GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: hobnobbob on 11 November 2012, 22:56
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Hey people :wink:
Need some advice. I want to get rid of the Cabrio since i've finished it (its for sale BTW £1500 :cool:) and i want something with some sportyness to it.
I'm trying to justify the 2.016v o the VR6.
My heart tells me the VR6 of course for the noise and torq but my brain says get the 2.016v and then add some cams and a decat for pretty much the same gains as a early VR in my price range (2K)
What do people think? I'm fed up of the misses driving the ST being the passenger and trailing behind all my freinds who have mega quick cars. I want to be part of the pack.
thanks!
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Hey people :wink:
Need some advice. I want to get rid of the Cabrio since i've finished it (its for sale BTW £1500 :cool:) and i want something with some sportyness to it.
I'm trying to justify the 2.016v o the VR6.
My heart tells me the VR6 of course for the noise and torq but my brain says get the 2.016v and then add some cams and a decat for pretty much the same gains as a early VR in my price range (2K)
What do people think? I'm fed up of the misses driving the ST being the passenger and trailing behind all my freinds who have mega quick cars. I want to be part of the pack.
thanks!
Hmmm trying to put "Mk3" in there is a bit difficult unless you are considering a turbo.
Which of course could be done for 2k if your handy with spanners and tools, I suppose you need to define Mega quick ?
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Jap cars and stripped out fords mostly.
I just want something with around 150bhp so i can strip it out and make something fun.
I'm not sure if i can justify the running costs of a VR to a modified 2.0 thats all.
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I could drive my 16v faster than my vr6. The vr6 under steers a lot because of the engine being so big and so far forward.
If you want to race your mates on back roads then 16v!
If you live near motorways then the vr6
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I could drive my 16v faster than my vr6. The vr6 under steers a lot because of the engine being so big and so far forward.
If you want to race your mates on back roads then 16v!
If you live near motorways then the vr6
thats is so true buddy vr6 for topend motor ways but the 16v lighter and can chuck it about more
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Sort out the handing and the vr has the drive out the corners.. but that said the 16v ain't exactly sluggish
Sticking cams in a 16v isnt as simple as that.
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Add some decent suspension, tyres, and some negative camber on the front and the Mk3 VR6 begins to work very well.
Mk3 16v is a good package, but I was saying do not dismiss the VR
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Add some decent suspension, tyres, and some negative camber on the front and the Mk3 VR6 begins to work very well.
Mk3 16v is a good package, but I was saying do not dismiss the VR
But do the same chassis mods to a 16v and it will out perform the vr6 every time.
I know first hand because I've had both.
Vr6 only has the upper hand after 110mph. On the B roads I live near you will struggle to do that.
I can enter corners faster in a 16v and put all 150bhp down earlier in a corner. The vr6 ill have to wait until the car is almost straight before I'm fall throttle.
My 16v had toyo t1r's
And my vr6 has yoko paradas
I even got the toyo's to go blue on the rear, I will never do that to the yoko's on the vr6 because it doesn't carry the same corner speed.
I run same pressures in both cars
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16v is the better bet, strip some weight from it as a start, be warned it is not cheap to make it quicker however.
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To be fair you shouldn't really be concerned about cornering speeds etc on the open roads. Get a VR and cruise with a smile on your face. :cool:
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That's why I have a 8v gti now! :grin:
Don't drive fast on public roads anymore, that's for idiots. I decided to race couple times a month on a track with paramedics and a ambulance.
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2 grand aint enough to get any decent power improvement out of a 16v.
Think more like £5k.
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abf with full exhaust good induction kit and a chip = happy days
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Thanks for all the replys!
I live in dorset so B roads is the common one. great for backroad blasting!
why is the 16v so expensive to tune then?
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2 grand aint enough to get any decent power improvement out of a 16v.
Think more like £5k.
Eh? alot less than that. Get a standalone and you can extrtact ~25+hp from a standard engine.
