Author Topic: Probably a stupid question but any help would be great.  (Read 1252 times)

Offline tomcatscreenplays

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Probably a stupid question but any help would be great.
« on: 23 September 2008, 22:35 »
Hi all
I haven't had a (real) golf GTI for a couple of years now (my last gti was 150 turbo mk4 which I don't count) but I have had 4 mk2's the last being a modded 16v.
I have been offered a mk2 16v very cheap and cosmetically it's perfect but has an engine in bits in a box and nothing else that would go in the engine bay (wiring included) does anyone have any idea what sort of money (as a very rough idea) I would have to put into the car to get it roadworthy if I assume there is nothing that comes with it apart from the engine?
If anyone also knows the pro's and con's of 16v on carbs against a VR6 conversion that would be great helping me decide which direction to go.
I was going to use ebay and breakers for as many of the parts as possible as my money tree isn't having its best harvest.
This is by far the biggest build involvement I've ever thought of taking on so any advice I would be very grateful.
Tom 

Offline danny_p

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Re: Probably a stupid question but any help would be great.
« Reply #1 on: 23 September 2008, 22:42 »
£500

throw / give the box of engine bits away and go buy mk3 golf or seat tolado 2.0 16v.    park next to golf and proceeed to swap bits if the golf is 90 speck it'll all be plug and play 
all the VW's have gone bar 1.

Offline tomcatscreenplays

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Re: Probably a stupid question but any help would be great.
« Reply #2 on: 23 September 2008, 22:47 »
Thanks for that, I think it's an 89 which could be a bit of a pig, it's a G pate so I'll have to check because it has the 90 spec body mouldings/bumpers.
Is it very different if it turns out to be an 89?

Offline rubjonny

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Re: Probably a stupid question but any help would be great.
« Reply #3 on: 24 September 2008, 11:28 »
Check the hazard switch location, column = 90spec dash = pre-90, headertank is a give away also, round = 90spec :)
Splicing the mk3 engine harness to the MK2 fusebox wont be that hard if it is pre-90, you only need to worry about the engine side the lighting part you fit from another MK2 and leave alone.  Other option is to fit a complete 90spec MK2 car loom, bit more work but not too bad once dash & carpets are out, tho you need all the fusebox, fusebox hanger and outer column assembly.  Easiest way for you is to unwrap the MK3 engine harness and bin everything not linked to the ECU, then get your pre-90 MK2 harness and bin everything that IS connected to the ECU.  Once you've done that use my fuisebox faq to figure out what the remaining wires are, and where on the pre-90 plugs they need to go.  Or ask on here!  Also if you do end up with an ABF pm me your email addy I have ABF ECU wiring diagrams.

Keep the MK2 coil/tci setup though as the MK3 ECU signal wont run the MK2 rev counter, plus the MK3 coils are a bit pants.  What you do is chop off the MK3 coil and splice the green/red wire to pin 6 of the TCI-H unit (thats the metal thing bolted to the top of the 16v ecu bracket)

For the fueling side you need to connect push fit abf lines to the threaded k-jet fuel line fittings, what I do is find a pair of under car line -> metering head hoses, you chop the ends out which leaves you with a pait of threaded fittings with a barbed end, push the abf lines on there and clamp with decent fuel pipe clips :)

Oh and you'll need to fit a lambda probe into your exhaust somehow, a G60 downpipe + cat bypass is a bolt on solution if you can find one, or you can get a suitable lambda boss off ebay and have it welded in.

Other option is to find a k-jet 16v harness and run the abf on that, easier in the short term. (danny i have my bullet proof vest and running shoes on :grin:)

I hope all that makes some sence!
« Last Edit: 24 September 2008, 11:30 by rubjonny »
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.