GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 TDI => Topic started by: vw-8v on 18 December 2009, 17:32
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i read the last thread and as i picking up maf tomorrow (missed the postie) i will fit it and see if it resolves prob of judder and loss of power but if not ha ha ha i gonna b straded on motor way between glasgow and edin as through at girlfriends (prob started on way here) and hopefully it not the clutch but i dont know if the loss of power wld be down too the clutch?
if maf doesnt sort it i book in for auto elec to find a code.
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Could well be the MAF or as per normal with these cars it could be a number of things but I doubt it would be the clutch with these symptoms.
If it was the clutch you would notice it slipping, where the revs go up but your not going anywhere.
Could also and may be what is known as limp mode, but I could be very wrong in saying that, so best wait until one of the more brainy members come on like Rhyso or Steve PD as they know there stuff about our cars.
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well it wasnt the maf sesor at the post office depo ha ha it was repair manual lol cant hav one without the other i guess but had look and maf is simple swap.
yeah funny thing is when i started the car for return journey the turbo was working that is untill i was sitting aroud 70 and only put foot down a little to overtake lorry and it was as if turbo was blown out like a cadle (same noise) after that i struggled past the lorry and sat at 70 all way well struggled once got to hills(small inclines really) home no pwer at all. again this morn turbo working again all day but not been on long journey.
obviously need to wait till i get the mfa replaced but what is limp mode?
post if anyone knows and i do a search, guessing to do with ecu but would that cut the turbo??? as i know on motor bikes it just makes sure you cant rev past say 9000rpm it splutters and backfires. in the car revs will slowly slowly creap up when fualt there.
cheers
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your car is going into limb mode, mine used to do it in the same situations. I just used to pull into the slow lane and turn the engine off and back on again
check all your intercooler pipes, not sure if a maf would put it into limp mode :undecided:
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Most likely a boost leak mate, check all the hoses for splits. My bro had a running problem on his tdi bora, it kept going into limp mode and that was the MAF so may be worth changing that also. His MAF was only £52 from vw so if yours is around that then might aswell try that aswell.
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cheers for info maf on its way.
will check my manual as to where to find the boost hoses.
will update
thanks
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Well the way I see it with me replacing my maf is if it sorts things out then it's all good if not then I just see it as a part that is worth replacing anyway as I bet most of our cars would be on the first maf from factory I reckon.
Mine is on 70k and i'm pretty sure it's on same maf as my bro had the car since 30k and he never replaced it.
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well mfa replaced yesterday plus air filter pollen filter, was about to do oil and fuel but then the snow started so that for another day. but went for run on motorway b4 it got bad and as ever an eay fix did not work it still kicked badly then esp warning light came on and that was it , every little touch of the accelerator i got a rapid machine gun stutter from engine with no power but it was not in limp mode i dont thing as when it does tht turbo stops.
so as we speak i gonna try get out in the snow and hav a look for the boost hoses i also booked in for auto elec to hav a look at it.
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :cry: just my luck lol i could hav spent extra money and got a 115 or 130 grrrr but then agian they might hav hed probs aswell.
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rapid machine gun stutter could be an exhaust manifold blowing or the pipe going from the manifold to the EGR valve
I had this when I replaced the EGR with the Allard delete pipe but i didn't have time to remove the pipe to the exhaust manifold; the pipe eventually snapped off and threw the car into limp mode. Blocked it off on the manifold itself and it fixed the problem
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right i not sure how to go about that ????? where get pipe and silly question, if there no need for egr why it on the car? or what does the allard pipe do as egr bypassed? is there a link for intructions?
cheers as this prob annoying and if i can solve it b4 needing to pay money for auto sparky to plug vagcom in at 40 quid a pop.
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right i not sure how to go about that ????? where get pipe and silly question, if there no need for egr why it on the car? or what does the allard pipe do as egr bypassed? is there a link for intructions?
cheers as this prob annoying and if i can solve it b4 needing to pay money for auto sparky to plug vagcom in at 40 quid a pop.
Its used to keep the emissions down and in the UK diesels arn't tested on emissions just a smoke test. So no need for it.
