Seemed like a good buy at the time !!!

[Gozza]

Ello all I am fairly new to this forum but have had 3 golf gti mark 2's and my recent purchase has a couple of problems,

1) When the car is cold it takes ages to start/if at all if I do not press the gas. I have noticed that if i press it 5/6 times before I start it it will start better but still a little rough ?

2) The gearbox crunches in 2nd and 3rd when cold but once warm is ok. Also the finger thing (bit with the round rubber ball on it) on the gear selection moves about a lot, is this right, it seems loose ?

3) The petrol gauge does not work (very annoying) ?

4) Damn driver seat lifter does not work, the wire has snapped on one side. Any way I can get to it without undoing the seat back ?

it is an 1988 16v by the way !!!

Thanks in advance for any advice

[richandhazel]

Hello mate, welcome to the forum.

1. I can't see how pumping the throttle 5 or 6 times is going to make any difference as all you're doing is moving the butterflies..........its not like a carb where you'd be pumping fuel in
You may have leaky injectors causing it to be effectively 'flooded' on start up. Try disconnecting the cold start valve for a few days and see what effect that has.

2. Synchro is a little worn, try changing the oil with some synthetic. If your gear linkage is getting a little sloppy it could be down to that ball you mentioned, cheap to replace. More info (Mk1 but very similar) here:-
http://www.geocities.com/jonnyguru/vw/shifter.html

3. Loose connection somewhere?

4. They are a PITA to fix and as far as I'm concerned not worth the effort (I don't carry passengers very often). You have to get in under the seat cover, which does mean removing the seat back........thats the easy bit
 

[Gozza]

Hi and thanks for the reply.

Cold start valve, and where is this located ??

The ball thing looks to be in good nick as in my previous golf it was shafted and I did replace it. Could the crunching be due to a dodgy engine mount as I noticed the whole engine moves if I lft it(been lowered 60 mm for soem time you see).

Thanks

[richandhazel]

Worn engine mount and moving engine certainly won't help as the linkage is obviously mounted to the chassis so they are moving in relation to each other. I'd change that first, won't hurt as it needs doing.

Cold start valve is on the inlet manifold, at the end with a blue connector, simply leave it disconnected and see if it has any effect on cold start up. Its used to inject extra fuel when its cold to give you your fuel enrichment. Something you don't need if your injectors are leaking. If your starting improves then you need new injectors although I ran an audi that had that problem for 5 years without changing the injectors but just leaving that plug off.

[golfvr6]

Good tip there mate  

[richandhazel]

Cheers '6, got that tip from a VW-Audi magazine about 8 years ago. Probably still got the mag in the loft somewhere.

[Helios_Blue_Valver]

1) When the car is cold it takes ages to start/if at all if I do not press the gas. I have noticed that if i press it 5/6 times before I start it it will start better but still a little rough ?

2)Also the finger thing (bit with the round rubber ball on it) on the gear selection moves about a lot, is this right, it seems loose ?


Thanks in advance for any advice

1) Sounds like the warm up regulator (I think thats what it is called.) located on the right side of the engine (looking from the front) just below and forward of the distributor. Should have a couple of fuel lines going to it. I changed that on mine for a similar problem and it worked the treat.

2)That is a rather commen problem. The heat from the exhaust breaks down the rubber and the ball falls apart. It is called a Relay Selector shaft (VAG Part Number: 191711173B) and is available from VW. Be sure to get the rubber grommets that actually fit around the top and bottom of the shaft into the bracket as well. These usually fall to bits when You pull the old shaft out. Take it easy and welcome to the forum

Brad

[Gozza]

thanks all for the info I will be sure to check that, out of interest what do u think about the deal I got on the mota.

It is 1988 E reg with genuine 90 k on clock with every m.o.t and tax disk from new some service history also. In metallic black with elec windows,cent locking n sunroof. Heres the good bits tho,

16inch Oz alloys,
Full scorpion stainless exhaust
lowered 60 mm on jamex shocks n springs
single wiper
momo steering wheel, gearnob, handbrake cover
stainless door pins
stainless pedals
Half smoked rear lights (non standard)
New single headlight grille
All receipts etc for mods
thatcham 2 immob,
Big bumper kit all round

And how much do you think I got it for  

Oh and how difficult/expensive are the engine mounts to do ?? I think I would like to go for some upated ones

[Helios_Blue_Valver]

Sounds like a nice motor to me. I bougtht my 16 valve 3 door in helious blue with 70,000 miles, full service history, every old MOT and tax disc for 950. It is dam near mint. only noticable flaws is the clear on the drivers side front wing is cracking. Only mods to it have been a k-star chip, sebring exhaust, and it had a TSR 4 branch on it that was sh!te. Interested to hear what you paid as deals are out there if you watch out for them.

[turbo]

try synthetic gear oil in your gearbox this helps to stop gear crunches!