Even a turbo conversion is less than 5k. and then you're looking at 275ftlbs torque not 140ftlbs.
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I'm not looking to to turbo it or anything just a simple set up.
cams, decat and stripped and i think i'd be happy with a decent set of wheels and suspension.
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Personally I would port the throttle bodie, lighten the flywheel and chip.
Up rate the anti roll bars, polly bush kit, good coilovers, decent pads and good set of tyres.
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A decat will gain nothing unless cat is blocked and will cause you hassle come MOT time.
And for the price of a set of cams you may aswell go standalone because it will cost you even more to get ecu remapped to suit.
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wats standalone??
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Personally I would port the throttle bodie, lighten the flywheel and chip.
Up rate the anti roll bars, polly bush kit, good coilovers, decent pads and good set of tyres.
do they respond well to chips?
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Yes some guys on here have just over 160bhp with modified air box and ported throttle body
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Ive had 16v for couple years,absolutley loved the abf ,induction mods and chipped ,it went very well once it was wound up,driven vr6 power wise felt like not alot in it apart from that vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr noise :smiley:
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I would really like a VR6 but most around my price have the dreaded chain rattle (some much worse then others) and that's a big big job!! (what sane people would fit a plastic tensioner??)
so I would say VR if the chains healthy and you want a cruiser.. otherwise 16v
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if you dont plan to turbo the ABF. id get a VR
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Yes some guys on here have just over 160bhp with modified air box and ported throttle body
160bhp? thats a lot! who should i look to for a ported TB and remap?
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Yes some guys on here have just over 160bhp with modified air box and ported throttle body
160bhp? thats a lot! who should i look to for a ported TB and remap?
Think everyone does them there selfs with a dremel, search for a guide. Don't bother with the remap get a chip from ebay
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Standard chip has to be removed anyway to fit a programable one.
Mine has all the "standard mods" and only makes 154bhp so not everyone can get 160bhp.
Plus its subjective anyway as Rolling Roads differ and as yet nobody except Khare has stated which RR gave those figures.
As a Forum we know that JKM and Rtech and Carbon Chiptuning all give similar figures.
So those that say they get 160bhp with just an ebay chip I take with a pinch of salt.
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Fair enough all seems pretty reasonable! Thanks lads.
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i sold my lovely vr6 for £650 as knowone wanted it off here and was amazing too.
i got a cordoba now abf lump and seems to go well but i prefer the vr6 and i am planning to vr6 the cordoba
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Where can i buy these chips then?
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if you dont plan to turbo the ABF. id get a VR
This.
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Where can i buy these chips then?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-GTI-2-0-16V-ABF-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-Chiptuning-/221153298517?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337dc38855&_uhb=1 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-GTI-2-0-16V-ABF-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-Chiptuning-/221153298517?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337dc38855&_uhb=1)
:wink:
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Where can i buy these chips then?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-GTI-2-0-16V-ABF-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-Chiptuning-/221153298517?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337dc38855&_uhb=1 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-GTI-2-0-16V-ABF-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-Chiptuning-/221153298517?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337dc38855&_uhb=1)
:wink:
thanks buddy.
decided i'm going to get a 16v then bring it up on its power. cant justify the VR6.
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Its not going to be cheap bringing it up on power, why not buy a vr then sell it on a few months later? Least you can say you've been there done that....
I can guarantee you wont sell :evil:
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wont cost alot all to make good power from a abf
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Its not going to be cheap bringing it up on power, why not buy a vr then sell it on a few months later? Least you can say you've been there done that....
I can guarantee you wont sell :evil:
decat and system around £200 used. chip is about 70 and stripping it wont cost anything unless i buy some buckets.
possibly cams later into owning it maybe a set of TT268's or similar with VR injectors.
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Vr6 is faster in straight line, (not much) But I could drive my 16v faster A to B than my vr6. I could get my 16v to "lift off" over steer. So if you do under steer the 16v you can quickly correct it with your foot.
