Author Topic: Sub and amp fixing...  (Read 5479 times)

Offline Ben Lessani

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #10 on: 11 April 2008, 11:00 »
Just use Velcro - it will more than hold a sub box, and screw the amp onto the sub box itself.

Offline Shady Pioneer

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #11 on: 11 April 2008, 13:58 »
Velcro is a good idea! Should be cheap too, and if I'm screwing the amp to the box, just need to make sure I use smaller screws right?

The other thing I was gonna ask is, I'm fitting it myself, so I've heard that putting the power cable and RCA/remote cables down the same side intefer...is this true? Or can I route them down the same side of the car?

Offline Chris 'N' Jen

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #12 on: 11 April 2008, 14:11 »
yes it is true, however, unless your pulling a monster current i would have thought you will be ok to run them all the same way.

Offline Shady Pioneer

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #13 on: 11 April 2008, 14:14 »
Nah just a standard current (12v?) for powering 1 4 channel amp to goto a sub and front speakers. That's it.

Offline Chris 'N' Jen

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #14 on: 11 April 2008, 14:37 »
Nah just a standard current (12v?) for powering 1 4 channel amp to goto a sub and front speakers. That's it.

maybe i didnt explain corectly.

by monster current i mean powering something silly like 2 x 1000watt rms amps and another for components.

its adviseable to do it anyway but a lot on here havent and dont have any problems.

your supply is around 14.4v when the engine is running and about 12.8v (ish) when the engine is off.


Offline Shady Pioneer

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #15 on: 11 April 2008, 14:42 »
Haha! Nah that's cool man, I'm a tard with stuff like this hence why I'm here for the pros advice. Thanks for explaining.

I'll be sure to let you all know how it turns out. Come on payday!!!

Offline Ben Lessani

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #16 on: 11 April 2008, 16:17 »
by monster current i mean powering something silly like 2 x 1000watt rms amps and another for components.

its adviseable to do it anyway but a lot on here havent and dont have any problems.

your supply is around 14.4v when the engine is running and about 12.8v (ish) when the engine is off.

That's pretty misleading mate, you don't have to be drawing 160A to get interference over RCA's. If I put my RCA's within 5" of the fuel pump live I get incredible interference. When adding additional kit into your ICE system, do it right the first time - as your bound to run into issues, about 50% of installs end up with unwanted noise (ground loops, inductive noise etc.).

Run your power leads down one side of the car, and the RCA's down the other (or down the middle). Try to not cross any wires at 90 Degs with the RCA's. Make sure you have a nice clean ground on the floorpan - try to avoid attaching it to panels that have been spot welded on (poor electrical contact), and always use suitable gauge +ve and -ve leads, with a fuse within 12" of the battery on the +ve.

Offline Shady Pioneer

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #17 on: 11 April 2008, 23:06 »
Well I only ever intend on having components and a sub and amp to power them all, I won't be upgrading ever again, unless it's to upgrade the sub maybe, so is it really worth going down two sides? Just it means much more work in getting the RCAs down the driver's side, and I know it sounds lazy but I wouldn't know where to start in that respect.  :cry:

Just to give me a helping hand, send me in the right direction for a good amp fitting kit, with everything I will need so it's all there for when I get everything delivered.

Cheers guys

Offline Ben Lessani

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #18 on: 11 April 2008, 23:38 »
I am a patronising ass....but....

Well I only ever intend on having components and a sub and amp to power them all, I won't be upgrading ever again, unless it's to upgrade the sub maybe, so is it really worth going down two sides? Just it means much more work in getting the RCAs down the driver's side, and I know it sounds lazy...

When adding additional kit into your ICE system, do it right the first time - as your bound to run into issues, about 50% of installs end up with unwanted noise (ground loops, inductive noise etc.).

It literally takes about 5 minutes to pull back the carpets and run the cables, hell, if the MK3 is anything like the MK2, you can strip the car down the floor pan in about 15 minutes. At the end of the day its up to do, but if you get line noise, those cables are going to be tore straight up again.

With regards to the wiring kit, what rating fuse does the amp use; gives a better indication of what power it actually draws (less the marketing hype). Then refer to http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

Offline Shady Pioneer

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Re: Sub and amp fixing...
« Reply #19 on: 11 April 2008, 23:53 »
Don't sweat it man, you're helping lol!

I'm getting this one:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-azLLBpocq42/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=108R475A

So...

And in regards to the wiring, I don't mind sending the other cable down the other end, it's just getting the RCA cable from the headunit, down to the driver's bottom trim which I'm gonna find really hard, from there it's pretty straighforward, it's that initial headunit stage.

And also I've noticed some headunit have a RCA cable which is also the remote turn on? Is that right?