ABF into CE1 - She fliessss :D

[rubjonny]

i think ign switch is playing up, or the wiring isnt quite right. the coil should be on an ignition live feed so when you switch off the ignition there shouldn't be any spark!

ecu relay should be wired up like so:
86 - ign live
30 - live
85 - earth
87 - ecu pin 23
86A - ecu pin 9

black wires should generally be ignition live. ecu should see ign live to pin 38 as well. oh and the red wire to pin 7 should see a starter motor live. fuel pump relay pin 85 should be connected to pin 6 on the ecu, and thats about it for the ecu fusebox connections

[fishnchipsx2]

Hmmmm... have just been out to triple-check, and everything is as you say it should be.  I have checked the switch with a multimeter, and it operates as it should.   

From the ECU relay:
Disconnecting pin86 doesn't stop it.
Even earthing pn86 doesn't stop it.
Disconnecting pin87 DOES stop it.

All of my black ignition wires (coil etc) and fuel pump relay trigger tap their power off pin87.

I'm confused as to why  the ECU relay doesn't cut power from pin87 when pin86 is disconnected!  However, it DOES cut power when the engine isn't running, it's only when the engine IS running that this weird behaviour occurs.

My suspicions lie with pin86A (to ECU pin9).  What exactly does this do?  Maybe when the engine is running, this keeps the relay energised, regardless of pin86's status?

Of course I could install a heavy-duty killswitch in a main power cable, but that's not exactly the most elegant option!

[fishnchipsx2]

OK, think I've got it figured.  The engine will turn off if I kill the switch AND disconnect pin86a.

Here's my theory:
The relay only needs +12v from either 86, 86a, or both to be energised.
When the engine is running, the ECU gives 86a +12v. 
In a normal car, turning off at the key will put ECU pin38 to 0v.
The ECU senses that pin38 has lost power, so it puts 0v to 86a, thereby turning itself off.
Problem is, in my car, pin38 won't lose power until ECU relay is de-energised (and ECU relay won't de-energise until pin38 loses power)

So what I'll do is put pin38 to my switch, I'll let you know how it goes!

[rubjonny]

the pin 86a on the relay is kinda an ign live 'bypass' thru the relay, it is connected internally to pin 86. so when 86 is live, so is 86a.
you dont really need 86a on the relay, you could splice pin 9 on the ecu direct to an ign live feed if you wanted. I have done it this way on a CE1 digifant ABF conversion, because there is no pin on the ecu socket for 86a on the CE1 fusebox.

if disconnecting pin 86 doesnt switch off the ecu relay, i think something isnt quite right with the relay wiring, or the relay is bust (you are using a 30 relay right?) what happens if you pull the relay out? does the relay click when the ignition is switched on and off?

[fishnchipsx2]

Right, my theory wasn't quite right... but I've sorted it now anyway.

Now that you say it, splicing pin9 direct to an ignition live would work - I wasn't sure how vital the pin86a is tho, so I've just wired another switch between pin9 and pin86a.

And hey, b!tches like switches, don't they?   

Now just gotta wait for my 4-branch to be welded, swap the driveshafts, and tidy up a few bodged fuel/vacuum/coolant lines 

[rubjonny]

yeah in the long term just splice 86a wire to an ign live feed, should sort you out. then you could use a mk2 digifant 32 relay rather than 30 if you wanted/needed to

[fishnchipsx2]

After a couple of weeks of little to no work on the truck, I finally got my manifold back, so I spent all day today in the pissing rain bolting up the manifold, driveshafts, etc

Took her out for a spin   

  I need f*cking bigger brakes 

It's way too much fun 

Problem is, after a few outings, she now won't start    Just makes a 1-second attempt to fire then gives up.  I know this will scream 'IMMOBILISER' to most of you, but I can't see anything wrong.  However, it's dark, so I will be surer tomorrow.

Possibly-related question: there is a small vacuum next to where the ISV plugs in that I found (hadn't blocked it off, altho didn't seem to affect driving at all!) What is the normal purpose for this?  In fact the only vacuums I'm using are for brake servo and ECU as well as fuel-pressure regulator thingy, leaving a small vacuum and a large vacuum next to the throttle body blocked off in addition to the one by the ISV. 

NB: I have no airbox or filter yet, just the main rubber pipe and ISV pipe left open (makes a good noise tho  )

[Diamond Hell]

I need f*cking bigger brakes 

Ahem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQ7VLoY7bQ

[Neo Badness]

I need f*cking bigger brakes 

Ahem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQ7VLoY7bQ

 

[fishnchipsx2]

 

Well now that I have transport, I can get down to the scrappies on my next day off to rob an unsuspecting Vauxhall of its brakes!  I also already have a mk2 22mm master+servo waiting to be picked up by me. 

Someone I know will be cutting up a cabby soon, so I can rob the anti-rollbar brackets off that, and teamed up with my lower strutbrace (front a-arm mounts on mk1s wobble all over the place ) I should be slightly safer 

Oh... also a pair of new (well, 2nd-hand) tyres on the way to be fitted when I get tracking done.

Anyone got thoughts on the non-starting? I'm looking forward to putting the truck to use again  http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10150216275895438