i believe you can replace -some- lights (the lower row) in the dash console by removing the assembly wiuth the speedo/rev counter etc in.
some may be part of the unit, i'm not sure.
i did it on my '96 polo once when the handbrake light went.
its a bit fiddly, i hate taking the dash apart. I believe you also have to be careful of things like the airbag, haynes probably has a good guide in it.
i cant remember what the bulbs are called, they're funny lil twist in ones.
if you can find a guide to replacing them with blue leds it'll also show you how to get the unit out.