about to buy - please advise...

[JG911]

From a purchasing position, wait until the last day of the month if you can.  Out of the three dealers I spoke to, nobody was offering much of a deal until the last day of June.  I ended up putting a deposit on a car that I'd seen on the dealers web site, it was a bit of a risk but I knew I could get my deposit back if I didn't ike it when I finally got time to look at it.  I saved about £3K and got a very good finance deal out of it.

Phil

[Luck1ng]

Yep very ture, I looked around and went into most dealers in the south to get a deal on my ed30.

None of them would even give me £50 off!

Went back at the end of the month and got 1k off!

[Bobman]

Hi there, all being well, tomorrow's the big day. Couple of last minute questions:

The Xenons are usually relaible but check the self-leveling operation and the auto headlight sensor function. Both can be problematic.

- how do I check the Xenons self-levelling?
- how do I check the auto-headlight sensor? Presume I find somewhere dark and see if they come on - might be tough in the midday sun! Any tips?

For my part, make sure the car has had annual services on the 'time and distance' regime as opposed to the 'longlife' option. I would not go for any car, let alone a sports hatch, that has only been serviced at 2 years or 20k miles, which is possible on the longlife.

- is switching to 'time and distance' servicing easily done in the showroom, or do I need to allow time for the workshop to do it?

Make sure it has had the recent ECU update, not sure if it affects your model year, but worth asking.

- any more info on the ECU upgrade? what's at stake if I don't have it?

Things to look or listen for, knock from steering rack at parking or reversing speed,( vw warranty issue and Known fault.).

- any more info on the power steering noise - is it a knocking, grinding, quiet/loud (sorry, not too hot on mechanical stuff!)

Thanks a lot (again!) everyone, much appreciated.

cheers! 

[Cass]

Xenons - simple check at start up. Switch on lights and look for self levelling action of lamps with car facing a wall. They will auto-adjust and self-set at the appropriate level. Auto headlamps operation can be tested during daylight and dusk running or when driven through a tunnel or when parked in the shade. Lights come on automatically at high speed and should go off at below 40ish after 2 mins or so.

Time/Distance - Simple function for dealer to set the car up and to record on their system. Should be done in seconds and prior to delivery.

ECU upgrade - dealer should advise and make any necessary upgrade. If the car is new it should have the most up to date software.

Power steering - faulty racks were evident on early 2005 cars and current model should not be a problem. Racks will groan on full/partial lock. Also check for some steering play at the 12 o'clock position when driving in a straight line - eg dual carriageway driving, not urban/street driving. I have this issue and the issue will be checked out when the car is going in for service next week.

Don't worry - enjoy

Cass

[Phil mcavity]

and some pic's wont go a miss bobman when you collect her. highest priority to post pics on here before blitzin'it down the road 

[Bobman]

Thanks Cass, great advice.

Back from the dealer - good news and bad: did a deal (money off, 6 months tax, full tank) and paid my money... but the car's not ready. Loaned me a Polo GTI until they drop the Golf off on Friday.

(re the Polo, thought it would remind me of my old Clio but, although quick in 1st and 2nd, not much fun - and v. thirsty!).

So, assuming you're all interested! - DSG, paddles, 5 door, 2004, 33,000 miles, Tornado red, Sat Nav/MFSW/Hi-line, leather, winter pack, electrically folding mirrors, 17" Monzas, Xenons, 6x CD and armrest, cruise control - and 6m tax!

Delay is due to some bits being done: full service, 2x new tyres (other 2 are near new), 4x pads and disks, gearbox oil and filter change, break fluid change. They're servicing the aircon, confirming no PAS/rack noise and lights sensor/levelling are working. Sorting the ECU update and trying to blag me the latest sat nav DVD... which is nice.

Apart from the delay, am well chuffed (particularly as another dealer - with poorer service - offered a similar spec and mileage car - albeit a 2006 - for 5.5k more). Service has been spot on: taking it off the market with a no-questions deposit from me (apparently lots of calls about it since!), bringing it from Oxfordshire to London to show to me at work, lending me the Polo, and finally dropping it off in London on Friday.

They also fielded all my questions with a smile. Very pleased with them and, assuming they do everything they've promised, I can give them a glowing reference in the 'the good guys' thread.

Regards the tyres: great to have what are essentially 4 new ones, but the consensus on the board seems to be that Dunlop ain't good - have got Dunlop SP Sport 01As (225/45Z R17).

