Right, this is something I tackled the other day! Whichevcer method you go for, coat all the nuts/studs with a ton of plus gas or whatever a couple of hours before you start

You have 2 choices, either take the 8 bolts holding the manifold to the head, or the 6 bolts holding the manifold to the downpipe. If you go for the 6 downpipe bolts, be aware you'll probably shear one or more of the studs! The 3 closest to the engine are easy to get to from underneath once you unbolt the driveshaft heatshield from the engine, the 2 on the outside near the bulkhead are tricky but doable from here. The middle one is a bit of a pain, as there aint much room. What we did was remove all the zaust mounting rubbers, and pull the head forward (the head was unbolted from the block) and use a good spanner with a length of tube on it, that did the trick. In your case you can pull the whole engine forward.
If you decide to remove the manifold from the head (in this situation this is what I would do) Then remove the inlet manifold first to give you room then take off the manifold nuts. use a good 6 point socket, and make sure you hammer it on fully, go steady and most if not all of the nuts will come out complete with the studs attached. If you are unlucky and one rounds off, get a dremmel on it and chop the nut in half. Then get 2 nuts on the stud & remove it. If you're very unlucky and the stud shears off, chop it down as glose to the head as you can, then drill it out starting with a fine drill bit & work your way up, then use a tap & die to clean out the thread.
Then all you need is 8 fresh studs from VW, and a set of copper nuts. Put it together with plenty of copper grease too

The third option is to unbolt the entire subframe, remove the front shocks, stering U/J & zaust mounts and roll the engine forward on the front wheels. The danger with this is you might shear off the subframe captive nuts, which require cutting holes in the footwell and welding back into place
