Oil on clutch - will it clear?

[Ade244]

On my valver the clutch has started slipping. It's only 2500miles old so I know it's OK.
I noticed a lot of oil around the inspection hole so I think it's had some oil drip in from the dizzy.

Will this oil clear itself from the clutch plate? or is it new clutch time again?

The dizzy leak is weird, it seems to be comming from the outside of the dizzy, theres no oil inside it.
Is this an easy fix?

Cheers,
Ade

[Diamond Hell]

£10 says it's nothing to do with your dizzi.

Another £10 says the crank seal on your engine has gone.

My final £10 says your friction disk is oil soaked and won't recover.  You will need to get a new friction disk.

[Khare]

£10 you will be spending much more than £10 fixing it

[Ade244]

Right then I think I'm in the money...

I plugged the inspection hole with a cork to stop further oil getting in. I then cleaned all the oil off from the area and took it for a drive.

It looks like I have a small leak from the dizzy but a bigger one from the oil pressure switch. The oils dripping out past the insulator and dropping right into the inspection hole cover.

The clutch... I gave it full beans today in fith and let it slip like mad for 20 secs, then drove it careful for a few mliles. I figured it's worth a shot. The clutch now is holding the power now so I think I may be OK.

 

[Agreeable Slick]

your friction disc will absorb the oil, then be eaten away by it. New clutch time.

[DarnPB]

Yup, as he ^^^^^^^^^says. You will need a new friction disc. These you can buy seperately so it won't cost a fortune. Whilst you have the gearbox out, just check the crankshaft seal to make sure that is fluid tight. Then sort out the dizzy oil leak pronto.

[Ade244]

Can someone just confirm for me...

If the oils leaking from around the dizzy body but I've got no oil inside the actual dizzy and cap, does this indicate I just need to change the O ring between the body and the head? All my oil seems to be coming from the dizzy I've worked out now.

I don't want to buy a new dizzy if the internal seals OK. I just put a new arm and cap on this one anyway.

Also what I thought was an oil switch turns out to be a water temp sender, one of the three at the end of the head. One temp switch doesn't appear to be doing anything, just in the head. Does the ECU need this one to be working? (i've just snapped the tab off )

It never just rains does it...

Cheers,
Ade.

[Diamond Hell]

The sender in the head is the low oil pressure sender.

The water temperature senders are on the flange that the hose goes on.

[jezza16v]

The 3 x temp senders on the 16v are screwed directly into the gearbox end of the cylinder head, not on the hose flange.
All three are the same and you can swap the wires over. Two are vital to the proper engine staring/running the third to the temp gauge is not vital, if you've broken one, disconnect the one that feeds the temp gauge and connect the one off the broken one to that while you source a new one.  A good way to check they're working is to swap the temp gauge wire to each one in turn and see if you get a similar reading on the temp gauge.

[Ade244]

Ah great thanks guys.
Thats a job for later then...

My temp gauge has always read very low anyway so I suspect it had a faulty sensor anyway.
Whats the chances the one I broke off was the temp gauge... I'm not holding my breath.

I found a few cables rubbed back to the conductors also last night so I've got to patch them up at the same time.

The oil switch one then I guess is on the back of the head at the same end but facing the bulkhead..
 
Cheers