No chance in a vr6! Push it hard into a corner and you just got to wait until it grips. It's a poor balance and the chassis wasn't designed to have that engine. If it was why would it sit so far forward over the front wheels?
If I wanted a track car I wouldn't even think about a vr engine. It would be a abf all the way!!
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decat and system around £200 used. chip is about 70 and stripping it wont cost anything unless i buy some buckets.
possibly cams later into owning it maybe a set of TT268's or similar with VR injectors.
You are aware that 268 cams won't run with the standard ECU/plenum?
And VR injectors...this is going to be good to see!
VW are top feed and ABF stubby side feed...care to explain how that's going to work?
Why do you want bigger injectors anyway?
ABF injectors will flow all the fuel you ever need on an ABF with just a set of 268s.
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decat and system around £200 used. chip is about 70 and stripping it wont cost anything unless i buy some buckets.
possibly cams later into owning it maybe a set of TT268's or similar with VR injectors.
You are aware that 268 cams won't run with the standard ECU/plenum?
And VR injectors...this is going to be good to see!
VW are top feed and ABF stubby side feed...care to explain how that's going to work?
Why do you want bigger injectors anyway?
ABF injectors will flow all the fuel you ever need on an ABF with just a set of 268s.
Lol. All pie in the sky ideas as usual.
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decat and system around £200 used. chip is about 70 and stripping it wont cost anything unless i buy some buckets.
possibly cams later into owning it maybe a set of TT268's or similar with VR injectors.
You are aware that 268 cams won't run with the standard ECU/plenum?
And VR injectors...this is going to be good to see!
VW are top feed and ABF stubby side feed...care to explain how that's going to work?
Why do you want bigger injectors anyway?
ABF injectors will flow all the fuel you ever need on an ABF with just a set of 268s.
I know it will need a different map as any car would. most of my freinds have had their fiesta's remapped with SS4/5's otherwise it runs horrible and dont get the most out of them as you'd know.
I read up on the wrong info too it was the 8v you can put the VR6 injectors on not the 16v :rolleyes: :drool:
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I know it will need a different map as any car would.
You don't need a different map to run 268s...you need a different ECU. One that doesn't use a MAP sensor.
And even then, you'll struggle to get the cams working well with the standard plenum.
But hey, what do I know? :whistle:
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Did you fix your car in the end Glen?
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I know it will need a different map as any car would.
You don't need a different map to run 268s...you need a different ECU. One that doesn't use a MAP sensor.
And even then, you'll struggle to get the cams working well with the standard plenum.
But hey, what do I know? :whistle:
I never said you didnt :rolleyes: get off my arse i dont even own a 16v yet i'm only looking at my options around the web. inspiration is what its called.
If your going to give advice to people like me who are getting into the VW scene and dont know much about it you dont need to be so arrogant about knowing things i dont.
this whole thread is about getting advice.
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I never said you didnt :rolleyes: get off my arse i dont even own a 16v yet i'm only looking at my options around the web. inspiration is what its called.
If your going to give advice to people like me who are getting into the VW scene and dont know much about it you dont need to be so arrogant about knowing things i dont.
this whole thread is about getting advice.
Here's an idea...why not read the info that's already on here before you step up like the 'big I am' and tell the world what you are going to do?
TBH, I couldn't give a toss whether you waste your money on stuff that won't work, or not.
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only problem with forums full of pricks he is asking for advice and u all booting off, lmoa and i am not been a keyboard worrier either, just he asking for help, i had a mk3 vr6 and i now have a cordby 16v and i wud say my corby is quicker than the vr6 off mark and bottom end, and my mate build vw track cars etc and he said to put kr cams in the abf a nice full system decent air in-take and a chip u will see 170-175bhp easy with loads of fun :)
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Myself an Khare both had our cars on the JKM rollers, his a 16v and mine a VR6. For the extra weight and fuel costs the gains don't seem worth it, only sound. Here are our graphs:
Mine:
(http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss334/wherry112/07022011242.jpg)
His: (http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh115/kharekatoh/golf%20mk3/IMG_20120211_154049.jpg)
I would go for a 16v if i were to get another Mk3
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I prefer the low down torque and the general lazy sexy sounding grunt but I do most of my driving on the m6 so biased opinion
My old valver with a lightened flywheel would keep up with my mate's old vr6 upto 3 figures with not much in it.
