T_T may know what's best, I reckon. Though if I recall correctly, he may not have agreed with AP Racing's use of Dot 5.1 fluid for road use.
I think I previously stated (though it probably got lost when the forum went down) that virtually all DOT5.1 fluids are snake oil, and are completely un-necessary on a road car. Furthermore, from model year 2008, ANY brake fluid which does not meet VW 501.14 spec will invalidate the VW warranty.
Lets take the specific AP Racing 5.1 - it has a wet boiling point of 187°C, whereas the genuine VW brake fluid has a wet boiling point of 172°C - so not much difference. Furthermore, the VW fluid is a specific "low viscosity" brake fluid, for use in ABS and ESP systems. The AP 5.1 is not, therefore will make the ABS/ESP slower reacting. Both the AP 5.1 and the genuine VW fluids have a normal service life of two years, but the real killer is the cost. AP 5.1 costs about £40 per litre, whereas the VW stuff retails for £7 per litre, with 10-15% discount just for asking. 
....TT - Then, would you advise me to use (genuine) VW fluid instead of the Dot 5.1 when I next service my AP brakes?
If AP Racing, or indeed anyone else brings out an "ESP" rated DOT5.1, and you are out of warranty, and you
must have a 5.1 fluid, then go for it. But as far as I have researched, no 5.1 fluid is ESP rated, so I would recommend using the VW fluid.
Quite honestly I am not prepared to sacrifice/compromise any safety for the sake of cost [Not said in anyway contradicting your post].
Absolutely. And I didn't take as a contradiction - just an honest and friendly question.

I had experienced brake fade on my stock brakes and was lucky that the truck took avoiding action! It's what prompted me to take up AP Racing's generous offer.
But brake
fade has nothing to do with brake fluid. Brake fade is when the friction lining on the pad overheats - this then gives off a "gas" (which is why drilled discs are good at preventing genuine brake fade). This brake fade then makes the brake pedal feel very unresponsive. Sometimes the pedal can feel quite "hard", but travel a long way (sometimes nearly to the floor), and other times, the brake pedal feels very "wooden".
So brake fade is a result of not being able to get rid of the heat quick enough. Did you have your open fog grilles then?
Regarding brake fluids, and the different "boiling points" - well that is the fundamental issue - between the obsolete DOT3, the current DOT4 - and the so called high performance aftermarket DOT5 (nasty, evil shyte) and DOT5.1. However, the ONLY reason to "upgrade" to a 5.1 fluid is if you can boil your exisiting, and fresh DOT4. Boiling brake fluid creates air bubbles in the system. If you have a basic understanding of hydraulics, you will know that all
liquids (ie brake fluid) can not be compressed, whereas
gasses (ie the air in brake fluid) can be compressed. Boiling brake fluid is sometimes referred to as "vapour lock" - but basically, if you get air in the brake hydraulics (from either boiled fluid, or simply letting the level drop too far in the master cylinder resevoir) - then the actual brake pedal will feel very "spongy". The pedal may, or may not go all the way to the floor, but the actual braking efficiency of the wheel brakes will not be altered (providing there is enough pedal to pressure the system).
A very simple way to determine between brake fade (overheated pads) and vapour lock (air in the fluid) - is to repeatedly "pump" the brake pedal. If you are able to pump the pedal back upto a normal height, then it is air in the system. With brake fade, you can pump away like a cherry boy in a brothel, but the pedal will not change.
AP said to me exactly what you have said about drilling and how there are companies out there that take advantage of a market where Jo Bloggs simply fancies the cool look on his discs and he doesn't have a clue.
Absolutely. But don't forget, many peeps do mods purely for looks, and not any improvement in function! I think you sit on both sides of the fence in that.
