ko3s boost figure

[shaft69]

APR seems to be very picky with.what components I fit, I'd say car performed better with original actuator. Also fitted n75j valve some months ago kept going into limp mode, also.tried n75h from mates car did same as soon as boost it 22-23psi limp mode. Have bought a race n75 of someone on here couple weeks back but not turned up yet ( be named and shamed if don't get money back). But going put standard actuator back on next week, it was making same boost as forge One anyway. Bloody cars eh!!!!

[DunnDeal12]

think n75 h and the n75 race valve is the same thing.

[Wazzzer]

think n75 h and the n75 race valve is the same thing.

Apparently so

[shaft69]

Ho well looks like need to invest in frankenturbo kit and badger5 map.

[Chris.]

It will make the same boost as forge, most chances are on the initial spike and 100-1500rpm after then start to drop off LOTS more.

Forge unit is able to hold the actuator shut to the maps request all the way across the rev range.

Have you actually done any duty cycle logs to see how its performing?  Gaurentee you that the forge unit will have less duty cycle instead of the stock one being maxxed out to try make top end power.

I dont know why APR are suggesting swapping back when they should know better to look at the logs in depth and see how its acting....any advice of a OEM unit being better than a very highly rated aftermarket upgrade would get me thinking about what they know.

Holding 12psi at redline is bloody good!  Dare bet at that moment your duty cycles are well into the high 80%DC?

[DunnDeal12]

It will make the same boost as forge, most chances are on the initial spike and 100-1500rpm after then start to drop off LOTS more.

Forge unit is able to hold the actuator shut to the maps request all the way across the rev range.

Have you actually done any duty cycle logs to see how its performing?  Gaurentee you that the forge unit will have less duty cycle instead of the stock one being maxxed out to try make top end power.

I dont know why APR are suggesting swapping back when they should know better to look at the logs in depth and see how its acting....any advice of a OEM unit being better than a very highly rated aftermarket upgrade would get me thinking about what they know.

Holding 12psi at redline is bloody good!  Dare bet at that moment your duty cycles are well into the high 80%DC?

sorry thats just daft swapping back to oem from a better unit, would adjusting the timing mess with the dyno figures?

[Chris.]

I never suggested swapping back to OEM?

Timing is what makes the power   it will have a HUGE influence on dyno figures.

[DunnDeal12]

I never suggested swapping back to OEM?

Timing is what makes the power   it will have a HUGE influence on dyno figures.

wasnt saying it to you chris was saying it was daft for APR to suggesting putting the oem actuator back on.

and i think shaft69 has been playing with his timing thats why i was asking if it would affect the boost readings on his dyno results.

[shaft69]

4.5deg of timing added so far can't adjust to much don't timing pull, at moment got hardly any pull with water Inj on. Found tho cranked OEM actuator boosted better than forge one, made more power with OEM one to. Getting v-tune loaded to APR map next thursday at psituning so have play with that.

[shaft69]

Just checking previous runs with OEM actuator cranked 3 turns was boosting 21psi with cranked forge 19psi, fitted n75j and was putting ecu into limp so with v-tune can raise boost by 130% so using j valve be ok. Which n75 gives more boost j or h??