I've got a lightened flywheel for my vr still waiting to go on too :smiley:
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If good advice is what you want then you would do well to listen to Glen (Ess-three)
I have done a lot of research independantly and with tips from him then find he has either already done it or knows about it.
There is very little or nothing he doesnt know about tuning and making a Mk3 go faster.
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and my mate build vw track cars etc and he said to put kr cams in the abf a nice full system decent air in-take and a chip u will see 170-175bhp easy with loads of fun :)
Being blunt, your mate is an idiot. :evil:
It he'd bothered measuring the Cams, he'd know that ABF cams are more aggressive than KR cams...so fitting KR Cams will be de-tuning.
A full system won't give you any power gains on an otherwise standard engine.
With all those mods, you'll struggle to see a genuine 175 BHP...it took me all those mods + a fully re-worked big valve head to get 175 proper horsepower.
That's on a standard manifold & downpipes and running a Cat.
You'd be VERY lucky to get 175BHP on a set of 268 cams without headwork, never mind KR cams and exhaust/chip/filter.
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only problem with forums full of pricks he is asking for advice and u all booting off,
The problem is that the forum is full of internet experts who have actually done the square root of f**k-all, yet pass their dreaming off as fact.
People then believe their drivel and pass it on as fact.
Personally, I couldn't give a toss who buys crap, de-tunes their motor or spends a fortune on bits that just won't work...but to those who actually want to find gains for minimal spending, maybe they should remember you were blessed with two ears and only one mouth for a reason!
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ABF cams in an ABF head is far better than KR cams in an ABF head.
You can get ~170-175 on a good standard engine with standalone management.
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Who makes this standalone management? Where can one obtain one?
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Pretty much anything not original equipment.
Emerald, DTA, Megasquirt, AEM, Omex etc.
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Myself an Khare both had our cars on the JKM rollers, his a 16v and mine a VR6. For the extra weight and fuel costs the gains don't seem worth it, only sound. Here are our graphs:
Mine:
(http://i589.photobucket.com/albums/ss334/wherry112/07022011242.jpg)
His: (http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh115/kharekatoh/golf%20mk3/IMG_20120211_154049.jpg)
I would go for a 16v if i were to get another Mk3
That seems like a great figure. what have you done with yours then? just all the standard stuff thats been said?
i've been looking around at a few 16V's in my area and none have tickled my pickle yet so holding out.
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20mk3/IMG_20120211_154049.jpg[/img]
That seems like a great figure. what have you done with yours then? just all the standard stuff thats been said?
i've been looking around at a few 16V's in my area and none have tickled my pickle yet so holding out.
Just a BMC CDA Induction kit, Jetex decat pipe and a scorpion cat back system. Only other thing was a good service :smiley: the noise is something special :evil:
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20mk3/IMG_20120211_154049.jpg[/img]
That seems like a great figure. what have you done with yours then? just all the standard stuff thats been said?
i've been looking around at a few 16V's in my area and none have tickled my pickle yet so holding out.
Just a BMC CDA Induction kit, Jetex decat pipe and a scorpion cat back system. Only other thing was a good service :smiley: the noise is something special :evil:
That's handy as I've got that same induction kit from my old fiesta project!
At least I know the kind of figure I'll get. Thanks dude :D
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Those figures aren't guaranteed.
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My VR pulled 184bhp on the Docs DD rolling road with just a de-cat and im pretty sure them rollers are as god as any when it comes to accuracy. I now have the 2.9 obd1 plenum with port matched and polished tb so I reckon I wont be far off 200bhp now.
