Author Topic: Shaun's Rusty Bed On Wheels Takes Him Away On A Trip  (Read 49918 times)

Offline Horney

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Mine was a blue panel with a homebrew conversion. Sold it due to never using it after our honeymoon and used the money to buy the Golf.

nick

Offline SoundillusioN

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Mine was a blue panel with a homebrew conversion. Sold it due to never using it after our honeymoon and used the money to buy the Golf.

nick

Wise decision!  :laugh:

Offline Wayne

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Exhaust looks loads better, respect to you for fitting it sounds like it was a complete ballache.

Offline SoundillusioN

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Exhaust looks loads better, respect to you for fitting it sounds like it was a complete ballache.

When I realised I had access issues because of the quirky arrangement I had a quick gander at the Haynes manual.  I actually laughed when I read the guide.

All it says is something like, "Due to the various engine and exhaust designs that depend on the year and model of the vehicle, and the limited access to some of the mounting points, you may find removal and fitting rather difficult, especially if corroded.  Essentially it is chiefly held together with bolt on sections.  Look at the diagrams for reference.  Fitting is the reverse of removal."

Useful!  :rolleyes: 

The diagrams are exploded views of the various systems whilst not fitted, so barely any use at all.   :grin:

Offline Diamond Hell

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You'll find undoing the engine bar mounting bolts on either chassis rails will allow you to lower the engine and gearbox as a unit a fair bit, still connected at the front.

That would have given you a lot more access.

Oh well.  :grin:

It will run a lot better with a good exhaust system - the WBX likes a good, correctly sealed system on it very much.

You're just lucky that you weren't taking off the exhaust at the manifolds.  Those M8 nuts will be wasted away and the studs will probably shear and they're in a nice soft alloy head, which you do NOT want to take off!

Check the condition of the petrol pipes under the van and make sure they're good.  Losing the whole van to a fire would not be a good look and for the cost of a few hoses/bit of hardline it's a safety measure worth taking.

Having a camper is f*cking great.  We're desparate to get another one when funds allow.
Just because you're offended doesn't make you right.

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Offline Horney

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Also check the water pipes that run underneath and that your temperature guage works. The last thing you want to do is overheat one of these as you're into head off territory and as Tom has said above you DO NOT want to be going there.

Nick

Offline SoundillusioN

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You'll find undoing the engine bar mounting bolts on either chassis rails will allow you to lower the engine and gearbox as a unit a fair bit, still connected at the front.

That would have given you a lot more access.

Oh well.  :grin:

It will run a lot better with a good exhaust system - the WBX likes a good, correctly sealed system on it very much.

You're just lucky that you weren't taking off the exhaust at the manifolds.  Those M8 nuts will be wasted away and the studs will probably shear and they're in a nice soft alloy head, which you do NOT want to take off!

Check the condition of the petrol pipes under the van and make sure they're good.  Losing the whole van to a fire would not be a good look and for the cost of a few hoses/bit of hardline it's a safety measure worth taking.

Having a camper is f*cking great.  We're desparate to get another one when funds allow.

Damn it!... I did actually wonder if it was possible to lower the engine without too much hassle but assumed it would have been a ball ache, with hindsight it would have been nothing in comparison to what I ended up going through.  Runs so much better now I'm confident the exhaust system is tight.  (still not quite running as it should though)  :undecided:

I already noticed that the manifold nuts/studs don't look too pretty but thankfully all of the pipework looks pretty healthy, hopefully not something I will have to worry about in the near future, I'd like to think it would last the engines remaining lifespan.  :lipsrsealed:

Thankfully the van benefits from a brand new fuel tank, lines, and filter.  However, I have recently noticed that when the tank is brimmed I can smell vapour when driving for the first quarter of the tank it consumes. :huh:  After that its fine, I have checked everything I can see, lines, filler neck etc, any ideas?  Decent powder fire  extinguisher installed.

Yes they are great, even this old heap, starting to think I won't be able to live without one now.