Guide - HERE (http://www.bazmcc.com/faqs/EGRDelete.html)
Buy one - HERE (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EGR-Valve-Power-Pipe-VW-Golf-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Tdi-90-110_W0QQitemZ170422630672QQcategoryZ72205QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D11%26ps%3D63#ht_1596wt_1165)
Easy to fit.
Have you checked for a boost leak? Get someone to rev the car while you listen for whistling and blowing.
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thnks adam
but why not just replace the egr ?????
and on the guide lol as not looked at it in car , where does the open hose go to when refitting ?? or is it ment to be left hanging? prob the most idiotic question yet sorry.
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thnks adam
but why not just replace the egr ?????
and on the guide lol as not looked at it in car , where does the open hose go to when refitting ?? or is it ment to be left hanging? prob the most idiotic question yet sorry.
Because its quite abit of money for something that does nothing but hinder power -
Quote from Rhyso -
thanks to my monumental amount of torque :laugh: :laugh: i had an expensive weekend when my intercooler hose popped off and destroyed the EGR housing meaning a new EGR plus fitting at a cost of £200
The open hose you can just put a few knots in and plug it with a screw or bolt.
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hmmmm the guide is ok but not very detailed as seeing in situ, how it taken off and once put bk on so i prob leave this till after crimbo as shops open if any probs occur. will i need new manifold gaskets?
if auto sparky runns test will it show a fault code if the egr is cusing the prob? naming the egr as the culprit?
as i dont want to go changing alot of parts if fualt lies somewhere else and a fault point at say egr then i can get to solving it.
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You don't need to take the manifold off its just showing you how. 3 bolts EGR off then 2 bolts and the exhaust manifold blanking plate on.
It prob will give somesort of code.
This will tell you a fault code and its handy to have just incase (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OBD2-VW-Audi-SEAT-SKODA-VAG-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner_W0QQitemZ270468868045QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item3ef93367cd)
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adam if you lived near i'd by u a pint m8 lol
cool well i ordering coilovers today and should get them done next week at trix ,if they turn up b4 i go bk too work.
well in that case shouldn't be a big job lol but my luck always playes its hand lol wonder what bolt i will snap or round lol.
i'd order the kit and put it in regardless.
thanks and have a good crimbo if i not on but i prob will be lol as next what wheels to buy as not payinf for lowering it.
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adam if you lived near i'd by u a pint m8 lol
cool well i ordering coilovers today and should get them done next week at trix ,if they turn up b4 i go bk too work.
well in that case shouldn't be a big job lol but my luck always playes its hand lol wonder what bolt i will snap or round lol.
i'd order the kit and put it in regardless.
thanks and have a good crimbo if i not on but i prob will be lol as next what wheels to buy as not payinf for lowering it.
I'm visiting my family in Glasgow so you can pop to drumchapel for a pint :grin:
What coilovers did you go for?
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Are there any members near you that could maybe vagcom your car for you to save you the £40 your sparky may charge.
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bought that vag reader just this min i getting coilovers so that will be ordered one got qeuestion answered. and i was told by a niebourgh i hav necver spoken too the day as i was under the bonnet he had same prob on his tdci st he was told to stop using supermarket diesel that is after he changed his maf etc and the prob never come bck once he uses v power stuff.
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oh and adam my girlfriend lives in craigend so i might be through that way this week comming lol if you still in that area i buy u a pint.
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bought allard kit so it on its way with the fault reader. cheers
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bought allard kit so it on its way with the fault reader. cheers
keep us posted
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fault reader has turned up but still no allard kit, will update once got kit.
one q though where does the reader attatch to the engine? ecu?
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here
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/Imagewerx/Bob-020.jpg)
the trim piece covering it just pops off (pull it from underneath)
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Fault reader? Is that Vagcom your talking aboutor something different?
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Fault reader? Is that Vagcom your talking aboutor something different?
Vag-Com is a program for MS Windows to use with a OBD2 cable. The Fault reader is a standalone device, looks like this -
(http://img.en.china.cn/0/0,0,431,50460,600,600,2beedf1c.jpg)
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Pro's con's on this device?