With not a great deal of work, you can get passed the 200bhp mark with a VR (Cams), however it will never handle aswell as a Valver, thats a certainty
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My VR pulled 184bhp on the Docs DD rolling road with just a de-cat and im pretty sure them rollers are as god as any when it comes to accuracy. I now have the 2.9 obd1 plenum with port matched and polished tb so I reckon I wont be far off 200bhp now.
With not a great deal of work, you can get passed the 200bhp mark with a VR (Cams), however it will never handle aswell as a Valver, thats a certainty
From experience: A 2.9 with a modified airbox, fully re-worked TB and a few other basic bolt one won't break 200 BHP...so I very much doubt a 2.8 will.
The upper manifold & TB are a great mod though. :grin:
The US 12v head gasket (with a re-map) is a decent mod.
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Some rather interesting, myths and opinions on here... :grin:
You guys should listen to Ess_Three and Tshirt2k.
But then what do I know these 2 powertrains... :whistle:
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Some rather interesting, myths and opinions on here... :grin:
You guys should listen to Ess_Three and Tshirt2k.
But then what do I know these 2 powertrains... :whistle:
Hello Sir! :grin:
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Hello mr wolf :grin:
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I bought a mk3 16v over 3 years ago and it was and still is, a fantastic car. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
Although I'm rather spoilt as mine already had Weitec Ultra GT shocks/springs, Jetex exhaust and an unknown aftermarket chip, possibly ebay, possibly a blitz chip that did the rounds a few years ago.
I'd just like to add my 2 pence, as Ess Three, Tshirt2k etc have said, you won't get 175hp out of an exhaust and a chip. Not possible.
What you can get, with some fettling of the air intake (threads on clubgti showing testing), plus the chip, plus the exhaust - is a dyno proven 160hp ish + 140lbft ish. My own made 162hp & 145lbft on Garage Streamlines dyno dynamics RR. This is a very healthy increase over a stock valver - typically 150hp & 133lbft.
This has been proven to be the case on various RR days at Garage streamline, with stock valvers to provide the benchmark and modded valvers in various states of tune tested against them.
Since the airbox testing, other mods have been looked at in good detail on clubgti, including standalone ECU management and modifying of the inlet manifold and plenum (cutting, welding & testing different runner lengths and seeing how it affects torque output) - all really interesting and something I might look to in the future as another cheap mod
Probably the best mod I've done to date = lightened flywheel and VR6 clutch. Totally transforms the car into a revvy beast. Again, so cheap to do and a wonder VW didn't do it from the outset - think of all the costs saved on metal for the flywheels! :grin:
In summary, get a 16v - a VR6 is very easy to reel in, slow lumbering cruiser that it is. (dragon green mk3 in the tring/hemel/aylesbury area with VR6OC sticker in the back, you know who you are) :lipsrsealed:
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Pretty much anything not original equipment.
Emerald, DTA, Megasquirt, AEM, Omex etc.
Well I have had extensive correspondence with Emerald and DTA and neither of them recommend use of there ECU's without extensive modifications.
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Pretty much anything not original equipment.
Emerald, DTA, Megasquirt, AEM, Omex etc.
Well I have had extensive correspondence with Emerald and DTA and neither of them recommend use of there ECU's without extensive modifications.
Why are they "not recommended" and what level of modifications would then justify the use of these systems.
Else I struggle to understand what point you are attempting to portray.
Bare in mind I have calibrated all of the above (and the rest) and do not see a concern with them, except a difference in price, when new.
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Hello Sir! :grin:
:smug:
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Hello mr wolf :grin:
Yo...
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Pretty much anything not original equipment.
Emerald, DTA, Megasquirt, AEM, Omex etc.
Well I have had extensive correspondence with Emerald and DTA and neither of them recommend use of there ECU's without extensive modifications.
Why are they "not recommended" and what level of modifications would then justify the use of these systems.
Else I struggle to understand what point you are attempting to portray.
