HELP wont start after engine rebuild!!!

[elnigel]

Hi ive just spent 2 years reboring my engine and restoring it, put everything back together and it wont fire.

AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Ive got fuel and it turns over ok, when i check the spark against the block it seems to spark as you turn the key but then no further sparks

Any ideas, im soooooooo annoyed

its an 89 digifant 8v golf by the way

Thanks everyone

[rubjonny]

Knackered ignition switch perhaps?  Set it to the ignition position then jump the starter motor, or bump start it

[elnigel]

it turns over, it just wont spark. any ideas

pppppllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaassssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[free]

u sure timings rite

[rubjonny]

Fit a new rotor arm & dizzy cap, then check the ht leads then the coil.

[elnigel]

rotor, dizzy n leads ok, it gives one spark as you turn the key but then nothing,

how do you check the coil?

i thought if the coil was knackered it wouldnt spark at all

thanks for your help

 

[rubjonny]

Dunno   From the Haynes:

Coil - testing 2
1 The coil is located on the bulkhead under
the plenum chamber (see illustration). It
should be periodically wiped clean to prevent
HT voltage loss through possible arcing.
2 To ensure that the correct HT polarity at the
spark plugs, the coil LT leads must always be
connected correctly. The ignition lead from
the fusebox must be connected to the
positive (+) terminal 15, and the distributor
lead (usually green) must be connected to the
negative (-) terminal 1. Incorrect connections
can cause bad starting, misfiring, and short
spark plug life.
3 Complete testing of the coil requires special
equipment. However, if an ohmmeter is
available, the primary and secondary winding
resistances can be checked and compared
with those specified. During testing, the LT
and HT wires must be disconnected from the
coil.
4 To test the primary winding, connect the
ohmmeter between the two LT terminals. To
test the secondary winding, connect the
ohmmeter between the negative (-) terminal 1
and the HT terminal.

[elnigel]

will try testing it in the morning, thanks mate

Fingers crossed!!!

[rubjonny]

Oh and you'll need the coil specs:

Pre August 1987:
Primary winding resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.52 to 0.76 ohm
Secondary winding resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2400 to 3500 ohm

From August 1987:
Primary winding resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 to 0.8 ohm
Secondary winding resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6900 to 8500 ohm

[mk1]

Check for spark when cranking, if there is no spark unplug distributer and check for voltage on outer 2 wires and if ok rest h.t lead near earth, get a piece of wire and earth one end and touch centre pin on the distributer plug, you should get a good spark when you touch it on and off. If you do, replace the hall sensor in the distributer, if not suspect module or coil etc. Hope this helps.
Steve.