Madone - Mk1 Golf Cab GTI - 'BLACK SOY'

[Madone_si]

A little update, here are the new Bosch Fuel injectors... 







Old and New...


and I bought off ebay a tool to adjust the idle mixture - 3mm Hex wench for 20pence - bargain...

[Madone_si]

I needed to find out some details on injector inserts as 2 from the head where broken, so needed to replace them. So I thought I would look through my books this evening to find out a little more....

My collection of VW books!!




No details in them just one picture Even been on vagcat.com and still can't find details on this....

Might just have to call VW tomorrow instead and ask them  :banghead:

Anyone else know where to look? - if you do please PM me. 

[Madone_si]

So today I had to clear out the garage due to family member moving house. Being the nice person I am, I am storing some crap for them, so not alot of work today on the engine, just clean up of Throttle body..

Alot of crap outside as well as inside the throttle body


Look at the crap inside?!


Clean up a little before strip down.


Then strip down time


A lot of cleaning up and some paint


Will be rebuilding throttle body tomorrow, so another item completed.

Will be picking up the head on monday as well  Bottom end is stripped down now and will be painted later this week, the bores had hardly any wear on them, so just new piston rings, big end bearings and all new gaskets, more on that later.


So here is the injector inserts that where broken, I only required lower parts of all the inserts in the end, so ordered these from VW, only few pounds each, picking them up as well on monday with a few other bits.

[Madone_si]

So picked up new Injector inserts - I ordered top and bottom ones in the end as they were not that much anyhow.





I replaced the cam oil seal





Old and new cam oil seal



I also made a thread cleaning tool for the injector inserts from one of my old top injector inserts - works a treat..



A few parts painted and ready



A few more bits in the box as well



The Head is all ready now... will start put parts back together tomorrow







Also throttle body is now all rebuild and ready to go back on the inlet manifold



More soon

[Madone_si]

So lots of work on the bottom end - 1.8 DX Engine rebuild... I'm waiting on the piston rings to turn up, but this little gasket kit is wanting to be installed...



So I stripped the bottom end down a while ago and took pictures so here is the progress...

Engine in garage... (you can see downpipe as well, thats up for sale!)


So time to get it on the bench and start taking off the flywheel. You can undo the flywheel
by using 9mm socket in racket (there are a few bolts to undo!!) Clamp the flywheel to prevent it from
turning and start releasing each bolt half a turn at a time until all are slack, then take
all of them out.

NOTE: When you pull the flywheel off, the friction disc will come away as well, so be
careful - see picture below. You now need to with a screw driver release the release plate
ring, which the release plate will more than likely fail out.



Flywheel off, release plate off too



Now need to take off the pressure plate, which is held to the crankshaft flange by six blots
(see picture above) These bolts are fitted using a thread locking compound, so these will be
difficult to remove as they were tightened to a high torque. Now to properly take the bolts
off you need a clamp to hold the pressure plate in place, I made one using a spanner, or you
can put a 19mm spanner on the other end of the crankshaft pulley and then undo the bolts.
Now have pressure plate off (as below)



Now need to take the gearbox plate off, by un-bolting the 3 bolts. You can now unscrew the
bolts holding the end crankshaft oil seal plate in place. NOTE: There are two bolts also from
the bottom of the seal plate to remove. I used a small screw drive to lever off the seal
plate once all bolts are removed. I then took off the green gasket from production I
took this off carefully as it was in excellent condition.





Now time to strip the timing belt end



As seen in the above picture, I removed the inner timing belt cover and I then removed the
front pulley with 19mm socket, I used a large screw driver inbetween the pully against the
block to lock the pulley while I unscrew the bolt. Now can undo the 2 x 13mm bolts and pull
the intermediate shaft out.(see picture below of shaft - sorry its the only picture I have of
the shaft out)



Now time to take the sump off the block. Do this by unbolting the mainly 10mm bolts. Remove
the sump off (see below picture)



Now see the bottom end of the engine (see below picture) again you will see the sump gasket,
again my is green from production and in great condition. I carefully took this off.





I now need to take the nut holding the timing belt drive pulley off. This is a real (****) to
get off, I mean a real so and so to shift. I put a block of wood between the crank and
block and using a very long lever.... the bolt will undo in the end!!!



I can now unscrew the bolts holding the oil seal plate in place. most of them are 10mm, but
one is 13mm/16mm.

I now removed the dipstick outer shaft with a bolt and hammer it out.

I then removed the oil pump, this can be done by using 13mm socket, to remove 2 bolts. The
oil bump will now slide straight out. Have a look in the oil pump pickup for debris (I had alot of crap in mine)

[Madone_si]

So its time to remove the pistons.

NOTE: Please take care here as you need to know exactly which piston goes into which bore and
which way, so its best to remove each piston at a time, take you time doing this.

1. You need to Undo the big end rods using a 14mm socket.
2. To remove the end caps, you need to loose them by tap them using a rubber/nylon mallet on the rod bolts.
3. Now use the hammer to tap each piston out of the bores.
4. Now put the cap back on the mating conrod making sure that the aligning marks line up. It is absolutely essential that each cap fits the correct conrol and is fitted the right way around. then put the nuts back on as well.
5. Repeat 1-4 for each piston. I put each piston on the bench and marked them each to know which one goes into which bore.





Pistons out of block...


So time to remove the main bearing caps to remove the crank.