Bare in mind I have calibrated all of the above (and the rest) and do not see a concern with them, except a difference in price, when new.
Ported head, high lift cams, ITB's and Tube exhaust manifold.
I was saying that from what I had been told by those ECU people that unless you did the above mods they would not recommend the use of their ECU's.
Now if you can tell me they are giving me duff information about their own products.......
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Emerald direct you to a guy in Gloucestershire that will only sell you the ECU with a set of ITB's.
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Would that be Badger5?
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Who said use emerald? You can use many others. Take your pick.
If you took note of what has been said.
An ABF correctly calibrated with standalone management can produce good results without cams, ITB's etc. This has been tested and proven. Not Internet hype or rumours.
If you added any other mods, like headwork, cams etc, you would then have the ability to optimise the mapping to suit.
If they wont sell it, there are others that you can use. But you have to know what you are doing with them to get results.
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An ABF correctly calibrated with standalone management can produce good results without cams, ITB's etc. This has been tested and proven. Not Internet hype or rumours.
If you added any other mods, like headwork, cams etc, you would then have the ability to optimise the mapping to suit.
In my experience, standalone management won't give you any more than a properly optimised Digifant 3.2 ECU will - certainly on a relatively mildly tuned engine - it just makes it a whole lot easier to map!
There aren't too many people who can/will custom map Digifant 3.2 nowadays.
It's once you go beyond the standard ABF set-up that standalone becomes invaluable.
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Emerald direct you to a guy in Gloucestershire that will only sell you the ECU with a set of ITB's.
Odd...they were happy to sell me a base ECU kit, direct from Emerald, and without ITBs.
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Pretty much anything not original equipment.
Emerald, DTA, Megasquirt, AEM, Omex etc.
Well I have had extensive correspondence with Emerald and DTA and neither of them recommend use of there ECU's without extensive modifications.
Why are they "not recommended" and what level of modifications would then justify the use of these systems.
Else I struggle to understand what point you are attempting to portray.
Bare in mind I have calibrated all of the above (and the rest) and do not see a concern with them, except a difference in price, when new.
Ported head, high lift cams, ITB's and Tube exhaust manifold.
I was saying that from what I had been told by those ECU people that unless you did the above mods they would not recommend the use of their ECU's.
Now if you can tell me they are giving me duff information about their own products.......
I speak to the good people at Emerald regualry on their products, and they have never given me "duff" infomation be it Leoni, Karl or Dave. And it does not matter if it is a VAG product or a Jap.
It could come down to cost. On a std car with high levels of vacuum on idle the cost of a new ECU ~£550-600 plus map sensor, loom integration, plus mapping/dyno time, to deliver the improved drive feel may not be justifiable.
Or if the vehicle has a requirement for a 3 way catalyst (which needs lambda control to regulate between 14.1-15.0 AFR), this could be another cause for your response.
In terms of the system and delivering a calibration from a MD3K, K3 or K6 running a OE ABF motor, not a problem with map compensation. It can also be done on alpha_n mode but the some load sites would not follow the actual manifold filling for a given air density.
It has been done before, in fact in the base tables there is a VW16v base cal that was created on a vehicle that belonged to one of my friends.
If the powertrain is std and the ECU can work in some speed density arrangement, I can deliver the same calibration philosophy on an emerald system as I would on a DTA S or EXP series, OMEX 600 and Megasquirt V3x
If the engine was modified where there was little manifold vacuum, as in the case of big cams and throttles, then yes the default alpha-N algorithm can be used, making the ECU hardware cheaper (no map sensor is required).
I have also used Emerald products on STD R32 NASP motors with no issuses, including intake VVT control, once again with map compensation, so semi speed density.
The point is they can work very well on "pretty much OEM powertrains" :cool:
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An ABF correctly calibrated with standalone management can produce good results without cams, ITB's etc. This has been tested and proven. Not Internet hype or rumours.
If you added any other mods, like headwork, cams etc, you would then have the ability to optimise the mapping to suit.
