Getting a valver.

[LazyLunatic]

OK, firstly i want a 16v. So no posts saying get a 8v or vr6. 

I have read the buying a mk3 thread, in the info section and got some nice info from that, some good tips on what to look out for.

Is there anything else i should know when looking online? Any tricks that can be played to fool the buyer (other than those mentioned in the info thread)?

I am looking for a mk3 gti 16v - preferably a 3dr, in black/blue/green. It would be nice though to have great bodywork, as cant be arsed with body repairs. standard if possible too. Looking to get one by end of Nov, as thats when my insurance renewal is up and get more NCB!  So i have started to look now, if i do get one before then, i will tidy it up, coilies on it, clean it, get some dub alloys, clean it, fit sound system and then clean it some more!!!

Also, should i look to get one with less than 100,000? I mean what is the AVERAGE life on a mk3 gti? (500,000 )


Cheers peeps,

any help is much appreciated,

LL

[azzrobz]

Well tbh m8 if your buying off an enthusiast then your not going to be able to 'trick him/her, as their most likely going to be well clued up, just remember people these days price there car 300-400 quid more expensive than they actually want for the car, due to the credit crunch ect,  Also its a buyer's market so be cheeky with you offers you never know the buyer may give in, the worst they can do is say no.
btw good choice with the valver far far far far better than the Vr's 
Good luck with your search 

[LazyLunatic]

cheers, m8. Nice advice with the making a v. low offer, they can only say no!

LL

[MrTurner]

You tend to get what you pay for too - if you research properly that is.  Don't get fooled by a 'bargain'.  Things are usually cheap for a reason..  Set a budget, stick to it, and leave yourself enough for repairs in case you get a lemon!  Most expense I can think of is a replacement gearbox or engine, so make sure you have around £400 just in case...

[Mr Blue]

all i can say is look for rust. underbody/sills, arches THE LOT

Ive had a few ABF's and they are quite rapid.

Get a late one

[VW BUSH]

All three door mk3s are more prone to rust in the rear sills/qtr panel and in the door jam area, Jacking points are weak and often buckle when using the VW Jack (Widow maker).
This is a big cause of sill rot.
Windcsreen rust caused by stone chips is a mare to put right if its got under the rubber
mk2 and mk3 valvers do tend to frag the engine mounts rear one is a pain to change but not too exp. listen for knocking when engine breaking or dabbing the throttle
Check gear change mech (cable etc) and 1st n second gears can get chompy with age/wear.
ABS unit is 300 quid recon so be sure any abs probs are sensor related.
I would look for rust as the mechs are always fairly easy to sort
But stay away from GSF cheepy bits as they never last buy German or from the stealers
VWs are pretty solid generally so if it looks good it normally is.

I know of a 96 5dr valver in dark blue totaly std just gone for £900
few bit of trim missing and 90k on the clock and no rust, Bargain!

[LazyLunatic]

awesome, nice stuff.

defo gunna get a late one if i can. Im just gunna wait for the right one to come along, and one that is near (ish) to me, so i can go see it before buying, test drive, etc.

LL

[VW BUSH]

in my opinion the golf valvers are the best.
Check for blue smoke and soot around the zaust normally comes with tappet noise when cold or at idle.
when worn and smokey they do get worse quickly and frag the cat in the process.
Also rev hunting at idle when hot is a good give away to further fueling and leccy probs also high engine wear.
Good luck looking, i miss my MK2 KR more than any car ive had
When im flush thats what im gettin again although the MK3 vlvr comes in very close second.
For now im happy doin the old man in my 8v

[kells]

if your after a late mk 3, beware of rust problems.....thats all im gonna say

think my mate is selling his valver soon, light metalic blue like guys, forge blue not sure how u spell it lol, its a N plate 120k, no rust. if your interested i can ask him more about it

just so u know, we found perfomance isnt much over the 8v, we know as we have had both against eachother

[Tim in Holland]

Are the late Mk3s more prone to rust than the early one? I thought the post 95 ones were galvanised. Going to be off on a search for a valver shortly so watching this thread with interest.