sound (calling all ice experts)

[dirtrider212002]

Just thinking at the moment but i am getting a new head unit for christmas and i am looking at what install i can do on my mk2. I am getting this headunit JVC KD-R801 because i like the idea of bluetooth conectivity for my phone/handsfree. basically i want a powerful but discrete sound system and i was wandering if the idea i have had would be a good one. To start off with i would like to keep the standard size 3.5 inch and 4x6 speakers running off the headunit but upgrade the to the jbl size equivalants. Then i would like to get or make some standard looking 5 or 6 inch size door pocket surrounds and speakers. I would then like a sub in the boot that was easily removable i was going to build one into side and somehow have it on connectors so i can remove it when i put my longboards or mountainboards in the boot. As for the amplifier i was looking at this one
( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VIBE-SLICK-A3-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP-4-MULTI-CHANNEL-1300W_W0QQitemZ260512764934QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Audio_TV_Electronics_In_Car_Entertainment_GPS_Car_Amplifiers_PP?hash=item3ca7c55406 )
and i was wandering if i could enclose it in an mdf box under the rear seats and use a brushless linear amplifier cooling fan to remove the heat and duct it away. The amplifier would power the two front door speakers and the sub.
My concerns are wether the amplifier will fit under the rear seats and if it will overheat. Also can you easily on a 4 channel amp power the subwoofer and 2 front door speakers off it using my headunit etc. Also do you think i will need a capacitor for that power amp to stop the surge.
Finally i would like to know if you can get quick connect speaker cable atachments so as to allow the subwoofer and box to be easily removed by just splitting the speaker cables and carrying it away.
Any help would be greatly apreciated as i realy wana get my sound system sorted ive gone too long wiv poo speakers lol  .
Thanks Nathan

[troublestarter]

i really would not recommend putting the amp under the seat as it will not dissipate the heat and will eventually keep turning itself off
don't waste your money on a power cap they look pretty but serve no real purpose
with regards to removing the sub box get a neutrik connector like this
http://www.neutrik.co.jp/connect/powercon/powercon.jpg
the h/u will be fine on the amp and it will run the fronts and the sub perfectly

[DanoGTI]

Echo everything Troublestarter has said

Those Neutrik connectors are fantastic

Their proper name is "Speakons" - used widely in Live Sound / PA for connecting amps to speaker cabinets. Didn't know about the use of power down them too, so I've learned something too!

Be warned though, they are a bit of a sod to get your head round when first using them - they are a locking connector, and as such if not locked properly, they (a) don't work - no current/audio will flow) and (b) won't stay in the socket - they'll just fall out!! 

Gotta hold the one end, whilst twisting the other.

They can also be a bit pricey (when compared to the competitors), but buy once, buy right.

I build and work in studios, so when I built this one with my colleague Jase (I'm the one on the left), only Neutriks were used for everything (just under 10000 connections!)



Dan