  I know, I've been there and got the t-shirt.  VW's biggest problem with this whole situation is that they decided on using M8 studs - they suffer massively from heat corrosion.  Subaru use M10 and this issue just doesn't rear it's head.

Make sure when you replace the manifold that you use peened nuts and good thick washers under them, or you'll be doing the same job six months later.

[bmouthboyo]

Thanks for the advice. I am going to tackle one with heat, mole grips etc.

If it takes too long or proves too much of a git ill take the head off.

Is taking the head off an easy job? I have done a BMW 325 E30 with a mate once and wasnt too bad.

I am assuming its a case of removing fuel lines, intake, alternator etc then removing rocker cover and undoing the bolts (in order)

Getting engine in TDC and Slipping the timing belt off (after marking teeth position)

Then reverse with new bolts and gasket after?

Not really what i want to be doing on my own to be honest, but as i said before at least i have options.

[danny_p]

head on off on these engines is easy.  you got the idea    tho would time the engine up to TDC so the timeing marks for the belt are all lined up.   beware of the intermideate shaft moveing when the belt is off as it'll put the ignition timeing out  or just b prepared to re set the ignition timeing