Author Topic: swapping engine only 8v to 16v  (Read 3422 times)

Offline dlongmu

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swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« on: 23 September 2010, 01:45 »
OK, I've read through the massive FAQ which is brilliant. I want to clarify a couple of points though.

1) Planning to use the enigne on the 8v box, should I use the 8v clutch or the 16v clutch, and can I retain the standard clutch mech?
2) If I get a 16v engine, ECU and gauges is it basically a matter of plugging it in and firing her up? Anything else necessary?
3) Does the 8v box have shorter ratios?
4) Whats the situation with mounts?
5) I have an obd2 I believe (its a 97) would I require a late ABF engine or would any work?
6) How much of the loom needs swapped out and how awkward can this get? any Picture step-by-steps on the wiring or is it fairly straight forward?

Cheers for help guys! This seems by far and large the cheapest way to get some bang for buck until I can afford the time to try a serious conversion ;)

Offline dlongmu

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #1 on: 23 September 2010, 01:51 »
Sorry one more question - Ibiza ABF and golf ABF any differences there? Seen some vids of ibiza cupras they seem a bit quicker than the mk3 gti 16valvers, perhaps its just down to weight?

Offline Wayne

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #2 on: 23 September 2010, 07:59 »
Ibiza and Golf ABF's I believe are the same.

Have a read of this thread: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=124485.0

Offline Khare

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #3 on: 23 September 2010, 10:34 »
1) 8v box will suffer long term with the power of the ABF. Why are you not using the 02A from the ABF? It's a stronger, cable change rather than rod change box, changing the setup to cables is pretty easy.

2) You need ABF ECU, ABF engine, ABF wiring loom and the immobilizer chip from the ABF key, along with the ABF immobilizer box and the magnetic ring around the ignition. Clocks are the same, I run 8v clocks on my 16v (I too converted from 8v to 16v).

3) 8v has shorter 3rd and 4th gears, with a final drive very slightly shorter. Meaning 8v box will max out before the 16v box (16v for more top speed).

4) Mounts are exactly the same.

5) I think any ABF will work, but don't jump the gun just yet. Let someone else confirm.

6) All of the loom, except the lighting loom, that's the same. Do loom work when engine is out of the car as you need to remove brake servo to access the hole through the firewall.



16v loom at the bottom of the screen, 8v loom at the top. Careful when feeding the connectors through the firewall, don't break any or pull any wires off.

Danny_p was there to sort out immobilizer problems we ran into (Diamond Hell, Danny_p and myself doing the conversion).
The 16v immobilizer box, ignition magnetic ring and key were installed. I use my 8v key on the ignition, but the 16v key and ignition ring are tied together so it starts up.

We started on a Saturday at about midday and finished Sunday at around midnight, so about 36 hours in total (with about 10 hours or so rest of course). Danny and DH knew what they were doing as they've done ABF conversions in the past hence a quick time but to be honest it's pretty straight forward. While engine is out (maybe on an engine crane) do clean out the engine compartment, as it's one of those jobs best done with he engine out  :grin: Also service the 16v engine while everything is easy access (water pump, cambelt and tensioner, any repair work on the loom). At least change the cambelt for peace of mind.
Oh and PAS system is all the same, so no need to remove the system, just move it out the way (keep the cap on the PAS fluid tank if you want to keep the current fluid, just move the tank and pump out of the way while swapping engines).

All the best, and here is the album of the conversion, gives a rough idea at the work involved.

http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh115/kharekatoh/conversion/?start=0

Offline Len

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #4 on: 23 September 2010, 10:54 »
Save yourself a whole lot of trouble and buy another car which is a 16v! :rolleyes:
Mystic Blue Mk3 16v + Black Mk5 Gti 05 plate + Peugeot 405 Mi16

www.sas.org.uk
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Offline tobybrennan

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #5 on: 23 September 2010, 11:12 »
Save yourself a whole lot of trouble and buy another car which is a 16v! :rolleyes:

i see were still not getting anywhere

people like to do engine conversions for the sheer fact

*its a learning curve and an interesting one at that
*they've spent a heck of a lot on the car and love the look and wanna go all out and have something they've built not brought ;)
*buying a 16v there just going to have to start again and spend more

i think the guy knows buying a 16v would be easier, but thats not what hes asking is it  :smiley:

Offline rubjonny

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #6 on: 23 September 2010, 11:23 »
1. 020 will cope, just. as long as you dont uprate the power, and keep any wheel spinning and slaming it away from the lights to a minimum

2. as above, but you can use pre-96 abf loom + ecu and this will avoid any immob issues. clocks ideally fit 16v ones but as above 8v ones work fine, just redline in wrong spot

4. as above, but buy new abf ones anyway while engine out

5. some mk3 engine looms have the lighting loom bundled in with it, check out what you have and make sure you get the same type

6. just the engine loom, but if your loom is combined with lighting loom as per 5 above, you'll need to remove everything

as a side note to the immob issue above, since your car has an immob already all you need if you get a post-96 immob abf loom+ecu is the ecu, you dont need anything else.  vag-com can be used to match the abf ecu with your existing immob box + keys :)
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline dlongmu

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #7 on: 23 September 2010, 12:38 »
Sounds good to me! As for the clutch do I keep 8v if using the 8v box? The box and clutch are currently in good order so see little reason to change for the moment (I drive like miss daisy anyway, also the shorter ratio sounds like a bonus).

When you's say the entire loom except lighting, I guess you mean exterior lighting? We don't touch the interior loom do we?

What about MAF/intake tract do I  need that from the ABF too? I have a hitachi MAF on the 8v.

Do I need to take the box out or once unbolted and slid away from the engine should I be able to slide the engine up and past?

Buying a 16v isn't an option, I'm in the highlands, they are hard to find, and if I did I'd have to pay top money for it. As somebody else has mentioned I know the common-sense approach but have already spent money on this golf so it's stayin  :grin:

Final query is on the exhaust, with the exhaust manifold being at the rear of the block I suppose it's a case of unbolting the manifold at the lowest point and taking that out with the engine?

Cheers all for your awesome help!



Offline polo6n222

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #8 on: 23 September 2010, 13:05 »
i think u have to use 8v clutch and fly wheel

Offline Len

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Re: swapping engine only 8v to 16v
« Reply #9 on: 23 September 2010, 13:27 »
Its just pointless and stupid! :rolleyes:
Mystic Blue Mk3 16v + Black Mk5 Gti 05 plate + Peugeot 405 Mi16

www.sas.org.uk
www.the-ace.org.uk