Author Topic: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?  (Read 3121 times)

Offline MarkS

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #10 on: 26 March 2008, 17:00 »
What effect would increasing the fuelling have?
Only bad ones?
Even if set up correctly?

Offline clipperjay

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #11 on: 26 March 2008, 17:20 »
Your ECU has limits and it will only defult to a generic map and this will not give you more fuel or bigger spark?
At WOT the mapp is curved so it can handle more fuel at its limits, but physically changing the fuel pressure regulator will just flood the thing or dumping a new remapp when your motor can't handle it.
If you need more fuel You need more oxygen to match the timing of your engine.
Not sure what you are asking here, but over fueling will just choke up your block not improve effeiciency.
There is a reason why its £12 and I stand by my coments on a Rolling road mapps!
 

Offline Mew

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #12 on: 26 March 2008, 17:56 »
As for curing digi-lag, just get the timing an CO spot on with the original chip. I had a chip from ebay when i had a digi and it did make a difference to the way the car drove, but i'm not sure it made it any more responsive? I just found that the engine pulled harder above 4k with the mod chip in.

I'd say your best bet is to get down to the local garage and chuck someone £15 (that you will pay for the chip) for the 10 minutes to do your CO levels and idle set up properly a la Rubjonny's guide. Chances are that will rid you of your idle issues and digilag  :smiley:

Offline MarkS

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #13 on: 26 March 2008, 18:08 »

Your ECU has limits and it will only defult to a generic map and this will not give you more fuel or bigger spark?
At WOT the mapp is curved so it can handle more fuel at its limits, but physically changing the fuel pressure regulator will just flood the thing or dumping a new remapp when your motor can't handle it.
If you need more fuel You need more oxygen to match the timing of your engine.
Not sure what you are asking here, but over fueling will just choke up your block not improve effeiciency.
There is a reason why its £12 and I stand by my coments on a Rolling road mapps!
 

Yeah I see what you mean.
This is what I'm getting at-

"Later Digifant cars appear to be tuned to run lean from the factory.
One tweak which is known to L-Jetronic tuners and that can work on the Digifant cars is to slightly loosen the spring tension on the air flow sensor.

By reducing the spring tension on the AFS you are essentially allowing more air to flow into the intake for a given throttle position. This "tricks" the computer into supplying more fuel at lower RPM, in effect richening the mixture throughout the range up to about 4,000 RPM when the AFS is wide open anyway.

Reducing AFS Spring Tension

To reduce the spring tension, first remove the black plastic cover on the air flow sensor by cutting up through the silicone sealer with a sharp blade. You will see, among other things, a black gear-wheel on top of what looks like a clock spring. A wire clip engages a tooth on the gear-wheel and is held in place by a 7 mm screw.

Scribe a permanent mark on the gear-wheel at the tooth where the wire clip engages (This is so you can go back to the stock setting if need be).

This is the tricky bit: Get a good grip on the gear wheel with your fingers. Loosen the 7 mm screw and wire clip assembly. Don't drop anything, and whatever you do, don't let go of that spring, or you may never get the car to run correctly again!

Now, carefully unwind the gear-wheel 3 teeth counter-clockwise. This is no more than 8 or 9 mm, so be careful. Reset the wire clip three teeth to the loose side of stock. Tighten down the 7 mm screw, replace the black cover with a thin bead of silicone sealer and you're done.

I tried one, three, and five teeth... one didn't seem to do much, five actually reduced power. Three was just right. Stay with three teeth because the down side of too rich a mixture will be increased emissions, and possible damage to the O2 sensor and/or catalytic converter. YMMV.

I can report that this tweak helps solves some perceived Digifant driveability problems (assuming all else is in order). Hesitation is reduced, throttle response is crisper, and there is mildly quicker acceleration in the lower gears due to increased torque. Gas mileage does not appear to suffer much"

Basically, fooling the engine into thinking there is more air coming in than there really is.
Thus increasing fuelling
Obviously increasing the air flow as much as possible as well is important.
Seemed a success on ClubGTi.
Not saying it's a suitable replacement to setting the timing correctly, just interested what people's views are?
 :smiley:

Offline cняis

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #14 on: 26 March 2008, 18:58 »

very long post


that is VERY SIMILAR what an Ebay resistor chip does. TRICKS the ecu into thinking its getting denser air etc.

beware!

is it worth causing bore wash?


