No antifreeze in car, cooling system full of ice ... need advice

[Ben Lessani]

I had another check today and I felt the core plugs again and one of them is raised, I could only feel 3 - is there 3 or 4 on the Golf? Two are recessed by about 3mm and the one nearest cyl. 4 is just above flush.

What should I do exactly, remove the core plug and refit a new one, or can I just try to tap it back into place (albeit extemely tight), or could I just leave it as long as its not leaking?

Also, when removing the metal cooling pipe I managed to damage a wire. I've resoldered the wire today, but the car won't start, there appears to be no fuel pressure. I was having trouble with this a few weeks ago, but after replacing some grounds for the fuel pumps - all was well. The car has been stationary for 4 weeks without being started, so this has probably had some knock on effect.

If my wire fix is not up to scratch - what is the implication of it being broken - could this cause my fuel pressure issue? Then one in question is the one which connects to the fuel regulator (?) on the block itself, featured just above the oil cooler in the photo below...

[rubjonny]

that is just a heater for the wur, so it wont effect fuel pressure.  its fed from the output of the fuel pump relay though, so if you allowed it to earth anywhere then you would have blown the fuel pump fuse

[Ben Lessani]

Fuse no 5 is it? I'll give it a check - but the IGN was off the whole time so I doubt its gone. Also, I remember you answering a post about my car a while back where the fuel pump wasn't priming and you said the relay is probably the wrong one - don't suppose you know what number relay it should be (I know its position 2).

What should I do about the core plug that is raised?

[rubjonny]

aye fuse #5, the relay number I think should be '2' as in the number on the relay, not position which is also '2' confusingly
If it was me I'd put new core plugs in, but you might get away with tapping it back in if you can actually get to it.  If you end up having to take the manifold off then while you have the access I'd put 3 new ones in!

You can bypass the relay using a chunky wire with a spade crimped on each end, stick it in the relay sockets where the 2 large pins from the relay go in.

[Ben Lessani]

The whole area round the back of the block is pretty damn inaccessible! Would I have to remove the intake mani and exhaust mani to get to them? Sounds quicker to remove the engine!!

I tried reaching a hammer in the gap and although it fits, I didn't have enough room to swing it I raided the garage for a big G clamp but only found little ones.

If only I had my engine crane down here, I have a few things to sort out, the newly fitted stearing gaitors have torn, the pressure feed going into the rack is leaking and the gaskets on the differential flanges need replacing.

This tme of year is not friendly for car fixing without a sizeable garage - its feckin freezing!

[rubjonny]

aye, what you need is some kind of 'inverse press' that braces against the zaust manifold, thewn you wind it open to press in the plugs.  I've got to finish putting all my dash back in today, I'm not looking forward to it 

[Ben Lessani]

Unlucky you - I've never had to misfortune to ever have to remove/insert a full dash - but it doesn't look easy!

I'm still browsing forums and putting off actually going outside and getting cold because I don't want to have to remove the intake manifold to get to the freeze plugs!

[monzablue16v]

Tell me about it, I have a head gasket to finish doing!

[Ben Lessani]

Pipe fitted  Radiator burst 

ECP are giving me a new one at £50 all in

[Ben Lessani]

Noooooooooooooo 

I have noticed when I put the blowers on hot, I'm getting a strange residue on the windscreen afterwards - looks like when fuel mixes with water. So I can almost guess that my matrix has gone.

Is there a definitive test to double check before I go about trying to sort it? I was thinking of blocking the inlet off, then fitting a tyre valve to the outlet and pressurising it and listening for a leak inside and keeping an eye on the gauge.