You've posted this in the wrong category boss!
hi all, this is my list off issues on my 1.3 project car.
driver side sill
Its got several holes, biggest is 5cm or so span, my plan here is to make a plate to fit over all the rust, fill the inside of the sill with waxoyl underseal and have the plate welded on, underseal that and fit gti sill covers, or the stickers that come on certain golfs that cover the sills?
Have a look here
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.msg979860#msg979860 . You can either make a plate to fit - or just buy an outer sill cover from ECP. You might be better off with the latter so at least it follows the curve of the bodywork better.
You need to cut back at the rot and get to good fresh THICK metal, otherwise you'll be chasing your weld for ages!
drivers side jacking point
this is rusty and falling apart, its not an actual hole in the floor so will it pass mot??? hopefully will form something to weld over it, and underseal.
The jacking point is the sill? If you have a hole in the floorpan, cut it out again and weld a fresh plate in. If the hole is in the chassis leg (the only other place I could think of jacking from?), then I wouldn't even bother with the car.
cambelt
Cambelt was done at 62k and car is now at 110k, time to be changed??? never done a cam belt before but im gonna get a haynes manual some time this week
If the car is new to you, change the belt, its a 20 min job. Jack it up on the drivers side, support with an axel stand under the chassis leg. Remove the wheel, loosen the PAS belt (
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.msg877119#msg877119) then loosen the aux belt from the alternator by loosening the 6mm allen pivot bolt and the 13mm toothed wheel. Remove the crank pulley, then the timing belt cover. Mark the crank in relation to the block, belt and aux shaft, mark the cam shaft in relation to the head and the belt. Line your old belt up against the new one, copy the markings over, then line up the new belt on the car as per the markings, fit it, turn the crank and cam slightly away from each other to tension the front face of the belt, then tighten up the tensioner on the reverse.
sunroof
my sunroof has been sealed with bathroom sealant, read somewhere it might just be drain holes blocked, ill check these, get a new seal, spray the surround and cut away all the old seal?
It could be a few bits, there is 4 drain hoses, the front two run down the A pillars and exit between the door and wing. If the wing has ever been replaced, you'll find the drain hose is probably trapped. The rear ones run down the C pillar on each side again, and pass through the inside of the boot behind the carpet next to the rear clusters and exit at the back of the rear quarter panels.
Shoving a straightened out coathanger down the front tubes should unblock them nicely, the rears are harder, I found hoovering the entire inner skin on the boot did wonders - theres lots of little rusty bits kicking about blocking stuff up. Another good trick - is to get a foot pump/air line, connect it to the exits of the tubes (works on both front and rear) and blast it hard a few times - hundreds of crap will fly out.
New seals are about £40 each though (inner and outer). Make sure you actually have all the parts fitted on the sunroof - mine was missing bits (hence the leak)
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.msg392131#msg392131Engine mounts!!!
main worry... the engine on tickover wobbles the car really badly, the front mount is very rotten, the left mount (as looking at it from the front) the engine wobbles in the rubber and the car stays still. im sure it isnt normal, anything else these can be or is it just a case of change them all?
IIRC the general consensus (short of solid mounts), is to use 1.3 front and g/box mounts, with the original block mount
brake pipes
all brake pipes on the car appear a bit corroded, whats the point where mr mot tester says 'theyre bolloxed'? replumbing the brakes sounds expensive, havent a clue how to go about it 
Brake pipes are easy to make, but you need the right tools. A cheap flaring tool will do you no favours, so expect to spend about £50+ on the tool alone. Pipe, fittings and fixings can be found anywhere, if you're doing the whole car, then you'll need a good few meters of hard line. Scroll halfway down this post (
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.msg979860#msg979860). I would also suggest in investing in a brake line spanner too.
The rubber unions can be replaced, you need 6 of them on a rear disk version. TSR sell a full steel braided kit for about £60 if memory serves. Replacing the unions really depends on wear though, they'll outlast the hardlines by a fair whack.
