GTI cutting out, oil light flashes

[G60GTI16V]

anyone knows why my oil lights flashing... i have not yet looked at it so thought id ask, someone might know.

the oil light flashes when over 1500rpm i changed the sensor that is screwed into the right side of the cyclinder head with spade conn and rubber cover still oil flashes. i have it disconnected as this stops the light flashing? the oil mfa works still with this disconnected. is there another sensor i have missed, what about the one that is threaded into the part where the oil filter threads to..
many thanks

[kells]

maybe just dodgey wiring tp the sensor matey, pretty common tbh

[Kenny_1.6]

anyone knows why my oil lights flashing... i have not yet looked at it so thought id ask, someone might know.

the oil light flashes when over 1500rpm i changed the sensor that is screwed into the right side of the cyclinder head with spade conn and rubber cover still oil flashes. i have it disconnected as this stops the light flashing? the oil mfa works still with this disconnected. is there another sensor i have missed, what about the one that is threaded into the part where the oil filter threads to..
many thanks

same problem i had... you've probably been given the wrong pressure sensor... there are 2 sensors on my 1.6, one blue, one white. they are all colour coded and tbh, it was a pain in the ass getting the correct one because the people at the VW dealer here in Aberdeen insisted they had given me the correct one and they hadnt.  anyway, i had the same thing, anything over 1500rpm and light would flash, finally got the right sensors after alot of arguing with the VW people and all is well 

[jaybee]

The woes, the woes,

Methinks that at some stage on the AGG assembly line in deepest darkest Germany Helmut's missus vas sleepink vit the zoopervisor und he decided to get his rewenge on all the poor saps who would buy these piece of sh!tz engines he vas buildink!!

To recap

3 Months ago stopped halfway through a 300 mile journey, car never started again, had it towed to local garage, spent two days trying to find what was wrong, finally started, he had done nothing to it so he charge me very little as he couldn'y say what was wrong!

Much tearing out of hair, had a shoofty on here, replaced relay no 30 (ecu)

All good, not a bother from then 'till on motorway on ramp at rush hour

foot down up to about 65, then nada, just like everyone else on here, waited 15 mins, theh she started up, managed to limp home by every time it stalled dumping the clutch as if I was getting a push start, and left foot braking the rest of the time to keep the foot on the throttle(if the revs are kept above 2000 she wont stall) hair raising stuff I tell you!!

Have cleaned the throtlte body, and have a new oil breather pipe en route, will also order a 167 Fuel Pump Relay.

The car has a new dizzy in it, and when I bought it 6 months ago the guy told me it'd just had a new Crankshaft Position sensor in it.

I'm going to trade it in soon, but I want it to be running for when I do, I can't afford to ever get stranded again as it cost me work (anyone had any experience with the Audi a3 tdi quattro...)

Meanwhile, does anyone know if it is normal for a relay to get warm when the car is running....??

My new no.30 (which is the grey made in germany one) is always warm when I feel it after stalling...

If this is normal I can get on with the other stuff, if not I need to find out why it's getting warm

Best of luck to all you 97 git (sic) owners out there may you never encounter this problem!!

[barbara]

Hiya - I have a Golf Estate GL, P-reg, fuel injection... 2L

It cuts out when slowing down at junctions/traffic lights etc...
the oil light doesn't flash.
I took my car to the garage (prior to finding this fantastic forum) and they have cleaned out the mass air flow valve (I think that that is what it is called) and they now suggest that I replace the throttle body (which is too expensive for me - he quoted £400 for the part)...
I've written down all the options that have been discussed in this forum (see below), but do not know what to do next. I didn't want to go along and tell the garage their job etc.  I'm not experienced with engines at all - from what I've heard I can probably replace the relays... How do you clean the throttle body - is it easy or does the garage have to do it?
How about the cam belt, can that be tested without taking it out etc? (I had a new one put in a year ago when I bought the car).
I live in Formby - about 13 miles north of Liverpool (along the coast)... - are their any garages around here that would know how to proceed, I don't think my garage has come across this before...

1. relay 30 (Hall sender relay) to be replaced
2. fuel relay replaced
3. crank sensor
4. distributer
5. throttle body dirty (clean it or replace it)
6. engine speed control
7. clean or get new oil breather pipe (and other pipes)
8. cam belt one notch out

many thanks for your help...

[admc6]

I have had, and again having this problem. The first time i had the hall sender replaced (on the distributor) and also the crank angle sensor/engine speed sensor. This seemed to be the solution.
My local vw dealer thought it was a problem with the fuel relay, but that didnt fix it. Most people recommend changing this and the ecu relay. About 12 quid each from vw.
I'm oing for a new distributor cap and rotor arm next. It looks a bit worn. They are about 12 and 6 quid.
You might also want to check there is no moisture on your ht leads (the ones to and from distributor).
As for the throttle body, it is really easy to clean, and doesnt take long.
You just unclip the air hose from it and spray some carb cleaner in and if its really bad just use an old tooth brush to rub the bits of dirt away. It will just burn off then next time you have it running.

If i was you, i would go for the cheaper options first, and these you could do yourself without to much trouble.

Hope this helps

[barbara]

cheers for your help admc6, I'll let you know how I get on.....

[KingPin]

Hey Guys ive posted in here about the same problem but I just need a direction to go in now as im running out of money Patience and time as I want to sell her soon

Mine cuts out same as everyone around 80 degrees ish then will sometimes start again straight away and sometimes ill have to wait a while! Will usually start straight off from a jump (odd?) I have so far

Cleaned the Throttle out
New Disi and Rotor arm
No 30 relay (ecu)
No 167 relay (Fuel pump)
New Ignition Coil

Im about to change all the HT leads and plugs

please can someone maybe point me in the next cheapest/most likely direction please

Thanks

[Kenny_1.6]

KingPin, sounds like the Hall Sensor, exactly what happened to mine in the past week. rather annoying 

[shlee2202]

To everyone having this problem i have been getting annoyed with my car cutting out, so i looked at the no30 relay and i took it apart.
Inside there is a braided wire that has been shorting out due to lack of insulation.
I have a friend that works in a VW garage and asked him to (borrow) a few new no30 relay's and they all had the same problem no insulation around the braided cable so my guess is that a new one lasts for a while then starts to short out as the cable loosens up.

i have had no problems since insulating to cable inside the relay so i suggest to anybody thats feels comfortable opening there's to have a go at it as its cheaper (free) to fix if any body needs more info as to what i have done then please let me know.

Hope you all find this helpful.