what i do is this:
1. take off all the front end down, slam panel, rad, bumper, lower valance, radiator etc. Leave the front subframe where the front engine mount is bolted to for now.
2. Unplug all the wiring loom from engine, tuck out the way, and the accellerator and clutch cables, plus brake servo hose to inlet.
3. Undo the heater matrix hoses from side of head and metal pipe, and if you have good access take off the thermostat flange from waterpump, this drains last of the coolant from the block, remove header tank & pipes.
4. If you plan on replacing gearbox oil, drain it now, same with engine oil as it make everything that little bit lighter plus stops fluids leaking out when you shift things about, engine oil not that necessary but if the engine falls over it can come out
5. If car is on level surface, pop off handbrake and loosen off the driveshaft bolts (spline head, cantr recall size) push the car backwards as you go, till all 6 both sides undone. I did this without jacking up car, and thats with it lowered 40mm+
6. Take out speedo cable, take care with this as you dont want to drop the gear in, whatever you do dont pull hard! Wiggle gently and it should pop out easily, stuff a rag in the hole to stop anything falling in.
7. Disconnect the link rods from gearbox, and remove the top lever from the relay shaft as it gives a bit of room.
8. 3 choices here, do which you feel is easiest. I always go with a, never failed me yet:
a) Remove the inlet manifold bolts, they're allen head and you need a deep reach bit hammer fully home so you dont round, then remove 8 manifold nuts, last bolt is a pain need a ring spanner. Mole grips help too, there IS room to get them on the tricky bolt, just need patience and harsh language!
b) Remove 6 bolts from zaust mani/dp flange, leave both inlets on
c) disconnect downpipe from front silencer, leave both manifolds + dp attached to engine
9. Engine removal time! Undo 3 bolts from rear engine mount, top bolt from gearbox mount and top nut from front mount. Attach crane and lift it slowly till you see the front engine mount bracket lift off mount, rethread nut loosely. Undo both 17mm nuts holding front subframe on, front mount nut holds the subframe up makign this an easy job for 1 person, remove nut and front subframe.
10. Pull out the engine!
Refitting is reverse of removal, though I would fit the manifold/downpipe to car before refitting if you went with option c above as trying to get it to go down tunnel whilst on crane would be tricky! If you feel up to it though you could fit all to engine 1st, your call.
As you fit engine to car, pull the driveshafts forward and get them in the flange cups before you fit the engine in fully, sometimes theres no room to get them in later! I try to get 1 bolt threaded in a little to keep the shafts in place while I move the engine.
I did a complete ABF engine swap into my 16v MK2 by myself in 10 hours, and that included a bit of tinkering on the abf and replacement gearbox, just to give you hope that it IS possible to do it in a weekend! Trick is to be prepared and do as much as you possibly can to replacement engine before you even start tearing the car down.
edit: oh and get 8 copper manifold nuts, you'll thank yourself the next time you take the engine out!