I don't think a semi will give the same results

Offline Godzilla

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #15 on: 26 March 2008, 19:11 »
ISV will affect take off it did mine now thats what I called digi-lag!


An ISV thats not working properly could cause Digi-lag?  I know of a local scrappy that wants £30 for one, could be as bad as mine though!  Mins is pristine inside, its had at least 1 complete can of Carb cleaer sprayed in the holes. It also buzz's when the ignition is on, so there is power going to it.

Offline jezza16v

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #16 on: 26 March 2008, 19:47 »
Hi Paul, your ISV being pristine does not mean its working properly. After we set it up it was working but very slowly so it adjusted the revs up and down til it eventually stabilised, but very slowly. The isv is like a small throttle which is governed by the ecu to regulate the idle speed to the preset level when the engine is under variable load from the electrics or the PAS as you noticed. If the isv is sticky it will respond slowly hence under and overshooting the correct idle speed, and it could be if you used carb cleaner because it clears off all lubricant. I looked this up on a Canadian web site and they recommend after cleaning with brake/carb, spraying a bit of light lube into it. It may just be the electrical part of the isv thats failed or failing. (anyone got a cutaway pic of an isv or taken one apart?) You also need to check that the idle switch is operating when the throttle closes. I know we couldn't find it on yours, but apparently it does have one but its underneath the throtle body somewhere. I'm sure its ok though cos when we unplugged the ISV it idled just fine until you turned the lights on or turned the steering?? Not sure why she should be using more fuel though, we reduced the CO and the idle screw a lot once the timing was set. Also the timing was retarded by 3-4 degrees thats why it revved up a bit as we turned the dizzy to correct it. Do not despair, at least it runs reliably. Changed that hose yet? :smiley: Thought I'd say this lot on here rather than PM you so others can read it and perhaps provide some useful input.

Offline clipperjay

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #17 on: 26 March 2008, 21:25 »

very long post


that is VERY SIMILAR what an Ebay resistor chip does. TRICKS the ecu into thinking its getting denser air etc.

beware!

is it worth causing bore wash?

Overfueling is just an electrical signal sent to the ECU and the ECU making the corrections. That tit bit on ClubGti is correct if you fool the ECU in believing the car is breathing better it will dump more fuel into the intake to match, but why do this if there is no more oxygen you have to understand the nature of physics or chemistry for that matter. A match will burn brighter and hotter with oxygen blowing onto it, what’s the result hotter and burns quicker enough said. Make the match longer burns slower and stays the same temperature & more consistent. Well no difference in the engine theory of combustion engine.

Someone mentioned Bore wash (Crevice) Meaning that due to dripping injectors for what ever reasons like over fuelling can cause a wash of oil of the bores and cause scorching when the fuel ignites. So I’m guessing unless it’s a clean burn timing set correctly within its limits you are essentialy melting your pistons away and shorten your life of the block. I like speed but better methods of getting the most out of your block and car out there than a magic chip or fake sensor readings?

Turbos
Superchargers
Bore out the block bigger pistons with custom fuel mapps.
Increase air flow
Lowering air intake temps by 60%.
Rolling road to see where its suffering could be timing could be fuelling could be electrical?

ISV will affect take off it did mine now thats what I called digi-lag!


An ISV thats not working properly could cause Digi-lag?  I know of a local scrappy that wants £30 for one, could be as bad as mine though!  Mins is pristine inside, its had at least 1 complete can of Carb cleaer sprayed in the holes. It also buzz's when the ignition is on, so there is power going to it.

