K Jet DX Engine not starting

[Wayne]

Hi Danny,

Sorry I should have said that I did that and it feels like it is at TDC. What I might do tomorrow is turn the crank so the crank pulley mark lines up with the arrow and look to see if any marks are showing on the flywheel.

However what can I do about not being able to set engine at 6d BTDC ? Is there any other way without using the flywheel markings for it?

Does the video I posted show a good spark?

Yes looks ok 

[danny_p]

spark looks fine to me.

reason i' don't like the fact that the timeing makks on flywheel and frount pully don't like up is that they allways should iirc  on a T25 the mark is in the flywheel itself and it can only go round one way so the frount v belt pully is prob on in the wrong place not a magor issue but anoying.  so just worth a check can save headbanging

if there ok, you have spark, you have enough compression,    fire easy start at it if it dosent go spark timeing is out.


sometimes i find the easyest way to get these engines going well enough to time them up is just to remove plug number 1,  set the engine to tdc and just wiggel the dizzt back and forth so plug number sparks,

then put the plug back in and gently move the dizzy about while cranking, if the engine coughs and pauses when cranking  it's to advance if it fires but won't self sustain or very reluctnt to rev it's  to retarded

to set it to 6 btdc  you'll be needing an addjustable timeing gun set it to 6 deg adavnce and when the tdc marks line up  in the strobe it's 6 degrees advanced

[bmouthboyo]

Typical, I ordered a cheap (£17) timing light2 days ago, non adjustable

I will be cleaning the fuel system, tank etc soon and filling it with some fresh fuel due to time it has been sitting.

Even with the not great compression it should at leasat try to fire up hopefully. I'' update when progress made.

Thanks guys

[Alec]

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=179338.0

 

[bmouthboyo]

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=179338.0

 

My engine is a DX so parts wise wont work? I have asked about the injectors. Would they fit?

I am in dorset. If I was ever to need a new engine would a swap from a DX to a PB be easy?

[rubjonny]

the PB block is the same as the DX one, but nothing else in the list will be any good for you

if you can get some kind of TDC mark on the flywheel you can make your own BTDC mark using a bit of maths, though you need to know the diameter of the flywheel.  if its similarsize  to a 210mm mk2 flywheel then you can use the MK2 EV measurements in the haynes manual.

but tbh with these once the static timing is sorted you can tune em by ear, give em more advance then drive, repeat till it starts to pink then back off.

[bmouthboyo]

ah thats good news rj!

I will try and find out more about the gearbox from the T25 forums and the original vehical documents.

I was also wondering if I could use piston travell instead of degree on flywheel. I.e measure when piston 1 drops the specific distance and use that. All irrelevent at moment until I get it running anyway so will report back.

This weekend I am going to:

• Flush fuel tank with ample fresh fuel
• Remove the grotty small inline filter (btw is it ok to do this? I read that Kjet has a small in-line filter before the pump but many people on forums said rid of it???)
• Adjust the CO screw on the metering head to make it a little richer / hopefully deliver fuel on crank.
• If mulitmeter is here in time I will check electrics for 5th injector, thermotimer, WURand the extra air valve thingy

[rubjonny]

mk2s dont use an inline filter, but they do have a little mesh thingy on the end of the in-tank pump. this could well be the cause of all your problems if there is no lifter pump in the tank, the main pump might be struggling to suck fuel thru the filter?

[bmouthboyo]

The tank is the original T25 one with the outlet at the bottom. I will tear the old gammy filter off:



I was guessing that because fuel was being delivered when manually lifting the air meter flap that the pump must be fine but I guess it can still pump it with less pressure, just needs the flap lifted higher.

I'll get that little filter off, was just worried that 7 years of fuel tank nearly empty might have a lot of crap I want to stay away from the pump and metering head! But I guess the main filter will do a good job of stopping anything too nasty.

Thanks

[bmouthboyo]

Ok a productive day...

I replaced the HT leads as they were a little scabby, distrbutor cap and rotor arm.

At GSF they gave me a different rotor arm. I asked them to double check, DX enging K jet etc etc and they said it was right part.

The one on when I got the van is the fatter one. Will this make a difference? I am thinking might just keep old one on.



Anyway after a bloody age getting the injectors back into there collets ( angle of engine in T25 is not pleasing for this) I adjusted the CO2 screw on the metering head progressively and.... She bloody started

A very rough idle and had a little white smoke which smelt of petrol.

I wanted to remove the crap mini in-line filter but the 8mm fuel hose I ordered wont work as the filter to tank is 8mm but the inlet on the pump is much bigger. I am assuming a 12mm ?



So new Questions:

Should I use the larger rotor arm of the smaller one from GSF?

When setting the CO2 on a K Jet, do I simply keep making the mix leaner until it wont start then a very small amount richer untill it does? (obviously needs co2 meter but for time being)

How would I install a fuel hose from the 12mm pump inlet to the 8mm fuel tank fixing?

Thank you All