Extra Brake Cooling, someone tested?!

[scanesare]

You probably don't need disc ducted cooling though until you've already dealt with fluid and hoses and having some proper grippy pads to generate the heat already and of course some proper hard driving (which you won't do on the road at these levels). Only track driving will push OEM braking beyond its limits, you need continual max braking over like 20-30 mins of a track session before you'll see any noticeable fade on OEM gear.

90 euros down the drain I politely suggest...

I agree. If improving braking performance is an actual worry then fluids and pads are where you are starting from. But I think by now from his description it sounds more like: "Where should I spend my 100eur monthly car budget for this month?"     rather than an actual brake performance worry. Longevity of the discs for public road use?? Not really a problem with the PP brakes I'd say...

@Wide: Just to be clear I am not discouraging you or anything! We all want to do stuff to our cars even if it's not actually required, that's absolutely fine! Looking forward to the installation.

[golfdave]

Yes!, but that was i little bit harder to mount?!..

My DIY..so yes modification to mount as they are designed to fit the Audi alloy lower front wishbones...just remove the VW pressed steel wishbones & fit the Audi ones if you want the brake ducts to be easy to fit....


& yes I fitted these as my standard 288mm discs I cooked on the famous A939 (local road to me)..so fitted the 312mm GTI/GTD set up..& these air guides..

The trouble with the standard air flow is that the duct under the bumper directs it to the wishbone, but the air stream passes across the wishbone & exits under the body.....the air guide directs it at the space between the calliper & hub into the central vented area of the disc...the air then exits the disc leading edge facing the inside of the wheel rim....thus you get more dirt on this.

Basically it cools the discs down better as you have air flowing more between the inner face & outer face solid parts of the brake disc...

[Wide]

You probably don't need disc ducted cooling though until you've already dealt with fluid and hoses and having some proper grippy pads to generate the heat already and of course some proper hard driving (which you won't do on the road at these levels). Only track driving will push OEM braking beyond its limits, you need continual max braking over like 20-30 mins of a track session before you'll see any noticeable fade on OEM gear.

90 euros down the drain I politely suggest...

I have and will drive on the track.

https://youtu.be/jHgkt8OspT8

The Brakes started burning after a tracksession due to bad cooling, so i think this part that is on some stock performance MQB car So i think this will help. After this i will go for the CS front Brakes.. 

Next time i will have Semi-slicks on the car, and then the brakes will be happy..

[Wide]

You probably don't need disc ducted cooling though until you've already dealt with fluid and hoses and having some proper grippy pads to generate the heat already and of course some proper hard driving (which you won't do on the road at these levels). Only track driving will push OEM braking beyond its limits, you need continual max braking over like 20-30 mins of a track session before you'll see any noticeable fade on OEM gear.

90 euros down the drain I politely suggest...

I agree. If improving braking performance is an actual worry then fluids and pads are where you are starting from. But I think by now from his description it sounds more like: "Where should I spend my 100eur monthly car budget for this month?"     rather than an actual brake performance worry. Longevity of the discs for public road use?? Not really a problem with the PP brakes I'd say...

@Wide: Just to be clear I am not discouraging you or anything! We all want to do stuff to our cars even if it's not actually required, that's absolutely fine! Looking forward to the installation.

The problem is that i will not start to mess with the Warrenty of the car. Therefore upgrade brakes will come later..

Stay tune to a fun video!..

[fredgroves]

How will semi slicks make a difference to brake heat? Ok, so they grip the road more, but you still have to effectively shed the same inertial energy, which gets turned into heat shed from the brake system.

CS front brakes aren't any different to the PP/R ones are they?

Even if they are, again, probably more logically swap the fluid, lines and pads first - because you'll be needing these for a big brake kit anyway.

I don't think those mods will affect the warranty anyway - well, apart from no warranty on pads and brake lines, which are unlikely fail points anyway.

[fredgroves]

BTW, brake line kit is ~100 euros, castrol srf fluid ~50 euros and some decent pads probably ~50 euros too...

Cheapy cheap cheap, probably something even i would do...

[golfdave]

The problem is that i will not start to mess with the Warrenty of the car. Therefore upgrade brakes will come later..

Stay tune to a fun video!..

CS brakes are the same size as PP & R, & R performance

Only difference is that the CS discs are two piece & 1kg lighter each..also specific friction material for pads...

R Performance uses the CS discs & pads & adds a silver coloured badge/cap thing to the calliper like the red CS & GTI/PP...

Callipers, carriers, hoses, servo etc all the same for above..

[fredgroves]

Full on brake replacement with performance calipers and lightweight swanky vented discs is super expensive. Sure its going to be epic but...

I once looked at doing it to a Focus we had (because Ford brakes suck d*ck) and after seeing the price decided i'd just slide on on two bits of cardboard with butter packs for pads...

Do insurance companies care about brake upgrades? Its safety afterall 

[Wide]

How will semi slicks make a difference to brake heat? Ok, so they grip the road more, but you still have to effectively shed the same inertial energy, which gets turned into heat shed from the brake system.

CS front brakes aren't any different to the PP/R ones are they?

Even if they are, again, probably more logically swap the fluid, lines and pads first - because you'll be needing these for a big brake kit anyway.

I don't think those mods will affect the warranty anyway - well, apart from no warranty on pads and brake lines, which are unlikely fail points anyway.

The Semi slick can kill the brakes because better traction!, google that.. 

And this type of Brake ducts is on the Porsche GT3, so i don´t think this type of cooling is so wrong..

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/429938-997-gt3-front-brake-ducts-and-cg-lock-installed.html

[Wide]

The problem is that i will not start to mess with the Warrenty of the car. Therefore upgrade brakes will come later..

Stay tune to a fun video!..

CS brakes are the same size as PP & R, & R performance

Only difference is that the CS discs are two piece & 1kg lighter each..also specific friction material for pads...

R Performance uses the CS discs & pads & adds a silver coloured badge/cap thing to the calliper like the red CS & GTI/PP...

Callipers, carriers, hoses, servo etc all the same for above..

Yes you are right  .

But what i have read from people that have upgrade to the CS brakes is much better, and this is the best upgrade you can do for the GTI.