In my experience, standalone management won't give you any more than a properly optimised Digifant 3.2 ECU will - certainly on a relatively mildly tuned engine - it just makes it a whole lot easier to map!
There aren't too many people who can/will custom map Digifant 3.2 nowadays.
It's once you go beyond the standard ABF set-up that standalone becomes invaluable.
I agree Glen.
At the time, I had not worked out how the Digifant 3.X binary actually worked, so as I was reasonalbly skilled in Electronics, the megasquirt was the fastest route to delivering a custom calibration to see what the engine could do as a base.
However now as I have been playing with the OE controller and I already establish a character from the base engine from all the various experiements, it is quite easy for me to tweak the digifant to deliver the same.
I still like my standalone as you can switch from plenum to throttles quite quickly. In fact my throttles systems are now very portable with a SEM. Just bolt on the hardwareand a quick cal change and off you go...but that is enough for now :grin:
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An ABF correctly calibrated with standalone management can produce good results without cams, ITB's etc. This has been tested and proven. Not Internet hype or rumours.
If you added any other mods, like headwork, cams etc, you would then have the ability to optimise the mapping to suit.
There aren't too many people who can/will custom map Digifant 3.2 nowadays.
It's once you go beyond the standard ABF set-up that standalone becomes invaluable.
This was my point. Plus the diy enthusiast won't have the equipment or the chance to get involved themselves using digifant and each mod would then have to be paid for to be mapped again.
It can be done cheaper by building a Megasquirt ECU but takes a type of person who is willing to put the work in to find out how it works and tweak (and tweak)until you're close, then tweak some more.
Else buy a ready made one from companies mentioned previously
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I was looking at Emerald because they have 3 or 5 (cant be assed to find the email) different maps which you could switch within the car. One of which was supposedly an MOT map, but when I pressed them on this they wouldnt guarantee that it would pass emissions on that map.
tshirt - you are making claims I just wanted you to come and say exactly how it can be done, not some wishy washy statement which is of no help to anyone.
Please tell me which "standalone", what other mods have to be done and which Rolling Road the produced those figures.
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I was looking at Emerald because they have 3 or 5 (cant be assed to find the email) different maps which you could switch within the car. One of which was supposedly an MOT map, but when I pressed them on this they wouldnt guarantee that it would pass emissions on that map.
tshirt - you are making claims I just wanted you to come and say exactly how it can be done, not some wishy washy statement which is of no help to anyone.
Please tell me which "standalone", what other mods have to be done and which Rolling Road the produced those figures.
It's not a claim, it's a fact. Many on CGTI have used Megasquirt, but as said you can use many other brands to achieve the same result.
You don't necessarily need an MOT map, as i have passed an MOT with the same map. It just has to be tuned to give correct emissions, regarding CO% and HC etc around the idle & fast idle parts of the map. I am using a catalytic Converter too.
If you can't do the research here are some links. Dyno was a Dyno Dynamics (heartbreaker)
link 1 (http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?244559-*Update-17-09-12*-Toyotec-s-JORAN-2-0-16v-170PS-5900rpm-baseline-test&p=2215063&viewfull=1#post2215063)
link 2 (http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?164051-My-Mars-Red-Mk1-Painful-Resurrection-and-demise-P35&p=1860716&viewfull=1#post1860716)
link 3 Same car as in link 2 but with more mapping (http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?164051-My-Mars-Red-Mk1-Painful-Resurrection-and-demise-P35&p=2002655&viewfull=1#post2002655)
I have chosen 2 cars that have a standard engine running a plenum, to show what is possible.
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Awful lot to digest there!
Any chance you could PM Boneybradley with the definitive info so he can update his TUNING thread up in the info section?
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Just looked at the Megasquirt website!
Hmmmmm using a laptop while you drive? :shocked:
Thats a very good idea!
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Len...
You looked at all that information and that was the only thing you picked up on?
You either drive & log the ECU data, then view it at your leisure and make changes.
