Any ideas???

[illumin]

Fixed the MFA vacuum pipe and all was well until the car heated up (oil temp around 94 degrees), then my engine trying to stall/oil light flashing problem came back again!

So far I have checked all the vacuum pipes and replaced a couple that looked a bit worn out, renewed the blue coolant sensor. The ISV appears to be working (hums/vibrates when ignition on), beginning to run out of ideas tbh..........

The engine tries to stall when I am braking/depressing the clutch - at the same time as the engine is struggling the oil light flashes on. The two have to be connected in some way, but I just can't figure it out.

Somebody suggested an engine flush/new oil change as something may be occasionally clogging the oil pump. Question is would this be causing the engine to try and stall when slowing/depressing the clutch? Could the "blockage" only occur when the engine is decelerating? Btw, this only seems to happen once the car has warmed up and the oil would therefore be thinner...........

Any ideas, otherwise I think it will be time for a new car in the new year! 

[takethefifth]

Sounds like a nasty one! If you had an oil blockage problem then yes it would cause your warning lights to come on as the pressure dropped but this should have no impact on your fuelling or spark which would cause it to stall.

Not really sure what to suggest - plugs, leads, dizzy, coil, hall sender, injectors, throttle switches, fuel pumps, ecu?

If its only when you are slowing would it be happening only when the engine 'overruns' and if so does anyone know which bits are brought to life when this happens?

[rubjonny]

Check the idle switch clicks when the throttle is closed, and check the connector stops passing current

[rowlers]

Had this problem, mine was cured with a new ISV control module, £6 of ebay!

[illumin]

Check the idle switch clicks when the throttle is closed, and check the connector stops passing current

Whereabouts is the idle switch? I presume you mean check the connector for the idle switch - how do I check the current? Sorry for the dumb questions..................

[rubjonny]

The idle switch is under the throttle body, can only get to it by taking off the inlet boot.
The connector is round the back, follow the wires from the switches

[illumin]

Cheers for that - will check it tomorrow if it has stopped snowing! 

[Mr Blue]

if the idle switch is fine. slightly adjust the idle by the idle screw and then go for another test rag run

[rubjonny]

If you're going to fiddle with the idle, do it properly:
1. Get the engine up to temp, at least 80 degrees on the MFA oil temp display
2. Turn the engine off and remove & plug the intake side of the breather pipe between the rocker cover & air intake
3. Hold the MFA button in and turn the ignition on, off and on again, then start the car.  This puts the MFA into a 'secret' mode.  Put the MFA switch to setting 2 and press the button till you get the digital rev counter, position 2 I think
4. Unplug the blue temp sender and rev the engine cleanly over 3k rpm 3 times, letting it return to idle between each rev.
5. Check the rev display, adjust the idle with the idle screw on the throttle body to about 850-900 rpm. Clockwise to decrease, anticlockwise to increase
6. If you have a CO meter, block off one of the talipipes (i use a load of duck tape) and shove the probe up the pipe.  Follow the manufacturers instructions, and set the CO to about 1.8ish using the allen screw on the MAF, clockwise to increase, anticlockwise to decrease.
If you don't have a CO meter, turn the screw in until the engine starts to sound rough then back it out gradually till the idle sounds smooth & even.  Check the aerial or bonnet stay for vibration, you want it smooth as possible.  This will get you close, then take it to a garage to get it set properly
7. Reset the idle to 850-900 rpm if it has changed, and adjust the CO accordingly, repeat till you get about 1.8 at 850ish rpm

[illumin]

Thanks for the advice, really appreciated. I just wish I had bought a car with a simpler engine! These digifants seem to have loads of sensors/switches just waiting to go wrong!

Just took the car out for a spin and it seems to be getting worse (or whatever is causing the problem doesnt like -4 degrees outside temp!). I can't see that it is the blue temp sensor as it has had four new ones in it now, surely they can't all be faulty.............

The ISV seems to be another prime suspect - mine hums/vibrates but could it still be faulty? It is definitely not keeping the revs up as it should be doing.......... I have another one that I got from the scrappy, might stick that on and see if it makes a difference.......

Not sure I fancy trying to adjust the idle, but someone did tell me that the idle screw can get clogged up with dirt which causes running problems................

Tbh feel like giving up on the car and letting somebody else have all these problems lol!