- do these perform very differently to the widely slated Dunlop Sport Maxx's (as run by you Cass?)?
- how do you assess tyre performance? (I read a thread about instability at speed - best avoid that!)
- if I invested in Michelin Pilot Sport SP2's, would I even notice the difference?

FYI I only a do few '000 miles per year, all conditions, rarely very fully loaded car, so need an all rounder: trust in wet and dry, stable at motorway speeds, safe on twisty B-roads, not too loud!

You may have gathered, I'm not a real tyre buff, so feel feel to explain this in very basic terms!

cheers

[Cass]

Well done Bob sounds like you got a sound deal there and VERY good service

Yes, I have the Dunlop Sport Maxx tyres (18") and I have to say that apart from the excessive road noise (from £1k miles), I have no real issue with them. Good in dry or wet. I am not hard on my tyres and I have used mostly Pirelli P Zeros previously. I have driven the car at speed and not noticed any instability issues. I'll rotate my tyres so the wear evens out and when I come to replace them I'll probably give the Michelins a go. Can't really comment on any other brands but my Audi TT had Dunlops and the Boxster had the Pirelli's.

Cass

[Bobman]

Thanks again Cass, I'm sure tyre choice is all a bit like child care - you kind of have to work it out for yourself.

And, also like kids, once you've made your choice, there's no going back...! at least for quite a few '000 miles anyway... (if anyone from social services is listening, I appreciate that's where the analogy falls down!) 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Delay is due to some bits being done: full service,

Ask them EXACTLY what spec of oil they are using.  Also, double check the service history.  If was previously on LongLife, then I'd personally consider avoiding the car, but as you have already paid your deposit, you're now stuck with it.

2x new tyres (other 2 are near new), 4x pads and disks,

Hmmm . . . sounds like it has lead a hard life, if it needs new discs and pads all round after just 33k.

Service has been spot on: taking it off the market with a no-questions deposit from me

Erm, they are legally meant to "take it off the market" once they have a deposit and contract to purchase (which is what the deposit was specifically paid for).

Regards the tyres: great to have what are essentially 4 new ones, but the consensus on the board seems to be that Dunlop ain't good - have got Dunlop SP Sport 01As (225/45Z R17).

- do these perform very differently to the widely slated Dunlop Sport Maxx's (as run by you Cass?)?

Dunlop arn't horrendously shyte - but there are much better, and also much worse tyres available.

- how do you assess tyre performance? (I read a thread about instability at speed - best avoid that!)

For a "high performance" tyre, which the GTI chassis deserves, then it is simply classed as grip, grip, grip! 

Seriously, tyres are a compromise, but all tyres should be able to support the weight of the vehicle.  Unfortunately, there are many reports of the SportMaxx suffering from static deformation - not good, as that indicates a weak carcass.

The SportMaxx also suffer from aquaplaning even with pleanty of remaining tread.  This is a known characteristic of directional tyres (which is why the major tyre manufacturers are going to assymetric).  The SP Sport 01A are a bit of a "bastard child" compromise, in that half the tyre is based on the SportMaxx, and the other half is some assymetric "hash".

- if I invested in Michelin Pilot Sport SP2's, would I even notice the difference?

Oh, abso-fookin-lutely . . . . but not if you drove like a Granny!

My own GTI came with SportMaxx as standard, and they are a fairly poor attempt at a high performance tyre.  I have now worn an axle pair, and replaced them with PS2s, and you can really notice the difference.  Under hard cornering, the end with the Dunlops jumps and skips sideways over imperfections (potholes, cats eyes, white lines, overbanding, ironworks), whereas the end with the Michelins is absolutely rock steady.  The PS2s run at a lower pressure, and are also much more comfortable than the Dunlops.  The PS2 wet weather performance advantage over the Dunlops is so dramatic, I'm actually considering binning the Dunlops with 5mm of tread still remaining!  (Won't be a first time I've ditched nearly new tyres)

FYI I only a do few '000 miles per year, all conditions, rarely very fully loaded car, so need an all rounder: trust in wet and dry, stable at motorway speeds, safe on twisty B-roads, not too loud!

If you like pushing your car hard, and wish to rely on a no-compromise tyre, then the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 is the ONLY tyre to have.

However, as you are on 17" rims, (and the PS2 isn't available in that size), then you should strongly consider the Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2.