Not running well/engine faltering

[SlySi]

Hello

My P-plate 16v has had a succession of faults, however- I'm still having problems with it juddering/faltering, either ever so slightly at cruising speed and it seems to lurch a bit on gerar changes. Had the HT leads, dist. cap, rotor arm and plugs changed- which seemed to make a bit of an improvement but not much- last week my mechanic said that the computer he'd plugged in for diagnosis was showing nothing, but replaced the coil (second hand one), and it is still playing up- it just does not run smoothly at the mo'.

I have read various posts about the relays needing replacing, but the mechanic didn't think it was that. The car idles fine whilst stationary, so I don't think it's a fuel problem. I'm wondering if it's A: the coil needs to be a new one, or B: these relays. I'm willing to try the relays- does anyone know how to fit them please? It's just I'm gonna be using the car for the long weekend coming up, and just want piece of mind and no recovery hassles...!

Can anyone shed light please??

[DazVR6]

Relays 167 and 30 are both possible culprits, replace both but make sure you get em from the dealer, should be £25 or there abouts for both.

Both these relays are located in the fuse box above the fuses. To get to the fuse box look under your steering wheel to the right, you should see a cover with 2 green tabs on it, press them and off comes the cover.

Best way to get a good view of the relays is to get on your hands and knees and look up into the fuse box with a torch, locate the relays and get a firm grip on them and wiggle em out.

Also i'd say replace all your vac lines  (esp from throttle body to ecu) with 3mm id silicone ones and also clean out you throttle body with carb cleaner

[SlySi]

Thanks very much for the advice- I'll try the relays tomorrow, but not heard of the vac lines suggestion before.

[Pete Taylor]

Sounds like the standard characteristics of a valver mate. They're all the same, overrun on decelleration etc