Worth having instead of vagcom?
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Pro's con's on this device?
Worth having instead of vagcom?
Vagcom the Licensed version costs ££, VAG-com can do alot more than a simple fault code reader. All the fault code reader can do is what it says, read fault codes and clear them. The fault code reader only gives you a code and you need to find out what the code is.
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Cheers for that info Adam
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Not completely true.. i have some MS509 scanners in stock that also do live data logging/recording and has built in DTC identification
not as flexible as vagcom but you can use them on pretty much any car
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Not completely true.. i have some MS509 scanners in stock that also do live data logging/recording and has built in DTC identification
not as flexible as vagcom but you can use them on pretty much any car
Sorry I was referring to the ^^^
You can also get Snap-On scanners that does it all.
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You sorted this problem out yet fella? I was suffering with the same issue with my 130.
All fixed now :wink:
It was cured by giving the turbo a good session with Innotec, which I bought for £40 off eBay. More info here
http://www.innotecworld.com/c-1064-turbo-clean-set.aspx (http://www.innotecworld.com/c-1064-turbo-clean-set.aspx) Mt turbo vanes where coked up and sticking.
Whilst I was getting this done I asked my mechanic to ensure the movement of VNT lever was free, this is the lever that operates the movement of the vanes in the turbo, the VNT actuator is what the lever is driven by.
This has transformed my car, and not just on the motorways.
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*******UPDATE********
alrighty well had pretty sh!t month with family and work so not had time to do allard kit however i had time today on lunch break to do fault reader(thanks again for link) it did the job and at a low price so here goes on the codes (also got the link from other post to find them out but one code is missing and i cant find it),
engine
18075 - valve for pump-jet: cylinder 2(n241) electrical malfunction is this an auto elec job? and how much?
17965 - boost presure control valve(n75) open cirucit elec or machanic?
17552 - cant find what it is
116686 - miss fire on cyclinder 2 must be related to 18075?
code 17965 can make the car go into limp mode and 16686 explains the kicking as no spark or compression but there are alot of possibilities on the site where the codes are for possible causes, but no idea how or what to fix or get fixed and how much, but also i was advised to put in the better fuel as neighbour had same prob and it doesnt kick as bad or as often now.
so any ideas, i will fit allard kit once get chance but also got abs sensor buggered on back driver side so i need buy one and get it fitted as i hav little time just now.
p.s i also getting alarm sorted this weeked new fob arrived and after my last attemp which kept the whole street up it is going to trix in dunfermline.
next abs and this annoying limp kicking prob.
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right tried to fit allard kit but had to giv up as a couple probs well 2 probs. the first is i cant get into undo the bottom allan key nut on th egr as only say 10 mil between that and where the blanking plate goes on the intake???? only way i can think is to cut an allan key ver short so only enough to just get in an grip it???????
second is a question really in this picdo i do away with the ball like joint which looks like it operated the butterfly valve inside the egr , i gussing yes as egr will b completly taken off car but again no space and looks like it a torx bit to take off the two screws that hold it on.
(http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy67/laffalot99/mk4/290120101276.jpg)
(http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy67/laffalot99/mk4/290120101277.jpg)
plus once had pipe off it soaked with oil internallt see pic of pipe and egr. plus looks like oil comming from othe bottom threaded hole at from of the egr (see pic)
(http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy67/laffalot99/mk4/290120101275.jpg)
(http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy67/laffalot99/mk4/290120101278.jpg)
any ideas on how to get into bolt? and what torx i can use(need to be a stubby i think that if you can get them)
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boost pressure control valve (n75) mine packed up on my old 115, i thinks pretty much unplug it and plug ure new one in, think it was bout 70quid from the main dealer
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o.k well that makes sense with the read outs i got but where on engine is it? cheers
also any ideas on getting this dam egr off?
ha ha adam told me 2 min job lol but i dont hav the lick or tools it seems.
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thats beyond me, wasnt a mk4 owner for very long, cost too much money and its far too complicated lol
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o.k well that makes sense with the read outs i got but where on engine is it? cheers
also any ideas on getting this dam egr off?
ha ha adam told me 2 min job lol but i dont hav the lick or tools it seems.
Tiz a 2min job for the pros at R-Tech
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r tech is a wee bit far for me too take the car lol so any idea what i'm looking at for cost of a garage on labour as i would buy part to give to them so they dont mark it up like so many do.
and any idea on getting that erg bolt out??????? as will b trying it tommorow
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update
well that the allard kit on i needed a torx 25 bit and got round biottom bolt by pushing down the intake pipe as took bolts out for where the blanking plate went frirst.
right will giv it a run the night as cleaned out alot of crap from manifold pipe. Only worry now it i cant feel any gasses excaping from block off plate or round allard kit but there a strong smell of exhaust funrs in engine bay(maybe direction of the wind, i hope so) and car now makes a wierd high pitch humming noise when you press accelerator and as revs drop so does the noise
is it a thing to worry about?
anyway will giv a run later tonight and take torch to it once dark see any gasses getting out.
oh and any idea on cost of a n75? and what is it? plus is that innotec worth it? or does the turbo need striped for this vane thing to b cleared.
cheers
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still juddering so after reading on mkiv forum looks like i need to change the wiring loom for the injector.
quote from other forum
Yes i did but i am a fitter. It is a fairly simple job it only took about 1hr.If you take the engine cover off(take the dip stick out and give it a tug),then take cam cover off you can see the injector loom,there's a round black plug on the right hand side of the head twist it anti clock wise,loosen the 10mm bolts that hold the loom to the head and it out !!!!!
anyone hav guide to do this step by step or is it a haynes manual thing? plus what torque setting does the cam cover bolts need to be done to(will need to buy torque wrench)
and is that innotec stuff worth a punt for clearing vane????????
cheers oh and waht would a boost leak out of a hose sound like?????
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right i getting a bit pi**ed off with this car took it for spin (longer this time) and still prob got home checked the allard kit and there seems to be what looks like water spitting out from around the gasket and blanking plate which i put on the intake so tightened it right up and still small amount comming out grrrrrrrrrrrrr (plus parts in pic sheet supplied with allard kit were not the bolts and washers supplied)
can i seal this with say liquid metal?????
as still getting exhaust smell fron engine bay
lots of threads and replies on my own threads which is sure to b boaring some as the whole problem boaring me and pi**ing me off, i should hav bought td mk3.
and any info on the couple of questions i hav asked in last couple of replies would b handy.
cheers from disheartened mk4 owner
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found n75 valve step by step sp will order one this week and try it next weekend.
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Really feel for you, cuz you sure got a load of probs on your hands.
Chin up mate, once their sorted atleast you know their all done.
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Shame you are so far away I would have had a look for you.
When you fitted the EGRDelete did you reuse the rubber O-Ring from the old EGR?
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not sure if you mean the delete pipe if so i used the new one that was supplied and cant see and or feel any gasses getting out from where the new metal pipe goes where old egr was, there no split in hose only water (gas condensation) spitting out from the block off plate i put on it had a think gasket with it with a hole in the centre.
if there was a rubber or thinker gasket on the egr originally going to the pipe i blocked off then it was not in the instructions and will still be on egr as no parts were on ground after de install(old motorbike faring bolt habbit) if i got wrong end off stick i follow the instructions of the leaflet to the t.
cheers adam lol i b in dudley area on the weekend of the 26th of feb lol taking the girlfriend on a ghost hunt lol her thing but really want this car sorted for long drive.
so never got chance to call vw the day but will get n75 ordered tomorrow.
