what downpipes do you use on your abf conversions?

[paultownsend]

as above.

can my 8v downpipe bolt up to the abf manifold? i already use a 1cm spacer plate on my 2.0 8v conversion and i have no clearence issues from the tall block. it'll make life easier when joining up to my exhaust system. also, i assume a lambda sensor hole needs to be welded in?

Paul

[Diamond Hell]

One we made arrr-selves.

[...joe]

one you made a for a syncro...

you 'should' be fine with the 8 valve downpipe, but a 16v will obviously flow better. the standard ABF manifold is pretty efficient as it is.

[VeeDubGTI16v]

One we made arrr-selves.

i would have thought thats where the extra few bhp comes from, not from the abf management 

thats a nicely designed  manifold

[paultownsend]

or i could use the abf manifold, downpipe and a de-cat pipe? or reducer!

[danny_p]

thats a nicely designed  manifold

now its been called everything

[VeeDubGTI16v]

you dont think so? it looks a bit thrown together but i bet it flows well. not sure why the lambda is where it is though?

[sidecarphil]

where is the lamdba hole ??

i cant see it  am i blind 

[rubjonny]

OEM fitment you have 3 choices
1. Use your old 8v downpipe, 16v manifold: Bore isnt as big as a 16v on the end but will save you buying a new exhaust system!  8v system is 2", 16v is 2.25".
2. MK2 16v manifold/downpipe: direct fit, no knocking but you'll need a 16v system to fit to it or a reducer.  Main issue with 16v downpipe is it has the resonator box which wont fit thru the gap without droppin subframe or pulling the steering rack forward.
3. G60 downpipe/cat bypass, 16v manifold: Direct fit to a std MK2 16v zaust system, will fit thru the gap easy peasy.

Options 1 & 2 need a lambda bung welding in, G60 cat bypass pipe will come with one already fitted

[Diamond Hell]

where is the lamdba hole ??

i cant see it am i blind

It's in the cross-piece.

I did it that way, because that's how VW fit the lambda in the G60 downpipe.  Fitting it this way ensures it's sampling the mix from all four pots, rather than not knowing if any of them go lean.

The tubular manifold *was* a declared mod on that dyno plot  Also, if it was running on a certain mechanical injection system, that wouldn't be able to compensate like the Digi 3.2 does, so the argument still stands.

Having seen the restrictive standard set up off an ABF/KR/PB etc I think a wrapped tubular manifold would be one of the best investments in a 16V motor that one could make.  The motor wants to flow, so let it - the exhaust manifold is the answer to that flow issue.