Author Topic: Removing the engine  (Read 1279 times)

Offline oakgreengolf

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Removing the engine
« on: 27 January 2008, 17:30 »
need some info on removing the engine of of a car im breaking its an 8v. ive got a hoist so am going upwards ( slam panel is off ).Is there a step by step guide anywhere on here. I want to remove the driveshafts do these just pull out the gear box. ive had them off the hubs recently to do the cvs so am ok that end its just the gearbox side im unsure about. The long drive shaft has a join can i just take this apart???? Any help greatly appreciated.

Offline Diamond Hell

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #1 on: 27 January 2008, 18:34 »
Undo the six twelve-spline bolts on the end of each driveshaft.  If they've been on there from new they might possibly have 6mm allen heads, rather than the 12 spline.

You can unbolt the gear selection linkage at the shaft that goes to the stick in the car.  This will be easier when you've removed the downpipe - 6 17mm headed nuts on the manifold.

The clutch cable detatches relatively easy, as does the accelerator cable.

The electrical connectors all come off relatively easy.  and the loom should pull away from the engine and gearbox as a complete entity.  Be sure to undo all of the earths, including any from the rocker cover area and the king lead from the dizzi. 

After you've removed the top and bottom rad hoses, there's only the two going into the heater to disconnect.

If you've got powersteering it's probably cleanest to unbolt the pump from the motor (if you don't need it) - keeps the fluid in the system.  Otherwise you need to undo the unions on the pump, to leave the hoses etc in the bay.

You've clocked the lifting eyes on the front of the head, haven't you?

The engine and gearbox mounts need undoing as follows:  single 17mm bolt on the front mount (like you hadn't spotted that), then another 17mm headed bolt behind the gearshift mechanism and finally the three 13mm headed bolts around the back of the motor.
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Offline oakgreengolf

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #2 on: 27 January 2008, 18:46 »
Cool im nearly there then ive removed most of the wiring, manifold is off, so is the clutch cable. Its  just the driveshafts im v unsure about so to verify, there are 6 nuts at either end of the drive shaft nearest the gearbox? undo these and the drive shafts will come away engine out job done

Offline Philpy

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #3 on: 27 January 2008, 18:48 »
Yeah just undo the bolts holding the driveshaft into the gearbox. It'll be obvious when you look. Oh and I didnt bother removing the front panel!

Offline c8dhc

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #4 on: 27 January 2008, 19:51 »
When I removed engine when breaking a car we just took all the front end bits off then just lifted + rolled the shell back (was just like a giant wheelbarrow!) I also undid the shocks at the top so just dropped everything out. Made the job alot easier, as could remove other compontents with engine sat on floor in front of us.

Trackday Mk2 GTi 16v

Offline Dragon6

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #5 on: 27 January 2008, 20:06 »
Does anyone know if the subframe on the Corrado is the same as a mk2 golf i would imagine it is as the pic C8dhc has shown could make life a whole lot easier for me..cheers fella  :smiley: as it seems I cant sell my Rado G60 I will be braking it up and putting engine etc into my mk2 and the idea of just removing subframe from each car then bolting the G60 plant back into my mk2 seems a lot less hassle than removing everything sepeately or is it easier said than done??

Offline oakgreengolf

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #6 on: 27 January 2008, 20:18 »
Im not sure on my shocks they are not origional, can i just undo the nut at the top. They won't spring open will they? never removed any before. 

Offline c8dhc

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #7 on: 27 January 2008, 20:21 »
With 2 of us, we had it from running to as shown above in about 2hrs - just depends on how easy nuts come undone - plenty of WD40 every night for a few days before always helps, if not then its a blowlamp/grinder job (When refitting it would be advisable to fit new bolts anyway to aid repairs in future)

You may be able to drop it all out without removing the front end (but for around 30mins work it makes it a whole lot easier)
Trackday Mk2 GTi 16v

Offline c8dhc

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #8 on: 27 January 2008, 20:25 »
Im not sure on my shocks they are not origional, can i just undo the nut at the top. They won't spring open will they? never removed any before. 

There will be a retaining plate/nut underneath for spring so it wont spring off.

Think you just need a recessed spanner (to get down around outer nut) + a big alen key for shock centre (correct me if im wrong)

Alternatively, you could undo shock at bottom - 2 nuts/bolts onto the hub carrier
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Offline Diamond Hell

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Re: Removing the engine
« Reply #9 on: 27 January 2008, 23:06 »
Quote
plenty of WD40 every night for a few days before always helps

No no no - use a proper penetrating fluid, like Plusgas or Double T Fluid - you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.

With you on the last response about the shock tops.  A deep socket with molegrips around it, plus the allen key should allow you to undo this....... provided there is an allen key inset in the shock (cheap ones don't always have them).
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