OR
Get a buddy to drive or operate the laptop.
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Len...
You looked at all that information and that was the only thing you picked up on?
You either drive & log the ECU data, then view it at your leisure and make changes.
OR
Get a buddy to drive or operate the laptop.
Exactly! :rolleyes:
Or even. Don't try Megasquirt because its NO GOOD for some people. Go with a more expensive type.
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Len...
You looked at all that information and that was the only thing you picked up on?
You either drive & log the ECU data, then view it at your leisure and make changes.
OR
Get a buddy to drive or operate the laptop.
I picked up on it because what is said on there is very much illegal.
It does not say what you just have.
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Just looked at the Megasquirt website!
Hmmmmm using a laptop while you drive? :shocked:
Thats a very good idea!
Said Len as he posted that while driving :grin:
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Len...
You looked at all that information and that was the only thing you picked up on?
You either drive & log the ECU data, then view it at your leisure and make changes.
OR
Get a buddy to drive or operate the laptop.
Exactly! :rolleyes:
Or even. Don't try Megasquirt because its NO GOOD for some people. Go with a more expensive type.
And you choose to pick up one post and not the one asking you to do something useful for everybody! :rolleyes:
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Len...
You looked at all that information and that was the only thing you picked up on?
You either drive & log the ECU data, then view it at your leisure and make changes.
OR
Get a buddy to drive or operate the laptop.
I picked up on it because what is said on there is very much illegal.
It does not say what you just have.
Theres always a legal aspect that seems to get attention. Scene police on the loose again!
And yes, you can drive with a laptop on the passenger seat and do logs. It even has an autotune function if you have a wideband installed. As If someone would drive with a laptop on the steering wheel whilst doing WOT runs?? :huh:
Maybe you didn't read in depth enough? Don't focus on negative things. Seems like you just want to pick holes in it. Read, read and read again. It is very involved and a steep learning curve.
And i'll reiterate, It's not for everyone. You need a certain level of skill and patience to get along with it.
Too many people think its a magic fix for extra power and then can't get along with it because its not as easy as it first seems.
A few people around these forums have found that out.
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Len...
You looked at all that information and that was the only thing you picked up on?
You either drive & log the ECU data, then view it at your leisure and make changes.
OR
Get a buddy to drive or operate the laptop.
Exactly! :rolleyes:
Or even. Don't try Megasquirt because its NO GOOD for some people. Go with a more expensive type.
And you choose to pick up one post and not the one asking you to do something useful for everybody! :rolleyes:
You can PM if you like. The info may not be useful because it will make people believe its an easy fix for more power. It can be, but only in the right hands. Otherwise it can be a nightmare because its too much to take in.
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im gonna vouch for what ever russ says, take on board, he has put a hell of a lot of research in to his ABF
Also, i use laptop to log with vag com as do many others, its only way to do things in the real world if you dont have a rolling road in your garage
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Just looked at the Megasquirt website!
Hmmmmm using a laptop while you drive? :shocked:
Thats a very good idea!
In the same way you can map and Emerald or a DTA live :smiley:
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im gonna vouch for what ever russ says, take on board, he has put a hell of a lot of research in to his ABF
Also, i use laptop to log with vag com as do many others, its only way to do things in the real world if you dont have a rolling road in your garage
Even on the rolling road you can log data, so it is not just limited to road tuning.
Sometimes if you are monitoring/updating boost control, fuel mixture, listening for knock, at different speed loads etc, it is useful to capture data via a recording then review after the cycle and make changes to optimise.
Most sub 700 quid aftermarket ECUs only have a few channels compared to the 8000+ you can have in modern OEM systems. So logging data is becomes even more essential, if you are to develop a product fit for public use.
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Awful lot to digest there!
Any chance you could PM Boneybradley with the definitive info so he can update his TUNING thread up in the info section?
It is interesting that some of my experiemental work is already here
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=129025.0
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And great reading it made. :smiley:
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I agree ,some top info :smiley: