My 8V Runaround!! - Slightly different problem

[MrDan]

hi guys,

bought my 3rd mk3 this morning as a runaround, P reg, average cond 100k - £500

as it has THE problem (cutting out)

as iv managed to fix my other two i thought id be ok, the chap i got it off changed the dizzy, leads, and no 30 relay. got the car halfway home before it cut out and refused to start again. iv spent an hour looking for someone with the same symptoms but just wondering if anyone can help my with my problem solving

the car sounds a bit weak starting from cold but it does start and runs fine, then the oil hit 68c (co - incidence??) there was allot of clicking from the relays and it died, when i tried to start it again sometimes it would die after 4 -secs or sometimes mch longer.. to the same cload of clicking.

Relay 30 is warm,

towed the car home and left it to cool, back to square one. i was just thinking if its elecrical should the temperature matter

hopfully get VAG-COM on it this week but just looking for any more pointers before i start replacing sensors willy nilly

previous owner has had the alarm removed as he belived that was the problem. the fuse box does look a little of a mess

[GOLF_MK]

I'd probably replace the usual relay suspects to start with, then start looking at Cam shaft Sensor.

VAG COM would be best though!

[95gtipete]

throttle housing is your problem. Mine had the same problem since i bought it in november last year. I changed two relays, ignition coil, plugs, temperature sensor i was at the end of my tether. I was told and read up about the throttle housing body. I removed the air filter hose going into the throttle housing sprayed some carb cleaner in and as i did the butterfly closed. I held the butterfly open while spraying carb cleaner in and used a toothbrush just to scrub around. The amount of black rubbish that came out was shocking. The car took a while to start cause of the carb cleaner but what a difference. No more stalling and no more worrying about it stalling.

[MrDan]

cheers guys, going picking lead up shortly i will post my findings on the hope i can be of help to someone else!

i thought about the butterfly but how would this cause the ECU to decide to cut the engine, as it can happly happen at 3.5k RPM??

[MrDan]

two problems show up on vag-com

00513 - Engine Speed Sensor - signal outside specifications - intermittent

00515 Camshaft position sensor (HALL) Sensor G40 - signal outside specifications - intermittent

Cleared them and they came streight back!!! - also car wont start today!!! haha

i love my golf!!

[GOLF_MK]

camshaft sensor will be your non starting problem then !

[Saffa]

Hi,
Check the wires to your crank speed sender ( under oil filter area ) if they are cracked, the sender needs changing..... the hall sender one comes up as it needs crank sender and hall sender signals to match for T.D.C to start.

Jochen.

[MrDan]

Hi,
Check the wires to your crank speed sender ( under oil filter area ) if they are cracked, the sender needs changing..... the hall sender one comes up as it needs crank sender and hall sender signals to match for T.D.C to start.

Jochen.

Cheers Saffa,

That makes sense, iv looked at the wire i dosent seem cracked just dissapears off behind the oil filter, i take it you have to remove the filter to change the sender?

[jamesd0015 aka jimgti]

Before you fork out more cash, i would recommend check the timing first.

[thai-wronghorse]

Literally just being through this ever so common dilema myself, it's unbelievable how many threads on the internet regarding this super irritating problem that mk3 Golf's tend to aquire.
After many weeks of itimitent breaking down i went through the list of things to replace and check that so many other owners have listed, these include in this order :

1. Checked and cleaned out throttle body.
2. Replaced vacumn hose.
3. Replaced ignition leads, distributor cap, rotor and plugs.
4. Tested coil aginst a brand new one.
5. Replaced ECU and fuel relays.
6. Replaced temperature sender.
7. And finally after chatting with several garages and in forums i whittled it down to the bloody crank impulse / speed sender.

This was done last friday afternoon and so far so good (fingers crossed), on initial inspection the sender & cable appeared to be ok but once i started to move it around when removing it from the block it literally crumbled in my hands to reveal several rather corroded and contacting wires,  apparently it's a very common heat deterition fault as it runs against the engine and over a hot water pipe.

Hope this helps you out as i know what a f**king pain it can be !!!