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lol driving home last night car started making a awfull noise so pulled over and popped the bonnet(it had also went into limp mode at same time) well looks like it was th down pipe off the egr that i had blocked had been vibrating about and cracked open lol or has been this whole bloody time(well prob one of the probs maybe) so limped its limpy ass home and got it booked in to have the pipe removed and the blocking plate put down directly on manifold as the bolt looks pretty rusted and checked with vw the m8 nut is attached to a stud wich he thought would b threaded so i aint touching it as i will shear it lol.
picking up n75 thing tomorrow and try fitting that b4 garage on monday so it on the motorbike the next couple days brrrrrrrr lol
i really really miss my mk3 lol and that had its probs lol
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you obviously didn't
a) read the instructions telling you to put the blanking plate directly on the manifold
b) read my project page where I'd made exactly the same error and the pipe snapped in half
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rhyso m8 cruel but true lol as it was getting dark but also the bolts at bottom of the pipe on the manifold look pretty badly rusted and with my heavy hand i will prob burst the nut off shearing the threaded part as vw told me( got the spray to get at rust on bolt but still i have bad luck lol or lack of know how) it aint a bolt it some kind of welded on thread? i will try but is it easier to jack the car up and go at it from underneath? as not much room way down there or what tools did you use?
cheers
lol i also need to do cylinder 2 loom as it reading electrical fault 18075 amd advises to change all.
is this correct link /procedure
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=120994.0
again thanks for all help so far (hope the lack of my own bumps on thread keeps me in good books lol)
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get a wobble bit and extension bar and you can get at it from the airbox side of things
Coat the bolts in penetrating fluid and leave for 10 minutes; they'll crack off without snapping :wink:
That link is for the coil pack wiring on a petrol so absolutely no use at all :tongue: well done for having a good search for things though :afro:
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was atr vw and long story but after some bad info from them i got gasket and nuts for manifold free, result and yes ten mins and a bit of hammering on a socket to one of the nuts it was changed and all good and sealed.
cheers,
now with vw messing up solinoid i gonna have to wait till next weekend to sort n75,
plus they said code numer n241 was faulty injector and that will be 550 quid please i said fu*k me and laughed with a tear but i will trychecking and changing the loom first (once i find step by step guide) for fault fingers crossed.
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well vw gave me this today they said n75 code brought up 3 different parts all circled dont worryabout the gasket that was another question i had for him. prises are next to them
(http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy67/laffalot99/080220101306.jpg)
prob is i dont know which one or all three need changed to fix as think the top 2 are the solinoid valve for boost pressure control so does that mean i need two ? as i no longer have egr so i think i only need one and that would be top laft????? as top right goes to egr or that still cause prob?
plus what is the part at bottom with the 24.58 plus vat thing? cant find it in haynes.
cheers
oh and that to everyone so far as since egr allard kit all sound and solid no more esp light on shprt journeys unless i really push it on a long one so i getting there just hope it aint the injector itself after all this.
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as you look at the engine bay its the one on your right :wink:
as a test you can swap the one for the EGR with the N75 to eliminate that as your problem
just remembered about this site
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm
Hopefully that will give you some ideas :smiley:
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think the N75 valve is number 9 £34
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think the N75 valve is number 9 £34
The two valves (9 & 10) they are the same part no(?)
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think they are 1 digit/letter different, but look exactly the same
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yeah guy said they the same but one was say ending in letter r the onther in say p for example. but he didnt mention or seemingly know what the bottom part was grrr nice but dim lol even with my crayon level explanation lol
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cheers for the link it book marked.
if no 9 is the n75 then i cant swap it as it is the part that is not going to anything as hav allard kit so it not connected to egr (unless i read it wrong). but if pic correct there is another what looks like n75 valve or solinoid on other side of engine,(i not had good look yet as car not at my house) it looks the asame and seems to be running down towards turbo? and on the off chance any idea the part at bottom of pic ?
this turning out to be one big ass thread.
sorry
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Have you had your actuator checked out?
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right on my t break the day i though i should try erase the fualt codes and see what happens on way home with a car full of my fellow workies. all good no limp mode but still kicked when i put foot down on most gradients (as it said in the link Rhyso gave me)
so just b4 i dropped them all off i gave it a big lick and yep the warning light for esp came on but no abs this time no limp mode and it just kicked like a mule till i pulled over and switched off then on.
back home got reade4r ran scan and now only 2 fault codes all n75 codes have gone, SO does that mean the allard kit solved them??????
codes left are 16686, cyclinder 2 missfire detected and 18075, valve for pump-jet: cylinder 2 (n241) electrical malfunction but it not straight from ignition it is only under turbo stress so is it really electrical fault?. so that where i at
1. do i presume no need for the parts in the diagram i had?
