Simon is correct, in theory the 8v lumps are non-interferance, but a heavily skimmed head and/or high lift cam can make it so
Its still good practice to turn the engine over a few times before you start, not only to check for valve contact but also so you can re-check the belt tension and your timing marks
Also a couple of other things:
1. Dont need to remove the PAS pulley simon
2. A gear puller helps to remove stuck crank pulley(s), some pulleys also have threads in, you can thread the crank pulley bolts into these to slowly force the pulley off.
3. Sometimes you need to remove the waterpump pulley, sometimes not. It seems on 90 spec cars you don't
Waterpump pliers and a friend make short work of em tho.
4. The dizzy will spin freely with the belt loosened, this caught me out on my 1st head swap
5. Remember to turn the tensioner the right way, you need to twist it
clockwise, otherwise the lower belt cover wont go on. (yep I've done that too
)
6. An easy way to tigten the tensioner without a tool, fit an allen key into one of the holes in the tensioner and brace it against your 15mm socket.
7. I have an easy method for lining up the crank & cam marks as well as setting the correct tension:
Fit the belt & tensioner loosley, lining up the marks
Next use a spanner on the cam pulley bolt to turn the cam slowly counter clockwise, untill the belt can just be twisted 90 degrees by hand.
If the cam & crank marks dont line up, move the belt a tooth then try again
When the marks line up tighten up the tensioner and turn the engine over a few times, then recheck tension.
