Would high mileage put you off?

[frog]

Now i've scrapped my Vento (dont ask  ) i'm considering another 8V gti but would high mileage with very little service history put you off? The car has past MOT's but no service receipts (i know most poeple service there own older cars)
Its advertised on ebay at the minute and is with-in 25 miles of my house but i'm away for the weekend so wont be around when the auction finishes.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1989-Mk-2-VW-GOLF-GTI-5-DOOR-RED_W0QQitemZ270367358289QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item270367358289&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A7%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

What do you think, worth a gamble (i know i might miss out due to someone on here bidding but thats the risk!)

[JC]

wot do you count as high ?>

[frog]

The mileage the on the car i'm looking at is 167000 ish

[Wayne]

Think about it another way, the car is 20yrs old so has done 3400miles a year which is not a lot.

Go and have a look and drive it is the best bet.

[JC]

i'm currently looking at vans aged '96 and '98 with 200k+ on them , so no, i wouldnt worry 

[twistedblack69]

I bought my '91 8v with 178,000 on the clock

[Mew]

Think about it another way, the car is 20yrs old so has done 3400miles a year which is not a lot.

Eh?

3400 miles a year on a 20 year old car is 68000 miles.

167000 miles on a 20 year old car averages out at 8350 per year.

And in answer to the original question, i wouldn't bother about mileage as long as it's in good condition and you're not paying top dollar

[Mk2George]

Bought mine with 173k on the the clock and its perfectly fine - though it does have some evidence of service history and by the condition of things id say its been looked after.

Best bet if you can is go have a look and a drive

[dubber36]

Mine had done 158,000 miles when I bought it and it still feels as tight as a drum. My last 8V had done 151,000 when I got that too, and never gave any problems.

As for ebay, I never bid on anything until a few seconds to go. If you put your max bid in too early, there is more time for people to run you up. If the price is getting closer to your bid, or over it, it is too tempting to bid a bit more.

If I cant be around at the end of the auction, I use a bidding tool called Hammersnipe.(Google it and you'll find it) You pay $2.00 and it will bid for you as close as 3 seconds before the end of the auction. That way nobody can bid against you cos they dont know your bidding, and if the price does go over your max bid, well you dont win it. After all that is the whole point of setting a max bid.

[nealey]

Buy it on the condition of the body not the mileage/mechanicals. Bodywork is the hardest and more expensive thing to sort out on a mk2!

I bought my 8v with 168k on the clock and no service history, had a few minor niggles as expected but its straight and rust free which i all i care about