1. Undo the bearing cap bolts using a mm socket and racket. These will be tight. The cap
itself will also do its best to stay put.

Here is a hint for you , place two of the bolts back in to the top of the cap and use tme to lever the cap while you tap it with a hammer,
working it to and fro, until you can lift it away from the block.

2. Repeat for each bearing cap.

Note: The middle/centre main bearing cap has thrust washers on each side of it. On some
models like mine the thrust washers are an integral part of the shell itself and you won't
see separate thrust washers.





All the internals of the block on the floor (I used some spare old clothes I found in the garage to put them on, the other half's I think!! hehehe)



I checked the bores for wear and there was no wear but then again with only 68k on the engine I'm not surprised.
So with the head now stripped down, its time to give it a clean inside and out. Here is the tools I used. What I didn't take picture of my Clarke large floor standing Parts Washer, made life alot easier for me, plus also used the compressor to blow out off water from head.



I did a bit of research on what options to clean and spray engine parts, here is the options I listed.

Option1
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using hot power washer, wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Paint direct using Hammerite smooth (colours as you require?!)

Option2
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using hot power washer, wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Paint/Spray on POR15 Metal Ready
3. Paint on POR15
4. Paint on enamel top coat (colours as you require?!)

Option3
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using hot power washer, wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Paint/Brush on Zinga
3. Paint on Etch Primer
4. Paint on undercoat
5. Paint on enamel Top coat (colours as you require?!)

Option4
1. Clean up all parts remove any rust or paint (using Wire Brush in drill and Deox C)
2. Leave the parts as natural look for!!!!!!! hehe

Useful sites I found:

http://www.hammerite.com/
http://www.por15.com
http://www.zinga.co.uk
http://www.frost.co.uk (useful site)
http://www.enginewise.co.uk - did not response to phone call or emails
http://www.rustguardian.co.uk
http://www.rust.co.uk


For this engine rebuild, I have gone for option 2, but I am also doing option3 on another complete engine next month (April07)

So with alot of cleaning this is how the block turned out.







I then sprayed the whole block in metal ready.


I then prepared the block ready for POR15 paint.



And with POR15 painted on - the end result



I will get more pictures up once all is dry

Here is picture of the engine bay now...


I will start cleaning up the bay later, I'm going to respray the bay area so its nice and fresh.

[Madone_si]

So here is a picture of the engine block with the head on it just for fun?!



So I've managed to stay in the country until the 30th of March, so full on work each day on the car and working in the evening to be in sync with my work in the US.... long days but I'm having fun!!

So I forgot about a few bits I was meant to get ready to go to the powder coaters, so I had to give a few items a quick clean today





I also ordered the following items today as well 

1. Audi, VW Lower Timing Belt Cover
2. VW Oil Pan German 5 Quart New A1 (this is for my other engine)
3. VW Oil Pan Baffle & Windage Tray OEM New A1
4. Seal ring, lower fuel injector holder. 16.5 x 19.5 x 1.5mm
5. CIS Rubber (goes into Battery tray)
6. VW CLUTCH BOLT KIT Flywheel & Pressure Plate
7. Head Bolts
8. DIP Stick Top
9. Coolant hose - From pump to flange on head
10. Coolant hose - From radiator to expansion tank, cloth covered rubber hose. two new hose clamps shown below, the original clamps are not re-useable
10a Hose clamp, 13-14mm size range
11. Timing belt
12. Fan belt
13. Oil filter
14. Oil 10/40
15. 020 Clutch Alignment Tool

I also cleared the work bench of all un-wanted items, so I can start rebuilding the head and bottom end this week, I really wanted to start today, but I want to be able to take notes and pictures of each stage.

I also removed the old engine mounts from the left and right side engine brackets, all I can say is what a nightmare. You have to drill out the middle parts of the mounts and then with a small hack saw make two cuts into the metal part of the mount and then mount will then fall out of the bracket. All and all two mounts - 60 minutes later, can now press in, the new engine mounts into the brackets (I've yet to get mounts pressed in) - another job done.

[Madone_si]

Had fun just before the weekend, I had a slight accident with a grinder and my arm, which took off a few layers of skin, very lucky person to be honest, quick check up and a few metal bits taken out of my arm and back to the job at hand.....

So over the weekend I finish off the gearbox painting...

I took my spray guns into action



and here is the results... all the little parts are back on the gearbox now as well as the Starter motor!



I picked up a few parts from the power coaters today, pickup the rest tomorrow... one pic to see the results... - very happy 



Few other parts which where painted over the weekend



Now the close up of the Throttle body completed







and I painted my new water bottle cap - that OEM look - BLACK!!!



My next update will be the stage by stage update of putting the engine back together and all together before I put back into the engine bay... its coming along nicely now

[Madone_si]

It was like Christmas today - parts from powder coaters turned up

All wrapped ready for me to be like a kid again on christmas morning?!!!


The end result - the finish on every thing is A1.


Even got clips painted as well.... (two in pic where new clips - silver ones)



Well I've got everything back now... except this..... hopefully will be here by weekend, so I can complete the engine build....

[Madone_si]

Here is a little update... (I'm in the middle of writing up the step by step rebuild doc at the moment, its taking a tad longer than I thought, but it will be useful for all.. (The old man will be putting the rest of the engine back together for me and then engine will be left in garage until I pop back and to put in the car... going back to USA on wednesday ) but back in Mid May07 for European holiday! hehe)

Engine built - 90%


Inlet Manifold




Rad