Project golf - STILL will not run (but backfires!)

[rubjonny]

it should be ok, normally the puller will chew up the adaptor rather than damage the column.  if you're worried, thread the nut back on

You can put the surround bolt in if you like, but it wont make a difference.  you only need it in if you plan to go the hammer route

[cняis]

thanks buddy, always helpful!

[cняis]

right well the puller would not grip the splie adapter firmly enough, so i went about removing the bolt connecting the UJ's to the inner steering column. The inner column came out without much fuss, so then i removed and replaced the ignition switch.

after re-inserting the inner steering column, i found that the UJ's will NOT slip back onto the inner column properly, no matter how hard i tried. i even cable-tied the spring in 2 places to compress it, stopping it from popping the UJ's back off. the inner column only sits inside the UJ about 0.5cm. this is with the UJ bolt removed as i realise the bottom of the inner column has a recess in it for the bolt to slide past.


any tips on getting the inner column back into the UJs fully?

i then thought "sod it" as i'd spent 90 mins trying to get the UJs back on, so i thought "i'll just test the ignition switch" as that is why the column came out to start with. so i placed the plug back onto the switch, turned the ignition, and..... same as before! 

so the faffing switch was fine anyway!

so to recap, i uneccessarily paid for and fitted a new ignition switch which has not solved the problem and has left me with no steering!!

f###ing Golf.

could i be looking at a new ignition or fuel pump relay? if so where are these/what number are they? basically it will fire straight away but as soon as the key sits back into position 2 (running position) it cuts out. i have not disturbed any connections in the engine bay and all relays are pushed in/all fuses have been checked.

model is a 1989 early digi 8v gti (hazard switch on dash) so i appareciate the relay layout is different to my late 1990 8v

[rubjonny]

the uj will only go on 1 way, so make sure you line up the missing spline tooth with the gap in the UJ.  Then its just a case of keep trying till it goes in!
As for the fusebox differences, check my FAQ it shows you where all the reys are.  1 thing to check, make sure the blower works with the ignition on, as well as the headlights.

[cняis]

yes the blower works, as do the headlights (i think)

any other ideas??

[cняis]

im 99% sure the blower/headlights do work. assuming they do what am i looking to fix?

if they don't work, what then?

this is really annoying me now, im trying not to spend any monies here! 

[rubjonny]

well im stumped, can you check at the ign switch that you get 12v both at pin 15 and pin x with the ign on?

[cняis]

well im stumped, can you check at the ign switch that you get 12v both at pin 15 and pin x with the ign on?

Thanks again, I will take a look. Will the "15" and "X" be stamped on the bottom of the ign switch? should i be checking for 12v in position 2 or 3?

I take it the best way to check this is to prise off the plug slightly whilst inserting multimeter probes between the switch and the plug? (Please excuse my ignorance!)

hypothetically speaking, if i have no 12v running through what am i looking to replace? (bearing in mind i have just fitted a brand new ign switch. Plus i swapped relay number 1 (#53), as it seemed to click on position 2, with a known good one from my daily golf and that made no difference)



A couple of side-notes:

I could not feel relay no.2 click when ign was switched on, thinking about it logically, shouldn't it click when position 2 is engaged? (fuel pump, what # is this meant to be, it has no # marked on it! edit: looks like "80 = MK2 digifant fuel pump relay") That said, the car will run when cranked but stall when it stops cranking over, surely that cant be a pump problem?

Also, when i knock it back from position 2, occasionally (after a failed start) the engine will almost backfire...

The biggest heartache is the fact that this car was running FINE 6 weeks ago. 

[rubjonny]

they will be marked on the switch, you should be able tyo put the probe of a multimeter in the back of the socket.  if you dont get voltage to both in position 1 you got another dead switch, or something is up with the lock housing.
the pump should always prime at the 1st click of the key, if not this is probably the issue!

[cняis]

it primes maybe 10% of the time when ign is switched to pos 2. it quite often primes AFTER i've tried starting it.

is this a knackered pump or just a relay problem? i take it i can test the relay #80 from my 1990 spec GTI? (which, as you have just said, will prime EVERY time i turned the key!)