2. and whats every one reckon to the n241 thing as vw said that injector and only injector at 586 plus vat grrr or is it the harmess?????
3. acuator like adam said. how do i get it tested or how can i check?
what next? as it going to start getting really pricy soon ie trade in lol
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Glad the N75 code has gone.
16686 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/16686/P0302/000770
18075 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/18075/P1667
I wouldn't have thought it has anything to do with the vacuum system. It's an injector problem. Have a read at the links above.
Have you got access to Vag-Com? if so read blocks 08, Group 18. Should be 0 at idle and all should raise to the same and fall the same. You might just get away with replacing the harness but then again may be the injector. Have you run some injector cleaner throught the system? Worth a try, give Millers Diesel Cleaner a go.
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injector loom to cylinder 1 is f**ked u need a new loom 40 quid vw
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injector loom to cylinder 1 is f**ked u need a new loom 40 quid vw
Sure it will be cylinder 2.
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usually cylinder 1 makes the car work on 3 cylinders hence why it sh!t its a common fault
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The codes he has been getting relate to a cylinder 2 misfire and pump problem.
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so how about i get all 4 done at same time?
vw quoted me £49.27 including vat for the whole loom well i think so part number 038971600
or as suggested could i just get cyclinder 2 and one? as makes sence to get them all done.
could i do it myself? and step by step guides?
if not how much in labour you reckon (vw)? as i cld get harness and go to a vw specialist this next port of call looks like and i gonna get some of the innotect turbo cleaner of ebay to give it a clean out.
lol adam yeah we getting there lol (yeah i looked at that code site ages ago when someone maybe yourself posted to look at it hance i had info for codes on an old post on this thread) but if i saw this thread i wouldnt read it ha ha ha its too too long ha ha ha.
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that loom is for all the injectors not individual ones :smiley:
should be no more than a couple of hours work i would have thought :undecided:
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is it def a vw or specialist job? or can it b done on the drive????
any info on procedure?
will call vw tomorrow for quote for all getting done.
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is it def a vw or specialist job? or can it b done on the drive????
any info on procedure?
will call vw tomorrow for quote for all getting done.
any one with a basic mechanical knowledge should be able to do it
I've never done it so can't give you any info on how to do it
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onw injwctor is over 230 quid whats teh point when all u got is a f u c k e d wire
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arlight nadlad i ment get all the whole loom done for the injectors, not all the injectors m8 sod that lol i would just trade it in b4 that.
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I think mate this is your fix.......
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phoned vw today it booked in for monday for new injector loom all infor 134 of my running out beer tokens. After talking to guy about prob AGAIN i remarked that after alot of info and help from forum i narrowed it down to this at which point he took the hump got a wee big of a telephone tough guy attitude (lol i hav seen this guy and i would through him about like a wet tracksuit lol) told me not to listen to you, the people who hav taken time to listen and make sense of my mess, and that to hand the car over and THEY would find the prob and at this point i though what a TW*T so i hope they acctually do renew the loom as i hav heard some horror stories from a vw master tech a couple years bk about vw screwing the cust saying it a more expensive part gone wrong or easy fix done for alot of money grrr parannoya (spelling) lol
well update monday night. (if not fixed trade in lol)
or i will be in a nice cold cell for giving the wee man a slap or 2 lol.
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UPDATE
:smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :cry: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :kiss: :smiley: :laugh: :tongue: :smiley: :smiley:
ALL IS WELL NO STUTTERING after 1hr at speeds of 60 to cough cough a ton or so with 4 of us workies in the car.
vw changed loom and said that they werent sure why i was getting it done lol after me explaining it all to them tw*ts
so forum 1 dealer 0
they did however give the car a once over and found a couple of things needing done but look out for the threads lol sorry
oh also gonna get that innotec thing to clean turbo see what difference it makes.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE HELP AND ADVICE / LINKS
CHEERS AGAIN
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Result :cool: :cool:
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At last, good job :cool:
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Good stuff