It could look like a chromed dildo doesn't mean it's NOT fo*ked. Best thing is to try one thats working off another motor just to be sure it makes any difference?
£30 going rate cheaper than mine off a MKIII I paid £40 but anything is better than £200 from stealers!  :rolleyes:

Jay

Offline MarkS

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #18 on: 27 March 2008, 11:04 »

very long post


that is VERY SIMILAR what an Ebay resistor chip does. TRICKS the ecu into thinking its getting denser air etc.

beware!

is it worth causing bore wash?

Overfueling is just an electrical signal sent to the ECU and the ECU making the corrections. That tit bit on ClubGti is correct if you fool the ECU in believing the car is breathing better it will dump more fuel into the intake to match, but why do this if there is no more oxygen you have to understand the nature of physics or chemistry for that matter. A match will burn brighter and hotter with oxygen blowing onto it, what’s the result hotter and burns quicker enough said. Make the match longer burns slower and stays the same temperature & more consistent. Well no difference in the engine theory of combustion engine.

Someone mentioned Bore wash (Crevice) Meaning that due to dripping injectors for what ever reasons like over fuelling can cause a wash of oil of the bores and cause scorching when the fuel ignites. So I’m guessing unless it’s a clean burn timing set correctly within its limits you are essentialy melting your pistons away and shorten your life of the block. I like speed but better methods of getting the most out of your block and car out there than a magic chip or fake sensor readings?

Turbos
Superchargers
Bore out the block bigger pistons with custom fuel mapps.
Increase air flow
Lowering air intake temps by 60%.
Rolling road to see where its suffering could be timing could be fuelling could be electrical?


This is quite interesting.
Would it not be possible to increase the airflow in a suitable amount in conjunction with the extra fuelling?

I know there are better ways of increasing engine performance but superchargers and turbos aren't cheap!  :sad:

How would you lower the air intake temperature?

(I'm not saying that afm trick is necessary, or even advisable, I'm just interested really  :smiley: )

Offline clipperjay

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Re: Digi-lag cured by Blitzchip?
« Reply #19 on: 27 March 2008, 14:17 »
Quote
This is quite interesting.
Would it not be possible to increase the airflow in a suitable amount in conjunction with the extra fuelling?

I know there are better ways of increasing engine performance but superchargers and turbos aren't cheap!  :sad:

How would you lower the air intake temperature?

(I'm not saying that afm trick is necessary, or even advisable, I'm just interested really  :smiley: )

No its all good if you have questions thats what most of us are here for to share the same knowledge, but don't take my word for things I suggest doing a bit of light reading or web browsing if you are interested?

The ECU has been tested time after time by VAG to take average temperatures and match fuelling needs against all sensors, now intercoolers are great if the amount of air flow is large like turbos and chargers. As for normally aspirated engines like yours it will have little or no affect as the block is not designed to take more oxygen levels, plus ambient air is its main source. The only thing you can do is lower the temps or increase air flow on hot days where oxygen is less dense in hot climates and as colder climates create more denser oxygen in a smaller cubic space.

Real benefits would be drill a few holes in the air filter box lower half only (wing side) so your filter can benefit from more air flow when the engine is at full chatt. Re direct the air source route from the wheel arches or under skirt so you have a direct cold air feed forced into the air box. Never lose your paper filter it helps too keep sh!t out of the induction, but this does mean you will end up changing the filter out after six months or less due to particle dirt flowing in. Advance the timing slightly to take advantage of the extra airflow, but real terms a few more BHP nothing substantial.
 I dislike cone filters because they soak heated air from the surrounding engine bays!
Heat shields made from chicken wire and foil around the downpipes can help stop heat from rising into the bay or heat wraps on the downpipes are good short term solutions.
Higher octane fuel and advance the timing a tad to get the benefits.

Just a few things to start unless you have cash to burn then it gets interesting!
What you have to ask is why do most sport cars and super cars need to be servicing more frequent than normal cars?
Unless you have dramatically changed the Engine like flowed head work you cannot really obtain huge gains unless your car is not running right in the first place. A good base to work with is a good start.

Jay