tight crank after new rings and shells?

[leigh_harty]

Put my pistons back in the block with new rings and conrod bearings and couldnt crank it over (by hand)

Took them all back out to check the rings and their all fine

Put piston 1 back in (closest to belt) and tightened it up and the crank is locked again, loosened it and it spun freely, tightened back up and locked again? 

Any ideas? bearings oiled up, new ones looked identical to old ones etc

[danny_p]

you've got a tight shell   measure the cranck and look at the bearing to see what size you have

[leigh_harty]

you've got a tight shell   measure the cranck and look at the bearing to see what size you have

How would i go about this?

Ive got brand new bearings and a crank with 200k on it (hence the reason to change)

[spikenipple]

You'll need an external micrometer to measure the crank and a bore mic to measure the bearing. Any machine shop/engineering firm should be able to do this for you.

[Bandit127]

Last (err - probably only) bottom end rebuild I did I found out the hard way that the bearings were all different sizes. That was a Ford Pinto. I had to play around for ages swapping them all around until it all worked.

I can't remember if it was mains, big ends or both.

I only found out later that they are colour coded...

[danny_p]

my betteing is he has .10 shells and std cranck size

or a slightly worn cranck and got .10 shells but the cranck needs a quick grind so it can run in them 

[DOA]

Look up plastiguage and get hold of some. Its a substance that squashes in a predictable manner and gives a pretty good indication of how much clearance there is in a joint and should give you an indication of where your problem lies without resorting to normal measuring equipment like Micrometers.

[dan2252]

a mate of mine rebuilt a 1.8t and this happend to him the new shells he got wernt genuine and caused it to go mega stiff he then used other he had laying around which were of better quality and it was back to normal!