My expensive 16v - some advice please!

[myoptika]

Well, after buying my first Golf GTI a month ago, I took it into a VW specialist in Nottingham for a service, and ended up £720 lighter in the pocket! It turned out although the bodywork and engine were fantastic, it had been bodged through its MOT by applying loads of filler to the underside to hide all the corrosion. It also needed a new front engine mounting and rear brake pipes.

Anyway, now it's shipshape, there are a few niggly things that are annoying me and I want some advice on how easy (or not) it is to fix them.

1) The rear windscreen heater doesn't work. The light comes on the dash when you flick the switch, but nothing happens. Is this a simple connection issue, or would it be a complete pain in the arse?
2) The bulb behind my rev counter/fuel gauge doesn't work. The other bulb behind the speedo gives just enough illumination to make them viewable in the dark, but it's not ideal. Is it easy to take the dash out to get to the bulbs?
3) the interior part of the driver's door is coming away from the bodywork. I could glue it back on, but what's the best plan?
4) From cold, when idling the revs go from slightly above 1000rpm to slightly below. It's hardly noticeable, but does it need a good tuning?
5) Every now and again the temperature gauge drops to cold, even when the car has been running for a while - again is this just a connection issue?
6) RUST - there's some slight corrosion near the 'Golf GTI 16v' badges on the rear, and also I can tell there's some bubbling just underneath the rear windscreen where the wiper sits. How costly would this be to get repaired?
7) Swirling! The last owner was good enough to keep it waxed, as the rain just beads and drops off nicely, but it's a bit swirly. What's the best way of buffing this out? Any products to recommend?

That should do it for now. I'm sure I'll have some more questions again soon!

*Edit* I forgot number The MFA trip computer thing doesn't seem to work at all. Can it be salvaged?

[Mart8V]

A couple of these I can help you with:

2- The whole part of the dash unscrews, and the clocks come out.  You can get the bulbs from most motor factors, but take in an old one to check that the mounting lugs are the same.  Cost about £1 each.  I think there is a sticky in the "Maintenance" section at the top of the topics list on this.  PM me if you can't find it.

3- Door cards will warp if the waterproof seals have gone on the inside of the doors.  (I assume this is what you mean by interior part of the door).  Take all the inner fittings (window handle, door pull etc) off, unscrew the four mounting screws at the side, slide off the surround to the opening handle and then gently prise off the door card from the top.  You can then check the situation with the inner skin.  Duck tape is often sufficient to repair, but if not some strong polythene from a DIY place etc cut to size will do nicely.  Whike you're at it check that the drain holes are clear in the bottom of the door.

As for the others, not had those emerge yet.

Good luck!

[myoptika]

Thanks for your help. I reckon I'll be able to sort out the dash bulbs. Not so sure about the door as it seems a bit complicated.

[rowlers]

other way round mate, door cards piece of pee to sort, bulbs more involved!
check the maintenance section and matey-matey.com

[Mart8V]

It really isn't!  If you can do the dash you can do the door with your eyes shut.  Undo seven screws, remove the door panel, and all will be there to see.

If the panel is badly warped there are plenty of them in scrap yards all over the place, or drop a "wanted" ad into the parts section.

Re the MFA, it may be the stalk, or possibly the clocks.  Does the digital clock work?

[oak16]

Hi mate - Are you a friend of Adam by any chance.
Your cars 'issues' sound familiar - what garage did you use in notts and what exactly did they do for £700 if you dnt mind me asking??

[myoptika]

Oak16: Yeah I'm a friend of Adam's!

I used Bob Sherwin in Nottingham and they did 5 hours of welding as there was loads of filler and rust on the bottom of the car which I didn't see before, front engine mounting, rear brake pipes and a full service... do you think that's over the odds?

Mart8v: ok, reading it back it does seem that the dash is a bit more complicated. The digital clock doesn't work at all, it comes up with random horizontal and vertical lines.

[Mart8V]

In which case your MFA won't work.  You will need to replace the clocks when you take the old ones out- try ebay for a spare set.  What year is your car?  If you have the hazard switch on the dash you will need a two pin set, or if it is on the steering column it will be a one pin.  Best to take of the steering wheel before you start (21mm socket, I think) and then just follow the Haynes guide.

You should, if careful, be able to retain your speedo and correct mileage by swapping it between the units.

[monzablue16v]

Before you go removing and swapping the clocks pull the fuse from the MFA I can't remember which number it is that might cure the MFA.
16v's always idle funny it's just something they do! never heard a valver sat on a steady idle they are always twitching waiting to go!

[Mk2George]

Regarding the MFA, I would check that you have the correct battery fitted to the car that is recommended as I had the same problem when I bought mine and it turned out the battery was underpowered and/or knackered, so it might be worth checking as I had the random lines on the screen thing but its been A+ since I got a new battery that was the spec for the car, might be worth a shot