Also check the water pipes that run underneath and that your temperature guage works. The last thing you want to do is overheat one of these as you're into head off territory and as Tom has said above you DO NOT want to be going there.

Nick

Water pipes have been replaced with plastic ones, common mod I believe, temp gauge is working perfectly, thankfully.

As with anything, I did do some research before viewing/purchasing albeit a little rushed (there's some great websites out there).  Thank you both for your pointers though as my knowledge on these is nowhere near what I have on the golf. 

I take it head work is a bi*ch on these then.

Will put a little list together in a bit with the good and bad bad points of this vehicle that I have discovered so far.
« Last Edit: 13 July 2012, 11:51 by SoundillusioN »

Offline Diamond Hell

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The WBX motors are great until you have to take the heads off.

Because it's an alloy block and head with steel head bolts there's bimetallic corrosion on the studs - they go brittle and snap, leaving the remains of the stud in the block. The only way of getting the remains of these studs out is pretty much spark-erosion.

The 16 litres of coolant should be changed every other year to try and minimise this corrosion (although probably a bit late to help yours too much!).  Changing the coolant will also prevent the rubber block to head seals from hardening and then starting to leak.

Drive it hard and regularly and it should continue running happily.  Pussyfoot around it and you're more likely to get problems.

Petrol fumes when the tank is full suggest there are breather pipe issues on top of the tank.  If you don't know if these have been replaced it would be worth dropping the tank and replacing the breather network.  While it's down make sure it's well painted on top, as the steel tanks on the 2WD vehicles can rust out on top.
Just because you're offended doesn't make you right.

Holiday cottages on the Isle of Wight for 2-10 people? PM me.

Offline SoundillusioN

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The WBX motors are great until you have to take the heads off.

Because it's an alloy block and head with steel head bolts there's bimetallic corrosion on the studs - they go brittle and snap, leaving the remains of the stud in the block. The only way of getting the remains of these studs out is pretty much spark-erosion.

The 16 litres of coolant should be changed every other year to try and minimise this corrosion (although probably a bit late to help yours too much!).  Changing the coolant will also prevent the rubber block to head seals from hardening and then starting to leak.

Drive it hard and regularly and it should continue running happily.  Pussyfoot around it and you're more likely to get problems.

Petrol fumes when the tank is full suggest there are breather pipe issues on top of the tank.  If you don't know if these have been replaced it would be worth dropping the tank and replacing the breather network.  While it's down make sure it's well painted on top, as the steel tanks on the 2WD vehicles can rust out on top.

I have been a little reluctant to rev the nuts off it despite the long gearbox ratios demanding me to, mainly because I've not had it long and have had little confidence in it, especially since I haven't performed any kind of service as yet and the mashed exhaust system hindering it's performance.

Now the exhaust is fixed I will give it some beans, especially after it's had an oil change.  (usually the first thing I do with any new vehicle). 

Although the body has seen better days (mostly because until now it spent it's whole life by the sea), I have been assured that the coolant and oil have always been changed with the correct grades regularly.  The previous owner was fully aware of the importance of using the correct coolant to avoid the internal erosion these wbx's are prone to, it seems to show signs of this care at least.

This arrived yesterday for the service I have planned for it next week.



Need to look up a cheap yet convenient source for oil, I believe it prefers 15w40 mineral.

Hmmm, when I spotted the shiny new tank I decided I wanted to paint it anyway, I did read that are prone to rusting quite rapidly due the moisture that gets trapped above it.  Will do this sooner rather than later then and check all the pipe work.

I need to get to the bottom of one last running issue now.  When driving, it hesitates at low RPM (pushing against a brick wall feeling) and once it gets to around 2.5-3 (estimated) it pulls well.  I suspect (hope) it's a timing issue. Lead's, dizzy, sparks, coil and Hall sender seem fine. Might be carb issues, can't even be ar5ed to go there!


Offline Horney

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I've been pondering about buying my old one back but I just don't have the space for it!

Nick