1) 8v box will suffer long term with the power of the ABF. Why are you not using the 02A from the ABF? It's a stronger, cable change rather than rod change box, changing the setup to cables is pretty easy.
2) You need ABF ECU, ABF engine, ABF wiring loom and the immobilizer chip from the ABF key, along with the ABF immobilizer box and the magnetic ring around the ignition. Clocks are the same, I run 8v clocks on my 16v (I too converted from 8v to 16v).
3) 8v has shorter 3rd and 4th gears, with a final drive very slightly shorter. Meaning 8v box will max out before the 16v box (16v for more top speed).
4) Mounts are exactly the same.
5) I think any ABF will work, but don't jump the gun just yet. Let someone else confirm.
6) All of the loom, except the lighting loom, that's the same. Do loom work when engine is out of the car as you need to remove brake servo to access the hole through the firewall.

16v loom at the bottom of the screen, 8v loom at the top. Careful when feeding the connectors through the firewall, don't break any or pull any wires off.
Danny_p was there to sort out immobilizer problems we ran into (Diamond Hell, Danny_p and myself doing the conversion).
The 16v immobilizer box, ignition magnetic ring and key were installed. I use my 8v key on the ignition, but the 16v key and ignition ring are tied together so it starts up.
We started on a Saturday at about midday and finished Sunday at around midnight, so about 36 hours in total (with about 10 hours or so rest of course). Danny and DH knew what they were doing as they've done ABF conversions in the past hence a quick time but to be honest it's pretty straight forward. While engine is out (maybe on an engine crane) do clean out the engine compartment, as it's one of those jobs best done with he engine out

Also service the 16v engine while everything is easy access (water pump, cambelt and tensioner, any repair work on the loom). At least change the cambelt for peace of mind.
Oh and PAS system is all the same, so no need to remove the system, just move it out the way (keep the cap on the PAS fluid tank if you want to keep the current fluid, just move the tank and pump out of the way while swapping engines).
All the best, and here is the album of the conversion, gives a rough idea at the work involved.
http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh115/kharekatoh/conversion/?start=0