K Jet DX Engine not starting

[Alec]

Like Shaun said in your other thread about the core plug, I'd be testing compression just in case. Only takes a few mins and might end up saving you hours of fault finding in other areas.

I don't think the cooling system needs to be full of water to cause damage when it freezes.

[rubjonny]

no you dont bypass the thermotime switch, that wont work. you need to take the wire from the 5th injector out of the plug and earth it, that will rule out the thermoswitch.  basically its the path to ground for the 5th injector, it earths the wire thru itself to the block. the 2nd wire is a heater which is fed from the starter cranking live, so the path to ground is broken if it cranks over for ages, so as to not flood the engine.

apart from that your diagram above is correct, next step would be to test if the 2nd terminal on the starter actually goes live when cranking, use a test light if you dont ahve a starter motor. 1 terminal to the starter, the other to earth somewhere.

to bridge 5th injectro, put 1 wire to battery +ve, and the other to battery -ve. crank it over and it should spray fuel, if there isnt enough pressure in the lines already when you bridge it

[bmouthboyo]

Hi rubjonny thankyou for the help.

I am al ittle confused, the diagram above is how the previous owner has wired my engine. Is it wrong?

Bridging the thermotimer wires was what the haynes manual said to do to test the 5th injector. Does it matter which way round the wires are on the 5th injector and thermotimer?

[rubjonny]

the picture is fine
haynes has got the test wrong, you deffo dont bridge the pins as you would just end up with live to both sides of the 5th injector, you need to earth the wire from the 5th inj to the thermoswitch to bypas it

[bmouthboyo]

Ok guys I had a go at a compression test with engine COLD (doesn't start). Now their may have been a little fuel in the cylinders but by the last one they looked dry when i shone torch in.

Results from year and half ago:                                    143 - 151 - 151 - 153
Results from today (may have had little fuel in cylinder):  154 - 192 - 170 - 180
2nd time:                                                                   130 - 160 - 140 - 172
3rd time:                                                                   150 - 154 - 140 - 170

I had the head skimmed and new gasket I think after the test a year and half ago.

Does this look like a problem? And could it be causing my non start? On another thread I posted about a core plug that seems to have come out, but as I have hardly any coolant (water) in the system I am surprised if it was ice so wondered if Head Gasket?

I also checked the 5th Injector by earthing the wire that would go into the thermotimer as in my diagram. But this again did not cause the cold start to spray on crank. Will test with multimeter when I have mine delivered.

Any ideas no what to do next? Are those compression tests worrying?

Thanks

[bmouthboyo]

Ok so I checked a few things when home from work today (roll on longer summer days)

I firstly checked the timing was all ok and if it is causing low compression results and non start. All seemed ok following rj's timing guide.

My markings:



Now as this is in a T25 camper I think the gear box is the original diesel one, but I know very little about it etc. But looking through the service catch I can not see 6Degree BTDC marking. I am also not entirely sure the tippex mark is the TDC as I may have marked that last year just to ensure it is all the same when refitting head.

When looking at my crank pulley marks it didn't seem to match up at all with the one on the plastic casing:



I also checked one of my spark clubs to see if it has a strong spark. (tested on crank):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjZirpmw0VY

I realised after that I was meant to have it touching the block. Does this make this test useless? If not does that spark look to be working correctly. I thought it seemed a little weak and irregular. I have ordered some new HT leads as need replacing anyway and will to Rotor Arm, Dizzy cap and possibly coil if you think its needed?

So questions :
Is my timing correct?
How will I set to 6 Degree BTDC without the marking on flywheel?
Matter that my crank pulley is not lined up with the mark?
Does the spark from spark plug look fine?

I know this is a bit of a long thread but I am really great full for all your help so far.

Thanks 

[Wayne]

Compressions seem low 

You might be better to lift the head and have a look.

[bmouthboyo]

Hi Wayne,

Lift the head and look for what? I had it removed last year to have exhaust stud removed and had head skimmed. It has only run a little in idle over a year ago just after refitting it. For the past year and half it has sat still. I am a little reluctant to remove it at this stage as that's another gasket, head bolts (£50) and at moment I cannot even get it started. Once I get it going I will consider removing head if after doing compression test at running temp they are still low.

Any idea regarding questions above?

Cheers

[danny_p]

remove plug number one  and poke a rod down the hole and rock the cranck back and forth  see if the rod drops ether side of what you currently think is TDC,

if it dosent use the rod to roughtly find whitch TDC mark is colsest and then use that,   the worry is that as the timeing marks on the frount pully and and the flywheel don't agree so in such situations it's best to physicaly check where the pistons are

[bmouthboyo]

Hi Danny,

Sorry I should have said that I did that and it feels like it is at TDC. What I might do tomorrow is turn the crank so the crank pulley mark lines up with the arrow and look to see if any marks are showing on the flywheel.

However what can I do about not being able to set engine at 6d BTDC ? Is there any other way without using the flywheel markings for it?

Does the video I posted show a good spark?