Stone chip rusting repair

[greencode]

I have a few stone chips on the front lip of the roof just above the windscreen. The worst is the one I've pictured, around 5mm. There are about 4 others about 1-2mm. Just wondering how I should deal with this and get this fixed?

[SRGTD]

The stone chip in your picture looks quite old judging by the pitting of the exposed metal. In the last picture, you can see corrosion has also spread beyond the area where the paint has been removed as there’s blistering under the surrounding paint.

If it was a new stone chip it would be easy to do a DIY repair (paint touch up pen or a kit like those sold by Chipex or Dr Colourchip), especially as Pure White is an easy colour to match and any slight differences if finish wouldn’t really be noticeable. However, the corrosion has spread under the surrounding paintwork, so the repair needs to extend beyond the area of exposed metal - I’d therefore probably get it SMART repaired. There are quite a few independent SMART repairers so it’s not necessary to just use the nearest Chips Away franchise.

IMHO it’s good practice to include looking for and repairing any new stone chips as part of your car cleaning regime. As I usually clean my car every couple of weeks or so, any new stone chips don’t really get a chance to take hold. The first thing I always buy for any new car is touch up paint (IMHO much more important than the seemingly ever popular sill scuff plates or similar ‘must have’ accessories) as it’s always a question of when - rather than if - the first stone chip will appear and need to be repaired.

Hope you get it sorted quickly.

[greencode]

@SRGTD. Thanks for this. Yeah, I’ve been neglecting my R recently due to spending all my time doing up the house. Back on it now and want to get these things sorted. I did previously sort this one out with Chipex, along with a load of chips on the bonnet, but I didn’t actually realise how bad this one was until I cleaned that area today. I’ll have a look at SMART repair and take it from there.

[willni]

@SRGTD. Thanks for this. Yeah, I’ve been neglecting my R recently due to spending all my time doing up the house. Back on it now and want to get these things sorted. I did previously sort this one out with Chipex, along with a load of chips on the bonnet, but I didn’t actually realise how bad this one was until I cleaned that area today. I’ll have a look at SMART repair and take it from there.

When fixing chips yourself when it's down to the metal, best procedure you should also apply a bit of Hammerite Kurust or similar product as a base to remove rust prior to fixing.

[greencode]

@SRGTD. Thanks for this. Yeah, I’ve been neglecting my R recently due to spending all my time doing up the house. Back on it now and want to get these things sorted. I did previously sort this one out with Chipex, along with a load of chips on the bonnet, but I didn’t actually realise how bad this one was until I cleaned that area today. I’ll have a look at SMART repair and take it from there.

When fixing chips yourself when it's down to the metal, best procedure you should also apply a bit of Hammerite Kurust or similar product as a base to remove rust prior to fixing.

Thanks for this. I think I’d sooner get somebody to fix this for me. I don’t trust myself messing it up!!

[Adam T7]

Given the colour a match would be easy, as Willni says, fine grade Wet and Dry (220+ grit), Kurust, primer, very fine Wet &  Dry (1000+ Grit), top coat, lacquer.
I use artist paint brushes vs. the brushes in the kit bottles and thin the top coat paint a bit with cellulose thinners and give a few thin coats rather than one thick one.

[willni]

I personally prefer to use this to drop paint in although if you could get a larger dropper it would be much better, but it does to a neat job on small chips.

I must actually try a dry fountain pen...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loew-Cornell-Painting-Other-Multicoloured-22-06/dp/B004YZXV8U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

[greencode]

Given the colour a match would be easy, as Willni says, fine grade Wet and Dry (220+ grit), Kurust, primer, very fine Wet &  Dry (1000+ Grit), top coat, lacquer.
I use artist paint brushes vs. the brushes in the kit bottles and thin the top coat paint a bit with cellulose thinners and give a few thin coats rather than one thick one.

Hi. I've decided to go ahead and do this myself - I'm a little nervous, as I've never done this before (always scares me that you're using sandpaper on your car!!). I've had a look at a few videos but just wanted to know

- I'm presuming I need to remove whatever is loose and flaking i.e. the area that's slightly bubbling on the photos?
- Then use Wet & Dry 220 to sand the area
- Use Kurust
- Use Primer (Is this just regular primer or anything special? I don't have any so need to buy some)
- Wet & Dry 1000
- Top Coat (Can I use the Chipex paint - which is the correct colour code - or do I need something different?)
- Lacquer (I've not got any of this, again is this anything special or regular clear lacquer?)
- Compound polish with buffing sponge on drill?

Thanks for any help with this.

[Adam T7]

That’s pretty much it.

Primer needs suitable for cars.
Correct code Chipex should be fine.
Lacquer suitable for cars.

Halfords will have pretty much everything you need.

Take your time and ensure sufficient time between stages to let the paints dry properly.
Good luck👍

[greencode]

That’s pretty much it.

Primer needs suitable for cars.
Correct code Chipex should be fine.
Lacquer suitable for cars.

Halfords will have pretty much everything you need.

Take your time and ensure sufficient time between stages to let the paints dry properly.
Good luck👍

Thanks! Looking at the Primer - that comes in cans. I presume I just spray a bit into something so I can paint that on rather than using the spray.

And this may sound stupid but should I use White or Grey primer for the my White Golf?