what to do with crank

[danny_p]

cheers again danny p only reason i want my original bottom end is 1 its got loads of service history 2 engine number unless u got any ideas around this ?

working vw engines are like sleeping dogs,   if your new bottom end is sound pulling the cranck and swap it into another block for the fun of it is like tiping the dog out of one basket into another   it may well bite you. 

IMO you have two choices at the end of day

1)  take new bottom end, fit it and b done
2) take ether block and fully rebuild

obviously the 2nd is the better option but it costs to rebuild an engine properly, unless your going to modify it i'd just fit the new bottom end as is,  you chould obvious swap crank to keep the enigne number but in my book that just volantry extra work

[leeroy20vt]

head is off old engine and being cleaned do u think its worth having it skimmed ?? and were would u say to get headgasket gsf/euros ?

im goin to just put the new bottom end in i have so job done

then find a cheap crank/bottom end to rebuild my original at a later date

cheers for the help so far

[danny_p]

you chould get a straight edge and check it for distortion useing thou gadges and then clean the head up but the finish on the cyl head MLS gaskets is critical, they need to be flatter than with composit gaskets  i would advise to have it skimed, then you have the pice of mind knowing that you have a head thats truely flat and with a good surface finish it's allways good practice to skim alloy heads anyway,  it's also a pita if you have to redo a gasket for the sake of 30 quid

[leeroy20vt]

cheers again danny i would normally have it skimmed but would just thought i would ask it will hopefully be booked in for next week to have the skim once its stripped

well new bottom end all cleaned up and nearly ready to go in just got a few bits to do in the engine bay new steering rack boots and poly bushes for steering rack

also i have a servo out of a seat toledo 16v will this fit ?? any ideas as i still have the 1.3 servo on there with a mk3 16v m/c

[danny_p]

good question  i have no idea TBH

recently with brakes i've been tending to down grade servos,  to give more pedal feel  as found with light cars with big brakes the pedal can become very on / off affair and less servo assistance can help you modulate your brakeing more

[leeroy20vt]

Mayby il just leave the 1,3 in there then

i need to get some weight over the rear so washer bottle and battery relocation is in order that may stop the back from bein a little twitchy

[leeroy20vt]

should there be any play in the shells from side to side theres none up and down if that makes sense

[danny_p]

the cranck is held by thrust washeres so there should be littel to no play side to side,    the con rods you can push side to side a bit thast normal as there floating

[leeroy20vt]

Yer con rods have a little side to side movement crank is all gd cheers dannyp

[Veronica]

I purchased a 1972 t120v motor that was rebuilt. The motor was locked up and the reason was unknown. I pulled the top end and it was new and looked perfect. It was not untill I got to the point where I unbolted the case halfs that the crank would turn free. The bearings and all look great. I have tried to install the crank in the cases but as they are tightened down, the crank will lock up. What do you think? wrong bearings? Too much torque on the bolts? The bearings seem to be installed correctly. Should I buy a new crank? Help please!