Author Topic: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion  (Read 4725 times)

Offline drivebycar

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Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« on: 22 October 2008, 12:47 »
I am doing an engine conversion this weekend, from my pb digi mk2 gti 8v, to a pb+AGG.

Basically the new engine is all ready build, I just need to take mine out, swap all the ancilliaries across, and put the new one in.

Ive got a good idea of what to do, just wondering whether there were anythings to look out for so I can be prepared!!

thanks  :smiley:
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #1 on: 22 October 2008, 12:57 »
main thing to check is if it has the right dizzy, later 2.0 has a single window dizzy that wont work.  if the block has a crank sensor then its the wrong type.  Though wasnt it you I said this to already, and the block was out of a running MK2?

if you havent bought any, get new engine mounts, particualrly the rear engine one.  get a 16v/g60 rear engine one as its nice n beefy plus the cheepy bonded rubber front & box mounts.

Check your steering rack closely for ripped boots and damaged track rod ends, engine out is the best time to do any rack repairs as access is much improved plus check the rack -> bulkhead UJ boot.  Make sure you put in a new clutch kit, put the flywheel on the right way (check TDC mark is at the top when engine at TDC) and check the gearbox pushrod is ok, make sure its not mushroomed out.

Engine out is a good time to fit a bigger anti roll bar too!
« Last Edit: 22 October 2008, 12:59 by rubjonny »
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Offline drivebycar

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #2 on: 22 October 2008, 13:04 »
Yeah it was me you said it to!

It should have the dizzy and everything with it, plus I got a new dizzy cap and rotor arm for it.

Wheres the best place to get engine mounts from?

I dont really have that much money or time to get stuck in with all the other bits, as its my daily I need to get it all done in 2 days max.
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #3 on: 22 October 2008, 13:34 »
gsf will do for mounts, you can get away with just rear and do others later, they're easy to swap wi engine in.  deffo check the rack over though, especially passenger side end and boot if ita a manual one as track rod has to be replaced as a complete unit which is very hard to do with engine in! (manual rack has fixed passenger rod & end)
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline drivebycar

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #4 on: 22 October 2008, 13:50 »
right o.  :smiley:

With regard to the actual conversion, whats the best way to go about it?

Manifold/Downpipe Bolts, driveshaft/gearbox bolts, engine+gearbox mounts, wires and pipes ...
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #5 on: 22 October 2008, 14:19 »
what i do is this:
1. take off all the front end down, slam panel, rad, bumper, lower valance, radiator etc. Leave the front subframe where the front engine mount is bolted to for now.
2. Unplug all the wiring loom from engine, tuck out the way, and the accellerator and clutch cables, plus brake servo hose to inlet.
3. Undo the heater matrix hoses from side of head and metal pipe, and if you have good access take off the thermostat flange from waterpump, this drains last of the coolant from the block, remove header tank & pipes.
4. If you plan on replacing gearbox oil, drain it now, same with engine oil as it make everything that little bit lighter plus stops fluids leaking out when you shift things about, engine oil not that necessary but if the engine falls over it can come out
5. If car is on level surface, pop off handbrake and loosen off the driveshaft bolts (spline head, cantr recall size) push the car backwards as you go, till all 6 both sides undone.  I did this without jacking up car, and thats with it lowered 40mm+
6. Take out speedo cable, take care with this as you dont want to drop the gear in, whatever you do dont pull hard! Wiggle gently and it should pop out easily, stuff a rag in the hole to stop anything falling in.
7. Disconnect the link rods from gearbox, and remove the top lever from the relay shaft as it gives a bit of room.
8. 3 choices here, do which you feel is easiest.  I always go with a, never failed me yet:
a) Remove the inlet manifold bolts, they're allen head and you need a deep reach bit hammer fully home so you dont round, then remove 8 manifold nuts, last bolt is a pain need a ring spanner.  Mole grips help too, there IS room to get them on the tricky bolt, just need patience and harsh language!
b) Remove 6 bolts from zaust mani/dp flange, leave both inlets on
c) disconnect downpipe from front silencer, leave both manifolds + dp attached to engine
9. Engine removal time! Undo 3 bolts from rear engine mount, top bolt from gearbox mount and top nut from front mount.  Attach crane and lift it slowly till you see the front engine mount bracket lift off mount, rethread nut loosely.  Undo both 17mm nuts holding front subframe on, front mount nut holds the subframe up makign this an easy job for 1 person, remove nut and front subframe.
10. Pull out the engine!

Refitting is reverse of removal, though I would fit the manifold/downpipe to car before refitting if you went with option c above as trying to get it to go down tunnel whilst on crane would be tricky! If you feel up to it though you could fit all to engine 1st, your call.
As you fit engine to car, pull the driveshafts forward and get them in the flange cups before you fit the engine in fully, sometimes theres no room to get them in later!  I try to get 1 bolt threaded in a little to keep the shafts in place while I move the engine.

I did a complete ABF engine swap into my 16v MK2 by myself in 10 hours, and that included a bit of tinkering on the abf and replacement gearbox, just to give you hope that it IS possible to do it in a weekend!  Trick is to be prepared and do as much as you possibly can to replacement engine before you even start tearing the car down.

edit: oh and get 8 copper manifold nuts, you'll thank yourself the next time you take the engine out!
« Last Edit: 22 October 2008, 14:21 by rubjonny »
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline drivebycar

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #6 on: 22 October 2008, 14:22 »
LEGEND!!!

Thanks for your help mate, is it still ok to give you a quick buzz if I hit any snags?

Cheers
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #7 on: 22 October 2008, 14:24 »
yeah no bother!  I have to add the 10hour conversion was a basic block swap, I kept all zaust and managmnet.  converting it to KR 16v spec from digi 8v took considerably longer, about 4 days hard graft  :grin:
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline drivebycar

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #8 on: 22 October 2008, 14:46 »
Haha fk that!

Well I should be able to keep all my loom and everythign so im hoping it will be as simple as possible, otherwise I wouldnt be tackling it myself!

Bought loads of bits to give the new engine a good service before I put it in, so should be all good!
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Right.... Before I wade into this conversion
« Reply #9 on: 22 October 2008, 14:52 »
one other thing, has the lump been sat with a sumpfull of oil or has it been drained?  if its been drained the oil pump may need to be re-primed!
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.