Snapped Manifold bolts :(

[Ben Lessani]

Not a dig at you mate - just saying in general. The fella above was asking why couldn't you use bolt extractors to remove the stud - you probably could, but you'd butcher the stud and if it broke, which it inevitably does on old cars - then you'll have even less material to bite onto to get it out.

When problems arise working on cars, if you've got the wrong tools and you are constantly trying to improvise/bodge - its never going to be a straightforward job.

Ps. now its a boring 6 page post

[sidecarphil]

ignore ben

he's jealous

because it will beat his Tappets thread for length 

[Ben Lessani]

not a chance, don't make me bump it to the top again!

[sidecarphil]

go on ben

other wise i will keep it up till it gets locked 

sorry bmouthboyo 

[bmouthboyo]

Little more progress...

The stud extractor removed 3 of the studs but it snapped one further down Have about 6 mm showing still, but not enough for the exctractor to bite to unfortunately.

Should be having a mate with a portable welder to weld a nut to it tomorrow.

Fingers crossed.

[bmouthboyo]

OK that last stud is not coming our with heat, stud extractors, mole grips, or even by welding a nut to it.

Head is coming off

Any ideas on how much I am looking at to have a machinist shop remove / drill out the stud?

Going to ring around tomorrow but want to make sure not getting ripped off.

Thanks

[Diamond Hell]

Somewhere like Piston Broke in Bristol would charge £40-60 for a job like that.

While it's there unless you know the history of the motor you should get it skimmed, pressure tested and have the valve stem seals replaced.

Make sure it all goes back together properly. 

Might be worth checking the price of an exchange head from somewhere like GSF or ECP, if they still do them.

[wil0]

i used this really cool stud extractor today that was like a drill chuck, but with more sharper points of contact, and it worked in reverse, so you could undo it. I was skeptical, but it came straight out, and it only had about 6mm of metal to grip to. no use in your situation tho.
id just cut the stud off, then drill it out, tap a new thread and put in a bigger stud. you could do it yourself, and would probably only take an hour. on my mini i did this with a bendy extension attachment on my dremel, the bolt sheared off into the block, and to avoid taking the engine out, i drilled out the bolt and re-tapped it. it took me 4 hours tho! i wouldn't recommend that.

[rubjonny]

i did this on a 1.6, one stud sheared off almost flush thanks to years of a coolant leaking onto it from the coolant channel oring in the head.  what I did was grind it flat with a dremel then drill it out.  use a centre punch to mark the middle of it, then mark your drill bit to the depth of the another head stud.  use a small bit and work your way up to just under the diameter of the stud, then you should hopefully be able to pick out the remains of the stud then wind a tap down it.

[danny_p]

8 valve heads are cheep !